PsnRebel
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Re: I can’t be the only one with a poorly designed black tank.
dhull wrote: Here's what we do to get around developing the dreaded ^ at the bottom of the chute in our TC. Having experienced it several times, once had to take a stick to it and once was able to shake the camper and it went on down. Take a dish tub about 12x15x6 and fill it with water then pour it down the throat of the commode. Empty the tub as fast as you can. The volume of water hitting the solids moves it along. We do this every 2 days. Simply flushing extra toilet water down doesn't work nor does pouring it out of a gallon jug. Thanks for all the suggestions. This may be a solution. I did a quick search on amazon and found there’s an “rv plunger.” Basically a stick with a rigid propeller type thing on the end to help move things along. Found it cheaper directly from the mfg. just received it yesterday. So I’ll give that a whirl. Literally. I may still install a “tornado” type device near where the pyramid is forming. That will definitely help when having city water pressure. I was really hoping a suggestion would appear with a direct stream type black tank flush, that would give some “significant” pressure when hooked up to the rigs water line (to help solve the boondocking issue). I replaced the faucet valves with the shower style hose end with two washing machine ball valves and connected a washing machine mixer hose, basically a “y” styled hose. I connected a short garden hose (2’) with a black tank flush (camco?) fitting to see what kind of result id get. Not real happy with the pressure or water stream it produced. I didnt install it for the test, just “bench” tested it into the grass. Hitting the highway in a week, hopefully the “rv plunger” will assist in breaking down the pyramid and get things moving. I think ill check the vent pipe if i have time before leaving, in order to rule that out as being an issue.1.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Side by side towing
wowens79 wrote: With the front wheels secured to the bumper, the rear wheels would have to pivot. There is a company that makes a trailer called a swivelwheel, that does this. I don't think have anything that bid though, as TT bumpers are really flimsy. Saw someone using that system a few years ago at the desert. He had a RZR on it. Seemed to work for him.1.4KViews0likes0CommentsRe: I can’t be the only one with a poorly designed black tank.
Campforever wrote: Fill black tank from inside the camper i.e., use a hose and stick in in the toilet close the toilet on the hose and start filling. On mine, with a 40 gallon tank I run it 11 minutes then drain. I do this for about 4 to five cycles or until the water is running clear. When filling from the toilet you should clear out the shelf. Truely not a aftermarket design to benefit the buyer. That is why we adapt, improvise, apply..... Pretty much the exact procedure i do once the pyramid is formed and i have the “luxury” of being hooked up to a city water connection, or when we have to find a dump station somewhere along our travel route (usually bt CA or GA). Luckily Love’s truck stops typically have a dump to access. I probably use 150-200 gallons of water to dump the tank properly. Similar to you it’s about 9-11 minutes between pulling the dump valve. So 4 x 10 minutes is an easy 40 minutes of baby sitting the hose and tank alone. I was hoping my bathroom sink in the toilet “closet” was hooked to the black tank because we rarely use that sink. So id use it more if it was, hoping that would help, but its not.1.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: I can’t be the only one with a poorly designed black tank.
enblethen wrote: I doubt whether you are getting rid of solids in the tank. Something like Drainbo this or similar products to truly breakdown septic tank solids may work. You will have to fill tank to at least half to get it to work. Thanks, but filling the tank even 1/2 way wont get the liquid to “rise” into the shelf area of the tank. But i do understand what you’re saying. Maybe i need fill the tank with water and draino like product and let it sit?195Views0likes0CommentsI can’t be the only one with a poorly designed black tank.
Let me preface, this is not my first rv (it is my 1st Class A pusher) and we have 30+ years experience mostly boon docking, but do spend time in campgrounds also. With that said, two years ago we retired and bought a used 2005 Mandalay Presidio. From the very first trip, at a campground with full hook ups, we were lucky enough to be introduced to a poop pyramid, that literally “exploded” when opening flushing the toilet. Getting black waste everywhere. Wonderful. I always leave water in the bottom of the tank after flushing to assist in breakdown etc. When traveling (and occasionally when parked) there’s always an odor. Traveling down the highway, the poop pyramid has been known to resurface. Every time this occurs i dump the tank as soon as possible, but it doesn’t correct my issue easily and immediately. I now know what the issue is, this is where i need help. The main, large portion of black tank is not directly under the toilet. The inlet from the toilet is at the far right end of tank. This area of the tank might be 10” tall, in theory the solids are supposed to travel along an ever so slight grade, about 12” towards the larger portion of the tank where they are supposed to fall into the a much larger holding area. This is where the sensors are and main capacity of the tank is. The liquids of course run off this “shelf” with no problem. Leaving behind the paper and solids to slowly accumulate. Filling the bowl full of water before flushing only may delay the inevitable, but it eventually rears its ugly head. When dumping the tank the only way to clear this area of the tank is to fill the tank with water to near capacity. There is a factory installed sani flush that is on the top of the tank, but not really anywhere near where the pyramid begins to form. I don’t know how to solve this. I thought i could add another black tank flush where the pyramid forms, which may work, kinda when on city water. I don’t believe the onboard pump will have enough pressure to be effective if i plumb in it a way it could use it when not connected to city water. So frustrated. Any ideas? Sorry i cannot get a good picture of my tank setup to give a better idea. Picture an upside down “L”, or an “L” shape where the long vertical line lays horizontal and the smaller horizontal line is now vertical. Thanks in advance.2.5KViews0likes17CommentsRe: General Quietpac 75D Stopped Running, won’t start
wa8yxm wrote: TechWriter wrote: Fuel pump or hose to RV gas tank could need replacing. Testing the fuel pump is fairly easy . . . disconnect your gen's fuel hose. Then connect another hose that's inside a gas can. Start your gen. If your it runs, then it's probably the pump. NOT on an RV generator no... The fuel pump on most RV generators is external (in-line type) and if you disconnect it and stick a hose into the gas can no gas will flow up into the carb. Easier to disconnect the pump outlet side and stick that hose in a clean 1 gallon glass bottle.. Now hold the STOP switch till the pump starts filling the jug. then touch Start and Stop to kill the pump. IF it pumps. it's good. …….And being a diesel I’m sure the system would need to be primed.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: General Quietpac 75D Stopped Running, won’t start
JimR 1 wrote: Have you tried to run the generator from the generator start stop switches by unplugging the start stop switches from the dash? Small wire bundle (square plug) from the left side of the generator heading toward the dash just unplugs to test the inside switches. Some times those can short out. As I remember the temp sensor is almost directly behind the oil pressure on the back side of the motor, other words about 8 to 10 inches away straight back out of sight unless you pull the right side panel or use a mirror. Should show in the schematics in the manual item 10 page 121 of my manual. Thermo Switch JimR I believe i did try starting it with the remote (dash) switch disconnected. I know i unplugged it when running the diagnoses for the start/stop switch. I’ll try it again once the rain stops, since I don’t remember. I was afraid the temp switch was on the back of the head. I haven’t pulled the top cover off so i wasn’t sure. I guess i should try to access that also just to be certain it’s good. Was hesitant because the way i read and understand it the gen should start and run 5-6 seconds then shut down if either the low oil pressure or temp switch is bad. I am going to try n add oil (reads 1/2 full on dipstick) also before i test the oil pressure switch with my volt/ohm meter. The manual says to top it off before testing, so i figure that wouldn’t hurt. It doesn’t mention anything about a low oil shutdown, but it wont hurt, especially once i get it started. Lol Thanks again for your your insight.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: General Quietpac 75D Stopped Running, won’t start
Yup same generator here! JimR 1 i wanted to thank you for your time, trying to assist me in this. I can read the manual, which is written pretty well for me to understand, but another outlook or explanation sometimes makes things a little clearer. I just pulled off the front cover. And it looks as you described. Found the oil pressure switch. Trying to determine where heat temp switch is, im having trouble following the wires. ** on edit ** i removed. Each #85 wire (blue) from the oil pressure switch. No luck keeping it running with either wire disconnected. Before pulling off the cover i held down the pre-heat switch while starting, i then kept it pressed after i let off the start/stop switch. It kept running, until i let off the pre-heat switch, then it startled to die. Pressed it again and it went back to running. When i tested my pre-heat circuit the other day i didnt test the “pre-heat contactor” i have no idea where thats located and what it looks like. If anyone happens to know.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: General Quietpac 75D Stopped Running, won’t start
TechWriter wrote: Fuel pump or hose to RV gas tank could need replacing. Testing the fuel pump is fairly easy . . . disconnect your gen's fuel hose. Then connect another hose that's inside a gas can. Start your gen. If your it runs, then it's probably the pump. I believe i can hear the fuel pump clicking when i depress the pre-heat switch on the front of the generator. I couldn’t locate it the other day, i believe the pump is behind a removable panel on the bottom of the generator, which I couldn’t get to come off easily. I’ve been having to dodge rain drops for this project…1KViews0likes0Comments
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