bclinton
Explorer
Joined 7 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: RSSA Install on Ford F-53
So, I left the tie rod bracket on top of the tie rod and moved the shock to the bottom side of it. Added a little angle but is now well away from the track bar.....I feel better now. Thanks for the input! https://photos.app.goo.gl/GWCrvTGziqQ8tJaf1198Views0likes0CommentsRe: RSSA Install on Ford F-53
Ductape wrote: Inch separation horizontally or vertically? If vertical it likely will contact when the suspension compresses. PS, tell H I said hello. Vertically. I was afraid of that. My option would be to move it to the bottom of the tie rod bracket. That would gain my about 3 inches of separation but add a slight angle to it. I am thinking the angle is less critical. I will probably go that route now. That is how I originally had it installed but changed it because of the documentation from Roadmaster.198Views0likes0CommentsRSSA Install on Ford F-53
Hi folks. I have been back and forth with Roadmaster about the installation of their RSSA steering stabilizer. I have a Georgetown 31B3 and it was fairly easy to install. My problem with it is there are various videos on the install and various ways to install it. The Roadmaster installation instruction even contradicts itself. It has a photo of the tie rod bracket on top of the tie rod and the written instructions tell me to put it on the bottom. I went with it on top of the tie rod along with the stabilizer on top of the bracket to try and get the shock as level as possible. My concern is it is only about an inch from the track bar. I don't think they can make contact but wanted to ask someone that may have installed one already. Here is a pic of what my install looks like. It amazes me that Roadmaster still has bad installation instructions included with something that can be deadly if done wrong. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dj6hwgHP6osilQhM2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/N4OxXhRdfbcfkaMh11.2KViews0likes3CommentsRe: Buying my first NEW rv
The_Owl wrote: I would first start with a reputable dealer. We drove 100 miles because the one we have in town is definitely not reputable. As it is now 2018, you might be able to make a deal on a new 2017 that the dealer wants to clear off the lot. I just did this and got 34% off msrp and ended up being a better deal than a used 2016. Good luck and enjoy the process. A good attitude really helped us get through. This is what we did. Found a dealer up north with 1 left that he was having trouble selling. He said I was getting it at invoice which he showed me. Normally I don't trust any dealer but I feel this one was shooting me straight.347Views0likes0CommentsRe: Class A insurance
strudeau wrote: Just received my letter from Blue Sky stating that they were getting out of the RV market. Called Good Sam and they quoted me a policy that was $800 more per year than what I had been paying, this quote was through National General. He went on to tell me that “you pay more for our insurance, but we’ll never go out of business like the other guys.” He said he could quote me a policy through Progressive, but it would be more expensive. I told Him he was too high on his quote, he promised to work some numbers and call me back the next day. Overnight his quote went up $200 and the dollar values were unchanged. I ended up calling Progressive my self and getting the same dollar value policy I had through Blue Sky. This was nearly $1K less than Good Sams quote. All for the piece of mind of knowing they’ll never go out of business. I believe him, at those prices they’ll be in business forever. I wonder why companies are getting out? You would think the claim stats are not too bad and it would be profitable....480Views0likes0CommentsRe: Class A insurance
Cobra21 wrote: I used roadside assistance last year with Progressive. I called the nearest available firm, paid them for their services with my own money. I submitted the claim to Progressive and was refunded the total amount very quickly. You don't have to use the 1-800 number. Brian Great info. Thanks.383Views0likes0CommentsRe: Class A insurance
eadeal55 wrote: bclinton wrote: eadeal55 wrote: Have had Progressive thru USAA for the past 13 years. Real good with a damage claim 8 years ago, the disappearing deductible saved me $1000. Average cost about $90 a month, but I have $500K coverage for liability and uninsured motorist, plus collision, $5K medical per person, $10K personal effects replacement, $2K trip interruption, $500K vacation liability (covers me sitting in any campground), $500 per instance tow/labor with roadside assistance. After first 5 years, went from full replacement value (what it would cost to buy a 2010 Bounder) to total loss replacement/agreed value, which means that now every two years or so I call them up and lower my agreed value to a couple thousand over payoff. I get discounts for being a USAA member, good driver and original owner. Let me ask you? Is the road side assistance that I got with Progressive good enough? Does it have pretty good coverage in line with the good sam club? Have never had to use it, but I have called their number and got them on the phone and asked all kinds of questions about how they would respond to different break down and flat/blown tire situations. The guy I talked to was well versed and assured me that they would take care of the issue when it happened. I was satisfied to the point of not ever looking at Good Sam's or FMCA's roadside assistance. Excellent.... Thanks!343Views0likes0CommentsRe: Class A insurance
eadeal55 wrote: Have had Progressive thru USAA for the past 13 years. Real good with a damage claim 8 years ago, the disappearing deductible saved me $1000. Average cost about $90 a month, but I have $500K coverage for liability and uninsured motorist, plus collision, $5K medical per person, $10K personal effects replacement, $2K trip interruption, $500K vacation liability (covers me sitting in any campground), $500 per instance tow/labor with roadside assistance. After first 5 years, went from full replacement value (what it would cost to buy a 2010 Bounder) to total loss replacement/agreed value, which means that now every two years or so I call them up and lower my agreed value to a couple thousand over payoff. I get discounts for being a USAA member, good driver and original owner. Let me ask you? Is the road side assistance that I got with Progressive good enough? Does it have pretty good coverage in line with the good sam club?343Views0likes0CommentsRe: Class A insurance
eadeal55 wrote: Have had Progressive thru USAA for the past 13 years. Real good with a damage claim 8 years ago, the disappearing deductible saved me $1000. Average cost about $90 a month, but I have $500K coverage for liability and uninsured motorist, plus collision, $5K medical per person, $10K personal effects replacement, $2K trip interruption, $500K vacation liability (covers me sitting in any campground), $500 per instance tow/labor with roadside assistance. After first 5 years, went from full replacement value (what it would cost to buy a 2010 Bounder) to total loss replacement/agreed value, which means that now every two years or so I call them up and lower my agreed value to a couple thousand over payoff. I get discounts for being a USAA member, good driver and original owner. Great info. Thanks! I signed up. I assume you can adjust amounts when you see the need right?343Views0likes0CommentsRe: Class A insurance
ScottG wrote: bclinton wrote: They were over 6000 a month.... Did you post that right? $6K? Actually it 6000 per year....same difference for me though :) ....the headline on the web said "We save the average RV'er over $300 per year" lol Looks like progressive gets it for me.....343Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Motorhome Group
Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Jan 14, 202538,705 Posts RV Newbies
We all start out new. Share lessons learned or first-time questions!Jun 15, 20174,026 Posts
