tsweez
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Re: Battery hook up
What yr/model Mallard to do you have? I have a 91 Mallard Sprinter and might have the diagram you need in my tech manual. If not, maybe I can take a couple of pics. As I recall, that white wire comes from your battery charger/power converter and is connected to the battery neg on the house battery. My configuration was 1 house bat and one start bat. I recently upgraded to 4 6volts so my config might look a little different. majmikie wrote: Hi. I have a old Mallard motorhome and starting to retore it. There is one house battery and two deep cycle batteries. Diagrahm is lost of the proper placement of wiring. Help! House battery has pos wire to starter solenoid. Neg wire to ground. Deep cycle #1 has neg to ground and pos to generator. Deep cycle #2 has neg to (booster?) solenoid on fire wall. Nothing on pos side. I have three wires I don't know about. One is a white wire which comes in through the firewall with the large generator wire. The other two are connected. One is red and the other is black. My thoughts are that the red connects to the other side of the booster solenoid down to the pos side of deep cycle battery #2 and then the black (again which is connected to the red) onto a ground. Thanks for any help.379Views0likes0CommentsRe: Inverter: Where to start? Subpanel or No Subpanel?
Okay, so now my 2nd mod is behind me. I decided to go with smkettners suggestion which worked well and I'm quite pleased. The first thing I did was to add another 15 amp breaker and move the outlets to their own circuit. This was much easier than I thought it would be. I simply removed the pigtail that combined the charger/controller to the outlets and ran each to their own breaker. After that, I ran two strands of romex from the panel to the bay adjacent to my new battery bay. I spliced one of these runs to the romex that fed the outlets which became my AC out on the inverter. The other romex was wired to the breaker and that fed my AC "in" on the inverter. Everything works great, including the built-in transfer switch. If I'm running the gen and turn it off, the inverter kicks in immediately. Conversely, when the gen comes on, the inverter goes off-line. Same of course for shore power. To me, that transfer switch was really a safety feature. I have the on/off remote routed to the inverter so I can turn it on when I want at the touch of a button which is really what I intend on doing. The only thing I need to remember is to switch my fridge to propane when I'm on the inverter. Inverter Install Pic Special thanks again to the awesome folks here. For a new RV owner who possesses only moderate DIY skills, these conversations have been invaluable. Until next time! Tim597Views0likes0CommentsRe: Inverter: Where to start? Subpanel or No Subpanel?
Yes, the Cotek is a pure sine wave unit. It's my understanding that it's a more industrial version of the Samlex line made for emergency vehicles, etc. It doesn't have plugs but I'm not sure I want to go the manual route as I like the idea of a simple one button press for the inverter not to mention, only powering outlets I know it can handle. I get thick sometimes, and this would provide me with some comfort. Not to mention, it appears as though I still have to tweak the breaker config so I don't turn off the outlets at the same time I turn off the controller/charger. But I do like the power conditioning affording by the whole house approach. As for the location, yep. The inverter will be very close to batteries. I created a new enclosed and vented battery bay with the inverter positioned just on the other side of the divider. I also have the inline fuse all ready to go. Geesh I love the internet. Between you great folks and a wealth of information, it sure can be empowering. -T pianotuna wrote: Hi tsweez, Is the Cotek a pure sine wave unit? Check to see if the converter plugs in. Mine does. If yours does not, add a female plug and a male plug. Or add a switch. I do prefer the plug as it allow for double conversion when there is poor quality shore power. I see no advantage to using an "internal to the inverter" transfer switch. Sooner or later the contacts may burn. When they do *ouch*. Just use the KISS principle when installing the inverter. I.E. as close as humanly possible to the battery bank, without being in the same compartment, and plug in the existing shore power cord. tsweez wrote: For reference, the Cotek I have does have a built-in 30amp transfer.598Views0likes0CommentsRe: Inverter: Where to start? Subpanel or No Subpanel?
Quick Question... Since my charger/controller are on the same breaker as my house outlets, wouldn't that create a problem if I did "whole house?" Sorry if I'm dense here, but don't I have to switch off the breaker that feeds the charger/controller when I want to use the inverter? And by doing so, wouldn't I be switching off the outlets at the same time? Thanks in advance for your patience :) Tim597Views0likes0CommentsRe: Inverter: Where to start? Subpanel or No Subpanel?
For reference, the Cotek I have does have a built-in 30amp transfer. It looks like they do have versions that are only 25amp though. I'll take another look tomorrow to see if this is something I feel comfortable doing. Otherwise, perhaps I can route the romex and pick up a 15amp breaker and have a pro do the rest. smkettner wrote: No subpanel. Internal transfer switch is probably not 30a rated so whole house you need to buy a separate transfer switch. I recommend: 1) Remove that cover and insert a new 15a breaker. Connect the converter direct to this new breaker. 2) The existing 15a breaker that goes to all outlets will feed the inverter input. Remove the romex from this breaker (hot, neutral, ground) and connect the romex to the output of the inverter. New piece of romex connects all three (H,N,G) from the panel to the inverter input. Connect your 12v and you are good to go. (Put the fridge on propane)241Views0likes0CommentsInverter: Where to start? Subpanel or No Subpanel?
Thanks in large part to the community here, this new RV'r just finished his first mod, e.g. creating a new battery location and replacement of the power converter/charger. My next project is installing or at least "preparing" for an inverter installation. I'd like to do as much of this as possible as to control cost, but under no circumstances do I want to sacrifice safety. If I can get this most of the way complete, I'd be a happy guy. Here's the scoop... The scope is to install,(as much as is safe) a 12v Cotek 1500 PSW inverter. This inverter has an internal transfer switch and AC breaker. I want the inverter to power all my coach outlets except for A/C and the Microwave. I don't want any manual switching here at all, rather, have inverter setup so it acts much like a UPS in the absence of shore or generator power. Likewise, I want the inverter to bypass should shore or gen power be available. For reference, my AC panel already has the Microwave and Air Conditioning on their own breakers. The remaining coach outlets (the ones I want on the inverter) are all on the same breaker including the GFCI outlet in the bath. This breaker is also wired to my converter/controller with what appears to be a pigtail of sorts (pic below). Pic of panel Pic of breaker w/pigtail Questions Since the coach outlet wiring is already isolated, do I need a subpanel here? Do I need to separate the house wiring from the exist breaker that also shares the controller/charger? Again, if I need to pay someone to do this, I will. I'm just trying to save as much as I can and move the project in a direction that I know is both safe and effective. The last RV shop I went to was going botch this whole thing and I just want it done right, and for as little as possible. Thanks again for your help. Tim8.7KViews0likes22CommentsRe: New RV'r - Batts + Chargers + Inverters = clueless
Both are great suggestions. I'll revisit the bracing issue but I do have a brace on the bottom of that part of the compartment. Albeit not much of one. I was also considering somewhat of a backwards approach as well. I currently have 3/4 inch ply which is secured to the floor. I thought of anchoring some stranded aircraft cable to the battery platform to the subfloor above. That might take some of the pressure off in the event of a catastrophic failure. As for the sponge idea... I'm on it! Cheers, Tim pianotuna wrote: Hi tsweez, Nice job. You may need to add (weld?) a bracket under the entire storage cabinet. The compartment was not designed for that amount of weight. It would not be nice to have the batteries detach from the RV while trundling down the road. I "hid" my air vent on the rear side of the compartment and used a sponge to keep dust and dirt out. That let me put the vent up a bit higher than if I had gone through the door. I'd suggest covering the "back side" of your vent with some thin sponge to keep out dirt as well.520Views0likes0CommentsRe: New RV'r - Batts + Chargers + Inverters = clueless
Well, here's where I wrap up this little adventure before moving on to the next (my inverter install). Basically, the scope here was to replace an existing 12v coach battery with 4x6v golf cart batteries, upgrade the power converter and charger, and a battery monitor. Power Converter Upgrade As a new RV owner, I didn't even know where the power converter was located (under the fridge) so this was an adventure. The existing Magnetek 6345 had to be replaced in favor of a three stage charger. The recommendation was to consider a solution that would support 75 to 90 amps as to allow for the additional batteries. In doing so, I'd get a faster charge. But as with anything else, life is about tradeoffs. In the end, I opted for an easy replacement, e.g. the Progressive Dynamics PD4655 which is a 55amp charger/converter. The PD4655 is a mostly a direct replacement that also comes with a new DC fuse panel and built-in charge wizard (don't order the wizard pendant, it can't attach). Randy at Best Converter recommended this path and noted that the PD9280 I was considering wouldn't fit. Either way, I'm in for a lesson here. But it's in, and it's working. And for now at least, I'm happy. Batteries I didn't go with the Trojan T105's as I had originally planned. Based on price/performance comments regarding Sams Club and Costo batteries, that's the route I took, specifically, Costco. As I recall, each battery was 208Ah with a price of $87 each +$9 core charge. I had our local "Batteries Plus" outlet custom cut each of the cables (welding cables). 2/0 went from the relay in the engine compartment to the new battery location. 2/0 from the batteries to the shunt (for the trimetric monitor). 2/0 from the shunt to the chassis for ground. #2 gauge cable was used to wire the batteries together Creating a new battery bay We picked a spot for the new battery bay just behind the driver. This would be a short cable run from the isolator/relay making things relatively easy. We had to section off the basement storage compartment as to keep the batteries separate from the other air space. For those who are interested, here's a video I put together of what was done. I'm pleased with how the new bay came out. YouTube Video: 1991 Mallard Sprinter Battery Relocation Project Misc Pics The new battery bay https://picasaweb.google.com/111643192205869745892/June42013?authuser=0&feat=directlinkBattery bay vent Trimetric panel install Thank You Special thanks to each of you for your help. It really made this process a great deal easier knowing that I had such a wealth of knowledge available. I hope someday I can give back as well. Best, Tim520Views0likes0CommentsRe: New RV'r - Batts + Chargers + Inverters = clueless
Curious about what you think in regard to PD4655. This was Randy's recommendation. I did shoot him another email about charge times etc. as it was only a 55amp charge controller. At any rate, Randy noted that this product was an upgrade to what I have now. While it looks super easy to install, I'm curious what I might be sacrificing. Here's the URL for the product... http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4655-55-Amp-Converter-Upgrade-Section_p_352.html#.UZrrIJwSpwM Thoughts? BFL13 wrote: You will note the "Max " in the Go Power converter line nowadays (they used to re-brand Iotas) Now they are PowerMax. Same same except price! IMO Go Power has high prices. Randy and PowerMax has good prices by comparison. You need high amps to fast charge four batts. The PowerMax 100 would be ideal for the price. It has one disadvantage, in that it drops to 13.7v for Absorption voltage vs 14.2v for Iota. But this has no meaning when on shore power or if you have solar. On solar, and for some reason like cloudy days, you get down to 50% SOC, then you want a quick shot of gen charging in the morning using your fast charger (the PowerMax 100 amper) and it will get you back to 75% SOC in quick time (an hour or less) then drop to 13.7v and go to slow time at that voltage. BUT, now you are back to 75% SOC and you have all the rest of the day on solar to get caught up so you shut down the gen and go solar. So IMO (I have a PowerMax 100amper and solar and dry camp with four 6s) you would get no advantage for the higher cost of an Iota 90, plus, and this is very important as mena said, the PowerMax has power factor correction so it can run on an AC 15a circuit.521Views0likes0CommentsRe: New RV'r - Batts + Chargers + Inverters = clueless
Thank you for the sentiment. As mentioned in a previous post, it's amazing just how lightning fast the community responds and contributes to the dialog. The level of expertise, and the pace at which you all contribute is key to my projects success. This is pretty awesome. Best, Tim Canadian Rainbirds wrote: You know, it's really gratifying to see someone who knows what they want to do, researches what they might need, then ask pertinent questions of the very knowledgeable people on this board. You have received suggestions from very a wide variety of helpful people, from experienced solar users to a battery design engineer. Your installation will go much easier for your preparation. Much nicer to read and respond to than "I put in 1000 watts of solar but my group 24 marine battery won't last the night", or "I installed 6 GC batteries but the 40 watt solar panel won't recharge them". I thought I knew all I needed to know about batteries and charging until I began doing a little more dry camping. It took me about two years of fooling around and asking questions here to realise that one day I just might learn enough.522Views0likes0Comments
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