All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: How to heat a Class C during the winter.......I have a buddy that had a wood stove in a VW bus. Kept it nice and toasty. One night returning from skiing he put the two drivers side wheels up onto a guard rail of a bridge. I was in back with the wood stove. I realized then, if there was a accident one would not want to be in close proximity with a hot, heavy wood stove.Re: Ford Fuel pump rantFound lowering the tank onto lengths of PVC pipe allowed me to roll the tank out from under the coach quite easily.Re: Ford Fuel pump rantI did the fuel pump replacement in my 2001 E-350 based Chateau sport. Was unable to siphon fuel as there is a roll over check ball. Tried thru the vent line also and was not able to get a siphon thru that either. Used motor cycle tie downs going from frame rail to frame rail to keep tank level and secure while lowering with jack. Take loose hose clamps for filler and vent line. Lower just enough to reach fuel lines (have fuel line quick disconnect tool ready) and electrical connections. Used brass punch and wooden hammer to remove collar holding fuel pump in the tank. Had old pump out and new one in the tank in a couple minutes. Overall even with full tank it was a maybe a 4 hour job. Only spent around $200 for Napa replacement fuel pump. I think in cool conditions,,making sure there are no ignition sources around, no electric tools, battery disconnected, this can be safely done by a reasonably handy person.Re: Engine Oil pnichols wrote: I use Mobil 1 EP (Extended Performance) in our Class C's V10 engine. I switched from standard Mobil 1 to Mobil 1 EP some time ago. I also use Mobil 1 EP in both of our motorhome's generators. Along with Mobil 1 EP, I also use special spark plugs in both generators. The generators run quieter, smoother, and probably more efficiently ... using both the synthetic oil and different spark plugs. Can you tells me about the "Special" spark plugs please? Anything to quiet down that Onan.Re: Trans cooler installation. Matt_Colie wrote: I think that is a spectacular that creative idea. But, I only worked in and around the auto industry for three decades. Matt Thanks Matt. I appreciate the kind words.Re: Trans cooler installation. NTORACN wrote: A unique location to say the least. I think I would have installed it in front of the radiator if it were me. I had 105,000 miles on my 4R100 tranny when I sold the RV last year. I serviced the tranny at 100,000 miles and there was no debris in the pan, I mean none. Great tranny!! If your tranny never ran over 190-195 degrees, you didn't need to add the cooler. I could not squeeze the cooler in there behind the trans cooler, AC rad,stock tranny cooler and power steering cooler. I also felt airflow was very restricted in the usual place. yeah,,It may be overkill but I do make some steep, long hot climbs with toad in eastern Washington state.Re: Trans cooler installation. sljkansas wrote: Nice install. The thing you will need to watch(since it site behind the front wheel)is that the fan and cooler stay clean. your going to throw a lot of dirt and water at it, being where it is mounted. The running boards and mud flaps do a great job of blocking the road debris. I did find a ding in the screen so something did hit it though.Re: Trans cooler installation. CKNSLS wrote: You can OVER COOL a transmission. Heat is what kills a tranny. As we usually only use the MH in the summer I believe I am usually in the 140-170 range.Re: Trans cooler installation. Mich F wrote: I'd hope you won't be running below what the normal operating temperature should be. So far it is anywhere between 140-170. I prefer to err on the cool side. Heat is what kills transmissions.Re: Trans cooler installation. path1 wrote: How hot was it running before you added fan? I think it was usually around 175-185. With a toad on a long pull (Vantage) on a hot day it may have got up around 195.