muzikman45
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Cell and Mifi signal booster recommendations?
We are camphosts in the state parks in our area. And just about every host site we've been to we have a weak or bad cell signal. We use Verizon Wireless for our service and have Samsung Galaxy S5 cells, and a Mifi for our internet. Does anyone have any suggestions on what signal boosters are better for our cell phones and Mifi? We have 4 cell phones and 1 Mifi, so a single user booster won't work. There's a few of them out there and we can't spend hundreds of $$'s. Maybe you folks out there in the RV'ing world have some experiences of what NOT to get, and what works great for you. We would love to hear your suggestions. Thanks so much, and happy travels!1.9KViews0likes7CommentsKohler 7CMZ21 Generator issues
Ok, my generator was running fine until 3 weeks ago. I've been on 15amp Shore Power for a few months. The volt meter on the battery with the converter running is showing 13.7 volts. Problem 1: I decided to test out some appliances on 50amp generator power. Three weeks ago when I started the generator up (with shore power unplugged), as soon as the transfer switch kicks over to the generator power I turned on the Main breaker, the converter breaker, and the GFI outlet breaker with the test button. The 110 volt outlets work and show okay with my tester. But when I plug in a power bar with surge protection (NOTHING PLUGGED INTO IT), it trips the GFI Outlet breaker every time! I've tried 2 different power bars. But when I plug in a 110 volt light, it works fine, no trips. Also the battery meter then shows 12.7 volts with the converter running. I've been using the power bar on 15 amp shore power fine. Problem 2 (and probably related to problem 1): Today I started the generator, 3/4 tank of gas, oil is up, and the generator ran for 1 minute and quit. I start it back up again, 10 seconds later it quits. Battery meter showing 12.7 volts with converter running. Could it be a bad transfer switch that the power is weak on the generator side? or maybe a grounding issue (shorting out)? Any ideas? Both 30 amp switches on the generator itself are both switched on. I checked the 30 amp fuse on the generator and it appears fine. Dave D.669Views0likes0CommentsRe: Brake pads for P30 Chassis
enblethen wrote: Many of the items are pretty simple to repair. I do not understand why the shop would not want to work on the brakes. Nothing in your list would be a n issue. It would be very expensive. I would suggest replacing the front coil springs with the ones from Henderson Line up in Grants Pass, OR. They do away with troublesome front air bags. Harmonic balancer is fairly easy. You can borrow tool from O'Reilly auto parts to remove it. I do not know why South Colby is located. Thank You! Great suggestions and confidence building. :) South Colby is outer Port Orchard, WA. across the Puget Sound from Seattle, WA.588Views0likes0CommentsRe: Brake pads for P30 Chassis
muzikman45 wrote: enblethen wrote: Most step vans are lighter then the stripped chassis. I use the Brake Best C149 ceramic. Some cannot take the heat. On my 1993, I use the base. What is the problems elsewhere for his reasoning for not working on the rig? 3. Harmonic Balancer coming apart Will be watching the Harmonic Balancer and saving up to get that replaced asap.590Views0likes0CommentsRe: Brake pads for P30 Chassis
enblethen wrote: Most step vans are lighter then the stripped chassis. I use the Brake Best C149 ceramic. Some cannot take the heat. On my 1993, I use the base. What is the problems elsewhere for his reasoning for not working on the rig? 1. Numerous electrical issues 2. system is overcharging with regulator 3. Harmonic Balancer coming apart 4. All belts need replacing (except the serpentine belt I replaced myself) 5. Exhaust air injection tube rusted out and leaks (not manufactured anymore and hard to find) 6. Front tires heavily dry rotted. 7. 1 rear tire off rim, bead seal broken. (Inspection mechanic fixed) 8. Both front air bags blown, rear bag leaks. 9. Needs complete all around brakes, overheated and cracked pads (major) 10. Tag axle hub wet and rusted inside. Mechanic said this would cost us $1000's (plural) in parts and labor. His 16 years in RV repair and 35 years in auto repair experience, he suggested not putting a penny more into this thing. He said we could ease it around town to empty tanks, but this motorhome can be used as a guest room for somebody, but not for traveling. On a good note, my father-in-law who is an FAA mechanic and maintains his own vehicles and RV, after inspecting it himself yesterday says there isn't anything on this list that is un-fixable with a little elbow grease. He said most of it's just regular maintenance stuff. Tires aren't as bad as mechanic made us think, but they should be replaced before going over 1000 miles. Belts are in fact in good shape, and I have spares if any of them break. I just replaced the Serpentine belt a month ago so I'm not sure how hard this mechanic looked. He didn't really have a lot of room for an RV anyway so I'm thinking he just didn't want the job, which is okay. The more I learn my RV myself, the better. So I'm taking it to my father-in-law's hanger and will be working on it together with him. Will save me a LOT in labor costs for sure.584Views0likes0CommentsRe: Brake pads for P30 Chassis
enblethen wrote: O"reilly's normal stock the pads. make sure you get severe duty pads for the front. Easy listing. Go to O'Reilly.com Add new vehicle. You will be looking for P-30. There will lots of listings. Look for the Stripped Chassis. Brake shoes for rear should be in stock. I would suggest getting a couple of bottles of brake fluid and flush system. If they haven't been replaced replace the front rubber brake lines. The rear drums are heavy and takes some special tools to un-screw the nuts on the hubs. Are you going to try to have drums and rotors turned? Replacement discs are readily available but takes some efforts to separate from front hubs. The brake calipers have a wedge and spring that needs to be driven out after the locking screw is removed. Make sure you get some brake lubricant for the wedge. O'Reilly Awesome! Thanks! Is it better to choose Step-Van over Base? I'm assuming so since Step-Van's start and stop a lot and need heavier pads?153Views0likes0CommentsBrake pads for P30 Chassis
I need to get my drum brake pads for rear, and disc brake pads for front replaced. They are cracked and "overheated" as one mechanic told me. But he found problems everywhere else that he didn't want to touch the motorhome. Oh well! I'm doing it myself. My question is I don't know what brake pads I need. I called an auto parts store and they didn't have my motorhome listed in their system so they couldn't tell me. Anyone have any ideas or where I can find out? 35' 1987 Country Coach Mark V P30 Chassis 454 gas engine Thanks! Dave D.7.9KViews0likes20CommentsRe: Furnace blowing cold air
I was having this same issue until I cleaned the end of the propane tube that wraps around the back and into the burner where the solenoid is. The end of that tube has a cap with a pin hole that can unscrew. In my case, the pin hole was plugged with rust particles keeping the propane from flowing through. It was that easy, after much diagnosing the other parts first.249Views0likes0Comments
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