fairlaniac
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Re: Can you install a SW6D water heater instead if SW6D-E?
They are the same dimensionally. Connections at same locations. Seems just one is gas only and my RV and original unit is gas/110v. I assume just extra wiring to deal with. I don’t plan to be a pioneer on this swap. If others have done it, I’d like to hear so. Thanks, Doug520Views0likes0CommentsCan you install a SW6D water heater instead if SW6D-E?
I need to remove my SW6D-E water heater due to a leaking tank. I have access to a one year old SW6D (no electric) water heater for $100. A friend of a friend deal. Can I install the non-electric heater an just don’t hook up the wiring not used? Thanks, Doug2.2KViews0likes8CommentsIs the "Flexpex" water tubing the same as Pex/Sharkbite?
I have a RV at a beach trailer park/campground near Bethany Beach, DE. I am 3 hours away from it. During our last visit in November I noticed the on board water heater was leaking. It appears on a quick look it had rusted through. I have a 30 gallon electric water heater I use during the spring and summer when the campground water is running. I use the 6 gallon onboard for visits between Oct-Apr. So I really didn't get much info on the onboard heater because we noticed it as we were getting ready to leave back in November. I plan to go down in a week or two to check things out and decide which onboard propane heater to get. In the mean time water is on at the park and I will utilize my 30 gallon heater. Sorry for the long lead in. I want to bypass my 6 gallon heater and pull it out. I want to simply cut the incoming 1/2" line, cut the outgoing 1/2" line and use two Pex/Sharkbite elbows and a piece of 1/2" tubing to bypass the heater and later in the summer I will replace the heater. So per my title question. Is the "Flexpex" water tubing the same as Pex/Sharkbite? See image or link http://www.fairlanet.com/images/rv1.jpg Thanks,1.4KViews0likes3CommentsTankless heater in seasonal TT
We have a TT in a park near the beach in Delaware. I have the OEM propane hot water heater on board that we use in the off season. Water is off from 10/15 - 4/15 annually. IO have a 275 gallon IBC tank with fresh water to use in the off season. During season I have an electric hot water heater and I valve off the onboard water heater during spring/summer. The onboard heater developed a rust hole leak. I'm thinking about a tankless heater but I'm trying to figure out if my two heater system will cause issue? In the off season I use the 12V pump for my water and in spring/summer I use park water pressure. Would a tankless have issues with the different ways of getting water to the heater? FYI - I don't use the electric heater in the off season because each time we leave off season I winterize and I would need to dump the 30 gallons in the electric heater each time. So we use the 6 gallon and do a typical winterize each time. 275 gallons lasts us 3-4 off season trips. thanks, Doug1.2KViews0likes4CommentsRe: Help with floor ducted furnace, lack of air flow
midnightsadie wrote: you could drill a hole in the duct work ,use camera then buy a plastic plug for the hole. How would you access any of the ductwork? As seen in the picture at the top of the post, the furnace unit sits over an opening (I assume) and feeds the below floor level ducts.592Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help with floor ducted furnace, lack of air flow
Dusty R wrote: fairlaniac wrote: On the way home I had a thought. I should have removed one of the block off discs to verify air is pushing from the unit. That thought came after 2 hours of driving:) Those block off discs, are knock out plugs, and once removed will not stay back in. Be very careful what you use to push down a duct as it is quite likely you could poke a hole in it. Dusty Actually the plugs are discs that have an indexing tab and twist to lock. That is my concern about poking in the duct work. I assume to access the duct work you must pull up the floor? Lets not go there yet :D592Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help with floor ducted furnace, lack of air flow
Here is picture I found on the internet that is very similar to my trailer. The red line indicates where the duct runs down the center of the trailer and the 90 degree dashed line heads to the furnace under the sink/counter. No sure the easiest way to get the scope in the register opening, down and around to the furnace other than the wire I mentioned in the post above.593Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help with floor ducted furnace, lack of air flow
Jack_Diane_Freedom wrote: I had the same problem in a previous trailer. Plastic wire coil ducting had disconnected from the floor vent. Took vent out of the floor and reconnected. Might work for you. I have an endoscope that I use on my iPhone. I mainly use it for looking in car engines. I can give it a shot, it has a 5 ft. cord. I may need to put it on a rigid wire to fish it around a corner. I assume the duct directly out of the furnace goes towards the center of the trailer and intersects with the long duct down the center length of the trailer.259Views0likes0Comments
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