Raynbowman
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Re: Rm2620 Dometic Reefer problem
Walls are insulated back side is approximately 5" clearance, top is unobstructed and vented. Reefer is out of camper for now. When using LPG and using eyebrow control at top of unit, there is no change in flame when adjusting from 5 to 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 Flame does not go out, flame does not change. Fridge compartment temperature is at 38f wasatchmtnatvr, what I do not understand is, if all controls are out of picture (disconnected) and LPG is applied to system by bypassing controls (it went to 50f and 80F overnite), why then does the unit not just turn into a freezer completely? Does the unit not become like my 30 old, non technical reefer? Pull to over ride thermocoupler unit and activate striker to start burn until it has developed enough heat to develop enough currant to keep solenoid open. Is the board in Dometic faulty? Your analogy is spot on.361Views0likes0CommentsRe: Rm2620 Dometic Reefer problem
My deepest apologies, I am up in Canada and am reading 2 different thermometers in 2 different compartments. I should have written all temps in Fahrenheit. So it is now 38 deg Fahrenheit in fridge and 0.4 Fahrenheit in freezer. It has cooled off a bit up here today and so this is reflecting currant temperatures. I am going to clean all contacts and apply dialectic grease to all contacts. New thermistor is as high as I can get it in fridge compartment and brow is set at 5. I would like to get fridge to operate 34 Fahrenheit. Did dollar bill check on perimeter seal and it is good. Sorry for confusion.361Views0likes0CommentsRm2620 Dometic Reefer problem
Refrigerator will not cool properly 45f, freezer will cool to minus 20f. I have cleaned orifice, cleaned solenoid valve and all connections. Cleaned flue and replaced insert. Replaced thermistor. Both ac and propane work this way. So to try and fault the black box, I shut down refrigerator and disconnected all power sources. I removed incoming leads to propane solenoid valve, and powered solenoid up with 12 volt dc power source. I ran overnight and fridge went to 80f and freezer 50f. I reconnected everything stock and fired up on propane and had ice in freezer in 3 hours. My question is then: is there or are there any electrically controlled devices (valves) within the walls of the unit that have to be controlled with 12 volts, and without any power source to black box and eyebrow, which is why when I isolated solenoid valve I got no cooling what so ever. A lot of searches have suggested the thermistor was at fault, not so in this case. Is it the black box, or a faulty (unknown) valve within the walls of the refrigerator. I would love so much to have any input into my dilemma. Much appreciated2.1KViews0likes11Comments
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