Raist11
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Re: Wrangler TJ
vjstangelo wrote: I was curious if anyone was towing 4-down a TJ Wrangler with the venerable 4.0L Strait 6 (automatic). Any thoughts comments appreciated. Thanks, Vince I can say this, we tow a '00 Jeep TJ Sport 4 down. My father-in-law towed a 2009..ish Honda CRV ( I really can't remember the year). He had to go through a ritual every time he wanted to tow the thing. I can't ever remember the sequence he had to go through. I just pull up, hook up, put the transfercase in Neutral and the tranny in 5th. My ignition is botched or something, so I can turn the key to unlock the steering and pull the key out. Go figure, not sure how that works. That said, when we get older we'll probably want something easier to get in and out of, but for now it's awesome.476Views0likes0CommentsRe: dumb newby dumb question
RE_Todd wrote: My 2016 Edge AWD is 4 down only. I owned a 2010 Edge AWD, it was not towable 4 down. I read somewhere that in like 2011 or after there was some change made that made it possible though. So for the OP, make sure you confirm that your Edge is able to be towed in the configuration that you're looking at. Information can be misread or wrong so be sure to thoroughly check different sources. There are methods out there to modify vehicles so they can be towed 4 down as well.417Views0likes0CommentsRe: 7 way plug issue - R turn and brake
DrewE wrote: It could just be a loose or broken wire etc. for the right turn/brake light line, presumably on the tow vehicle side of things. If the Triple E has separate turn signal and brake lights there's some sort of a converter or other circuit to translate the signals for the trailer connector; that could conceivably also be bad/malfunctioning. I would hunt for a bad connection first, though. Yep, looks like this was it. At the junction box the wire coming out of the adapter had a crack.340Views0likes0CommentsRe: 7 way plug issue - R turn and brake
Well so far it looks like they arent fused seperate. But the manual only includes diagram for GM fuse box and says to refer to chassis manual for Ford, which I dont have. Looking online it seems they arent though. Thanks for the 7 way diagram, I was actually looking at that one online earlier.340Views0likes0Comments7 way plug issue - R turn and brake
Good morning, hoping for some tips on this issue. Its an old 1990 Triple E and I am towing my Jeep behind. Plugging in the lights I only get left turn and brake, no right side at all. I even tried my magnetic set of lights with the same problem. I assume it wouldnt be a ground issue because the left side works fine and there is only one ground blade in a seven way plug. The seven way plug looks okay.. but what am I missing here? Thanks for any input. Sorry if this reads like ****. I'm typing this on my phone so not the best method for myself.1.8KViews0likes9CommentsRe: tread pattern
Hikerdogs wrote: Generally a more aggressive tread pattern also means deeper tread and a heavier carcass. Which in turn translates to generating more heat. Heat is the enemy of tires. The hotter they get the faster the tread wears and the more likely you are to have sidewall problems. Look at the tires on trucks running down the highway. About the only time you see aggressive treads is either in the winter months for snow, or when the tread is worn to the point they're just using up what's left before replacing them. If you're going to spend most of the time at low speed off the pavement they'll probably last for a while. However if most of your miles are highway miles at highway speeds you can expect them to last about half as long as the normal all position tread tires. I had never heard this before. I was always told that different tires wearing faster than others was due to the difference in the compound of the tire (harder or softer). Think of it as rubbing a rock against a brick wall, or a chocolate cake, which breaks down quicker? I was also told that the reason some aggressive tires break down faster is because the gaps between lugs allow more movement, causing them to wear quicker. But this is just what they say at the Tire shops. Honestly, I've had aggressive mud tires last as long as a passenger car tire. As a few have mentioned there is one major downside to an aggressive tire.. MPG. A heavier more aggressive tire will reduce your gas mileage. And no, I don't see any chance of your motorhome "floating" instead of digging in, regardless of tire tread.. typically motorhomes are pretty **** heavy.320Views0likes0CommentsRe: Class A Motorhome Wont Start!
MeganRV wrote: Thank you for some all of your advice. I am an Aircraft Mechanic/ Avionics I know how stuff works I understand power and how to trouble shoot. I stated in my first post im confused of what everyone is saying. My first thought is simple straight to the power and grounds. Then Im gonna work from there. i just need advice to help work this out while i Wait ps I did try the emery button pressed it in to see what happened and yes it will try to crank but to weak. Well you shouldn't have any issues figuring this out. As for your chassis (starter) battery being dead, it's simple automotive troubleshooting. You have a new battery so it's not that (possible but not likely). You have something draining the battery, should be a simple hunt for you. I bet there's fewer wires in that motorhome than an airplane. Since you already know how power works and how to trouble shoot you're off to the races.731Views0likes0Comments
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Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Jan 14, 202538,705 Posts
