cnsayre
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Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
professor95 wrote: cnsayre wrote: Dang it. My C46517 has a fuel leak. It's either in the fuel line or the shut-off valve. The fuel line is easy enough to change. Anyone out there replace the shut off valve? I'm hoping there isn't something INSIDE the gas tank, such as a nut, that needs to be held when removing/reinstalling the valve. If there is, that's going to be painful... No nut inside. The petcock just screws out after loosening the jamb nut on the bottom of the tank. Check the jamb nut to be sure it is tight. Also the gasket under the nut. Be sure the tank does not have a crack - they can develop at the petcock attachment. Some petcocks can be disassembled. If yours is one be sure the two tiny Phillips screws are tight on the plate behind the lever. The cost of the new fuel valve from Champion was something like $5. For $5, it's not worth trying to rebuild the valve. And thanks. This is this weekend's project, if I manage to find time between a houseguest and two weddings to go to...342Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Dang it. My C46517 has a fuel leak. It's either in the fuel line or the shut-off valve. The fuel line is easy enough to change. Anyone out there replace the shut off valve? I'm hoping there isn't something INSIDE the gas tank, such as a nut, that needs to be held when removing/reinstalling the valve. If there is, that's going to be painful...341Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
professor95 wrote: ol Bombero-JC wrote: Prof - (Re: The enclosure heat - Potatoes in the Micro) Maybe just pack the potatoes around in your pockets for a while! You just turned on a light inside the dark side of my brain. Why did I not think of this before? All I needed to do was hinge one side of the muffler enclosure I built so that I could open it like an oven and place the spuds inside. You know, sort of like heating a can of pork & beans on the cylinder head of the old Studebaker flathead six (for real - I have done it!). Yep, Floyd, it is a "high tech" system for sure. All kidding aside, I am beginning to pay more attention to the wasted energy we normally ignore. What about all the exhaust heat from the genny?..... or out the tail pipe of the tow vehicle? Maybe recapture it with a u-pull-it junkyard turbo attached to yet another generator - like a smaller 12 volt unit to charge a battery? Using the genny heat to warm the coach in cool weather is not too far off the table - makes better sense that electric heaters running off the genny. I am working on placing a metal tank in my attic to preheat water for the hot side of my domestic system in the house. Yes, I am including a drain pan. Why not a solar or genny to water heater waste heat system for the RV? Saw a clip on the telly this AM about using attic heat to warm the water in a pool - not a bad idea. I have been thinking more along the lines of using our pool water to cool air via a couple of radiators and fans in series with the pool pump - that is until the water in the pool gets too warm. Sure wish I could freeze it solid in the winter and use the ice in the summer to cool the house. I do have two unused wells with 56 degree water in them that are beginning to look pretty attractive as a possible coolant source. The RV is pretty wasteful as well. We occasionally use the genny to run the 15K BTU roof top air conditioner. But, that is my gas going into the genny, not a site specific unmetered prepaid campground power source. A second look at windows, doors and sloppy workmanship that leaves open holes around electric cables, shower and sink drains comes to mind, as well as insulating the roof vents. Geeze, if you want to have more projects to do than time allows, retire. Two words: Stirling engine cnsayre324Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
generator-guy wrote: cnsayre wrote: I'm thinking that in the Champion then, either the magnets are electromagnets, not permanent magnets, that are adjusted by the AVR. Your first assumption is correct. The field winding I mentioned is essentially multiple electromagnets. The AVR controls the current to the field winding which in turn increases or reduces the magnetic field as required. Well, what do you know, every now and then a blind pig finds an acorn.... Thanks!282Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
I'm sturggling to understand this... Now, bear in mind, my dad has his own lawn and garden tool sales and repair shop. It's been YEARS, but I've seen the insides of an (admittedly) ancient generator. This is what my experience involves, and I guarantee that it wasn't as "high tech" as these newer generators. I want to understand this, and I have a pretty good background in electronic components (as in transistors, resistors, etc.). So bear with me as I muddle my way through this. generator-guy wrote: First some background... For those of you who have no idea how an AVR works, it's really pretty simple. To produce AC power, the generator head uses a rotating magnetic field against a set of armature windings. The strength of the magnetic field controls the output voltage of the generator. So the AVR adjusts the magnetic field (the current to the field winding). To adjust the magnetic field, if memory serves, you either have to move the magnets closer/further to the windings, or you'd have to increase the strength of the magnet, right? The magnets in those ancient generators I've had apart had fixed magnets that were rotated by the engine, and they couldn't be moved in relation to the windings (as an aside, in one generator, one of the magnets had gone out of position and had worn away some of the windings to the point where they broke. When that machine was started.... Ah, the sparks that flew!). I'm thinking that in the Champion then, either the magnets are electromagnets, not permanent magnets, that are adjusted by the AVR. -or- The AVR's transistors, which you mentioned below, open/close off resistive pathways, which, by V=IR, keeps the voltage constant for a given current draw... It's the latter that's right, right? Or am I missing the boat entirely here? If it is the latter, and the transistors were "closed" to begin with, then power would have to be supplied to open them up. Which also works with your explanation below. As the motor winds down, the transistors close, which increases the resistance, which decreases the current, which drops the voltage... Or am I completely confused? cnsayre282Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Old & Slow wrote: cnsayre: Thank you for your contribution. I feel your intentions are all good, however, the above post causes me great concern. I have learned on this thread the following among other items. One: In a RV there is no way to make a (rod) ground. Thus a need for a floating or natural ground. The RV to be treated as a safe appliance but add GFI's for safety. Two: LPG moves lower, thus the need for a LPG sensor at floor level. Three: CO rises, thus the need for several CO sensors ceiling height. Also be vary careful with the CO discharge from your genset. This is of MAJOR concern to all of us. I believe all RV factory installed gensets are suspect. Anything else? Floyd O&S Sorry. You lost me. I hadn't meant for that post to include RV usage, as the poster I quoted was looking at a "home use" situation (what with the using it in a carport setup). That said, I didn't mention grounding. And trust me, I would (and should!) be the last person to talk to about that. An electrical engineer I'm not. So if I gave the impression that I was talking about grounding, I'm sorry. It as unintentional. As for LPG, you're correct. LPG is more dense than air (although if it's escaping as a gas, the "L" part of the abbreviation makes no sense... ;-) )so that gas would collect in low-lying levels. I thought they always added "stink" to that stuff, too, so that it wsa easily smelled. Is it possible to get that without the odorant added? But again, I'm not sure how we wound up discussing LPG as I never mentioned it. CO does rise, and that's what I posted about. But that does make me wonder... I got my generator for occassional power outages (which happen quite frequently in Atlanta thunderstorms). We have a large, relatively level portion of roof. That would probably be the best place for the generator. Although my wife would kill me if I hoisted it up there and crawled out through a window to fire it up... cnsayre214Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
skyzoomer wrote: Hmmm, looks like distance is not that effective if the wind is blowing the fumes toward the house. Maybe an exhaust stack with the top of the stack above the roof is the only safe way to go? Definitely got me wondering. Long, long time lurker on this thread, and I'm finally going to stick my head out and add to it. Without trying to sound too full of myself, I'm a PhD chemist, so I know a little about chemicals. ;-) CO is lighter than air. It wants to rise. Depending on what that family's yard terrain is like, how much wind there was, etc., the CO may have "risen" up a slope and into the house. A raised stack is a great idea. I was doing some math regarding the generator in the car port with 12' open sides, trying to figure out much air would need to be "mixed" with the CO to bring it down to safe levels, but then I just smacked myself. With CO, it's better to be safe than to be very sorry. cnsayre PS. Oh yeah, I also own a Champion Generator.214Views0likes0Comments
