Usagi
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Onan flooding and engine does not charge house battery
I have a 1994 Four Winds 5000 R/V that I recently bought. It's 29 ft in length. The Onan 4000 generator is hard to start. I believe it's flooding. There is a strong smell of gasoline while it is cranking. Is there some trick to starting it? Charging: There is a LED charge indicator on the wall. With nothing running, the yellow LED is lit. With the generator running the green one above it is lit. With the R/V truck engine running the yellow LED is lit, which I believe is indicating that the engine is not charging the house battery. Is there a switch, solenoid or breaker that needs to be thrown for the house battery to charge? If so, where do I find it?766Views0likes1CommentRe: Purchased RV leak over cab, now what?
Thank you Jose for your post. I read through it. I do wonder about the contact cement doesn't it dissolve styrofoam? There are some water-based versions that seem to be similar here: Adhesives I was thinking of liquid nails foam formula which doesn't dissolve styrofoam. I also am just ripping out everything in the cab-over area to find the leaks. I don't plan on keeping the R/V long term so all I want is that it be reasonably comfortable and not leak. So I think I'm more inclined toward the sort of repairs that its4mykids is talking about. The structure consists of aluminum square stock the passenger side has the majority of the leaks. I think it may be leaking around the front window too. The cab-over area will be used purely as storage. There are leaks further back so in order to make the sort of repair that Jose is doing I'd probably have to rip off the entire roof. I think its would be better to trash the R/V rather than do that.628Views0likes0CommentsRe: Seal a pitted Aluminum roof
I bought a 5 gal bucket of Snow Roof. I have 4 coats on now and I think the leaks have stopped. I still have a bit over a gallon left. I'm starting to work on the cab-over, removing rotted wood and rebuilding it. I'm doing this from the inside. I plan on using the cab-over simply for storage. Where the leaks were, the styrofoam has come loose from the ceiling. I plan on drilling holes from the bottom through the styrofoaam to help dry it, waiting as long as needed for it to dry, then injecting liquid nails, foam formula and prying upward to reattach the styrofoam to the aluminum roof. Then I'll add spray foam to fill the holes and add a vinyl wallpaper to cover the holes.458Views0likes0CommentsRe: Purchased RV leak over cab, now what?
I have a similar situation. I bought a 1994 Four Winds 5000 which is 29 feet long and has 54K miles. I got 6 good tires, a new toilet, new electric/gas refrigerator, a 4K Onan generator that starts with a bit of coaxing, an awning that is rotted a bit near the front-upper edge and some leaks and rot. I coated the roof and I think I got most if not all the leaks. Perhaps not totally in the cab-over area. Here's my Baby (or maybe lemon?): The leaks: One where one of the luggage carrier mounts allowed water to enter. Many around the TV antenna which I've now removed. Many pinholes and leaks in the cab-over. I coated the aluminum roof per this post: Sealing Leaky Aluminum Roof I think that stopped the roof leaks. Now I'm working on the inside of the cab-over area, ripping out rotted wood. The construction consists of these layers: aluminum roof (filon on the sides) luan plywood wet and rotted in places styrofoam thin cardboard vinyl ceiling (paneling on sides) I plan on using liquid nails - panel and foam formula to stick new or dried and cleaned styrofoam to the sides and roof. I plan on following that with thin paneling and perhaps finish ceiling with vinyl walpaper. My problem is what to do with the rotted areas where the ceiling styrofoam broke away from the rotted luan plywood. I may drill holes when I feel it has dried, inject some liquid nails and then cover the holes with more vinyl walpaper. I paid $3500 for the R/V. I got it with the idea of being able to get close to the coast then walk the docks on coastal areas so I can look for a sailboat to live on. Unfortunately I had no idea that R/V parks charge outrageous amounts of money, in fact far more than my apartment costs. Hence I'll likely be doing a lot of boon-docking until I get my sailboat. Thoughts?468Views0likes0CommentsRe: Seal a pitted Aluminum roof
I believe that the entire roof may have pinholes so I'm coating the whole thing. It's a 1994 Four Winds 5000 which is 29 feet. I have ripped out most of the wood and foam in the cab-over and I plan on rebuilding that when I can. First I'm just trying to seal it and stop leaks. Later I'll reinstall the foam and put in new wood framing as needed. It has some aluminum framing. I plan on cleaning the aluminum roof with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) before I apply the elasomeric coating... unless anyone here thinks I should prep the roof differently458Views0likes0CommentsSeal a pitted Aluminum roof
I have recently purchased a Class C - Four Winds 5000 R/V. It is leaking. The cab-over is leaking severely so I ripped out most of the rotted wood, planning to rebuild that part. I found many pinholes in the aluminum roof. There is a sticker on the R/V indicating that it has been in Florida and it was once registered in Vermont (salt country) so I suspect the pinholes are due to electrolysis and are in the entire aluminum roof. I plan on keeping it for only a year or two so I'd like to do a fairly quick, cheap and easy fix but I don't want to do anything stupid like using silicon which would mess it up for whoever gets it next.4.3KViews0likes9Comments
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