All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Advice on unique oppotunityThanks for all the input. I am going to be taking a closer look over the entire RV to ensure there aren't any issues that I am not aware of, but I think I am going to go for it. I will post some pics if/when......Advice on unique oppotunityOkay so here is my situation I am hoping to get some advice, thoughts, insight, or whatever you all have: I currently have a 2017 Minnie Winnie 31K on E450 with a floorplan I love, but the rig doesn't seem to have the best fit n finish. I have the opportunity to switch over to a 2007 Bigfoot 32ST Super C on the Kodiak 5500 chassis with Duramax diesel. Owned by my in-law and meticulously maintained. Floorplan isn't to my preference, but not is not far off. I have always wanted a Super C, but I am concerned that due to the age and Bigfoot not making motorhomes since 2008, I do not want to get into something older that requires more work with minimal support available. On the other hand it seems Bigfoot made a solid product and the chassis seems to be similarly bulletproof like the E450, plus its a Super C with a solid fiberglass roof. I understand there are many factors in this decision, but what would you do? I am really on the fence on this one. Thanks!Re: Stainless wheel liners.2017 Minnie Winnie 31k here..... I had the same issue, in the end just pry harder. Mine are held on with a friction style teeth for lack of a better word, just work your way around the wheel with a pry bar and they will start to come loose. It took a bit of muscle and time to work around the wheel, but once you get it going it will all make sense. I still hate taking them off!Re: Reducing push/pull from tractor trailers passing brooksrimes wrote: We have a 2021 Jayco Greyhawk 29MV, class C. Attached are links for a Hellwig 7180 rear sway bar, a Supersteer SS451 rear trac bar and rear Sumo springs SSR-130-54. Which would have the greatest benefit in reducing the push/pull from large tractor trailers passing us on the interstates? https://www.hellwigproducts.com/products/search-by-vehicle/?Year1=2021&Make=Ford&Model=E-450+Super+Duty https://supersteerparts.com/products/supersteer-ss451-rear-trac-bar-for-ford-e450-2021-v8.html https://supersteerparts.com/products/rear-sumosprings-solo-kit-for-ford-e350-e450-ssr-130-54.html Don't all the Greyhawks come with Jayco's J-ride system which is essentially bolts-on/shocks. I would ensure you don't already have what you have mentioned. I am pretty sure you do not have a trac-bar, which I found really helped. Then I got an alignment, added caster, and man so much better!Re: Removing factory silicone sealantSounds like I can switch over to Dicor. Thanks for the replies, always nice to confirm what I was already thinking.Removing factory silicone sealantHey all! Winnebago used NuFlex 311 Silicone sealant on all of the roofing joints and vents. The stuff seems to be holding up well on my 2017 Minnie Winnie. My gray tank roof vent just broke and has to be replaced. Of course this is near the skylight of my shower so the sealant for both are connected into one large layer of sealant. I know the main negative of silicone is that once you use silicone, nothing will stick to it in the event you have a crack. While researching the vent cover I needed, I came across a few videos stating to not use Dicor on Winnebago's roofs because they use silicone and there will always be a very thin layer left on the roof causing the Dicor to not stick. The videos claim to only use NuFlex for this reason. Question: 1) If the above was the case, wouldn't the NuFlex also not stick, because by nature, fresh silicone will not stick to cured silicon? 2)If that is true, I would have to ensure the roof was properly cleaned for either silicone or Dicor to stick, which means I could switch to Dicor without issue, right? 3) Will Mineral spirits followed up with alcohol along with vigorous rubbing clean all the residual silicone off the roof and allow new sealant to stick? Thank you in advance for your thoughts and recommendations?Re: Planning to Flat TowBlue Ox and Roadmaster seem to be the most popular brands, but you can certainly mix and match the parts. Just do you homework. I tow my wife's Jeep Grand Cherokee with no issues. We already had the Jeep so it was cheaper to outfit it than to get another vehicle. My dad tows a Honda CRV (they have to be pre-'15 I believe). If I were in the market for a dedicated tow vehicle, the CRV would be high on my list.Re: Flat Towing New Ford Ranger Behind Class C klutchdust wrote: ..." the 395 outside mammoth on the long grade out Bishop. " That grade is a doozy both ways. Of course if you ever turned off a bit later and went into Yosemite .. That is a grade and a half.... Been there, but not with the motorhome. Done it in a TC and other than the narrow roads in Yosemite, no big deal. In a m/h, no thanks, I will head into the park from the Fresno side :CRe: What does this go to - A/C edition Old-Biscuit wrote: See PG 10 Item #7 for correct location/installation of freeze sensor Coleman Mach Freeze Sensor Thanks all! and thank you Old Biscuit, I could not find a manual online for the life of me.What does this go to - A/C editionSo I was working on my Coleman Mach15 AC, taping up the divider between the return and the cold air side (whatever that is called). As I was working on the return side (where it sucks the coach air in) I pulled my hand down and my watch band caught a white wire that went up into the unit, pulling it right out. DOH! The end of this white wire has what appears to be a thermal sensor. I looked up into the AC and it looked like the wire was maybe plugged into an area in the center of the metal fins, so I plugged it into a random hole in the middle area of the metal fins. Ran the air and all seemed to work. Question, did I plug the white wire with the thermal sensor in the correct spot? I was trying to find it online and could not seem to find it.
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