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Re: Wallowing Beast
j-d wrote: OP, Your word "Wallowing" continues to nag me. Unless your other car is a Porsche, you shouldn't be using "wallow" as a comparative to other vehicles' handling when you talk about a relatively small RV. I envision EXTREME sway, and it's hard to think there isn't something badly worn or damaged in the OEM springs or their shackles, etc. But especially on a Chevy chassis, that seems to handle a little better than a comparable Ford, "wallow" just doesn't fit, at least for me. By all means, the Hellwig sway bar will help. I hope it alleviates your defined wallow. If not, air bags might work, and speaking of Hellwig, a "helper" spring that kicks in when one side it goes to be the down side the helper on the up side isn't stiffening it. My guess... If it wallows as bad as the word Wallow implies, I think there's spring work ahead... And I hope not, just a couple mods will help you. Well, actually my other car is a very stiff C5 Corvette and the RVs primary purpose is to tow my Formula Vee race car to SCCA road racing events, so I guess I'm somewhat spoiled regarding handling. But I also used to drive a 55,000lb plow truck and I don't remember it being like this. Of course that truck had extremely heavy duty suspension for carrying super heavy loads so it's really not Apples to Apples. This RV was actually very good on the highway when I drove it home from purchasing it, it was actually a very windy day and didn't seem to be affected much at all. The problem comes when turning, it just seems very top-heavy as if it was grossly overloaded. I spoke to my friend who used to own a Class A RV and he said that basically that's just the way they handle for the most part. Having some knowledge of suspension and handling, I know that an anti-sway bar is what controls lean as well as the springs and to an extent the shocks. Since I have installed the sway bar I will see how it is and go from there I guess. I can also definitely see how tire pressure would effect that. I will inflate the tires to the proper setting also. That should definitely help. If it still isn't right I guess I will move on to the next step. I will also look at replacing the front bushings with urethane as OFDPOS mentioned. Thank you all for your help I appreciate it.560Views0likes0CommentsRe: Wallowing Beast
CharlesinGA wrote: pnichols wrote: You need to: 2. Run your rear tires at the Load E maximum of 80 lbs.. Common mis conception is to run tires at sidewall max inflation pressure. This creates a harsh ride and poor tire wear. There is a magic number for every circumstance based on weight the tires are carrying, and it isn't the max. On my 10,200 lb Max Gross View with 225/75R16 E rated tires, the number is about 62 lbs. Scroll down to page 21 of the PDF linked to for LT tire inflation ratings for 16 inch wheels, both single and dual. You have to know the load on the axle to read the charts, and this is for Michelin tires, but I suspect that other brands will not vary much from this. http://www.michelintruck.com/assets/pdf/Truck_Tire_Data_Book_Jan2007.pdf Charles I believe the recommended pressure is printed on a placard inside the driver's door on most vehicles. Of course as you point out, circumstances dictate...560Views0likes0CommentsRe: Dumb Lighting Question
Mandalay Parr wrote: It's probably only 12 volt. Never heard of a 12/120 volt light. All lights in my unit are 12 volt. I guess this is where my confusion comes in. I have the house battery and start battery disconnected but have the shore line hooked up to an outlet in my garage (110v) and all the lights in the RV work. I assume there must be a voltage limiter somewhere to drop it down to 12v?303Views0likes0CommentsDumb Lighting Question
I want to replace a ceiling light fixture (mini fluorescent) in my RV that's not working with a new one (can be led or whatever). I'm not too keen on electrical theory and am wondering what type of fixture I should get that will work with 12v and 110v. I see lots available for 12v but I'm not sure if they will work on 110V also. Thanks!1.5KViews0likes8CommentsRe: Wallowing Beast
j-d wrote: Charles is right. Posted all the Good Stuff. Gauge and Chuck where one head is Straight. And those Air-Through Caps are a blessing. Look carefully and see if you need Straight or Angled gauge and chuck. Then, you can probably get by with ordinary METAL valves. Not regular or "high pressure" ones involving rubber. With those and air-through caps, you should be able to check and inflate your tires. IF IF IF you use the long gauge and chuck. I wanted to be able to check and air up with whatever was available, and many air stations are for cars and single wheel trucks only. So I got Dually Valves by BORG The kit looks something like this for GM Class C The straight valves for inner tires suggest that a straight gauge and chuck will be best for you. What YEAR is your Chassis (may be different from the Year Model of your Coach, and Registration might show either)? I'd like to look at the Installation Instructions for the Hellwig rear sway bar to fit your chassis. The chassis and coach year are both 1995. The kit is the same part number for 1995-96. http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3612367Views0likes0Comments
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