All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Entry door sag, But no wood frame?Also I stuck a screw driver into the foam about 4" and didnt hit anything solid.Entry door sag, But no wood frame?Hello all, The upper portion of our 2010 Sunybrook entry door has been hitting the frame when you try to close it for some time. If you lift the door up it wont hit in the upper left corner. I know the hings pins are a but worn but not terribly. I did notice however, that the aluminum framing around the door looks to be pulling awar from the skin thus its pulling outward from the hinge. In the picture, the frame I am pointing to, is some of the culprit. That is where the hinge attaches however, that frame is pulling away from the door. After reading and reading, most say the door is made up of a shaved down 2x2 or so piece of wood and likely rotted out or is shotty from the factory. I pulled my door off and lifted the frame slightly as it doesnt seem to want to come off all the way around. Much to my surprise, there is NO wood. It is 100% foam. Per the pics, the screws from the hinge go into the aluminum band and then thats it. They hold dont grab anything after that. It looks as though it was just glued and the glue has let loose. So, my question is, do I just try to spread some new liquid nails in there, clamp it, and see if it holds? I thought about taking some small white screws and running them through where the aluminum lips onto the plastic skin for some extra support. Thoughts? Thank you for any help. The culprit Foam GlueRe: Help with winterizing Sunnybrook harmony thxShoot, Says contains ethyl alchoho...I assume that is no good. What do you recommend and I will drain it all tomorrow and reeling winterize.Re: Help with winterizing Sunnybrook harmony thxThis is what I used. I'm guessing that is not the high dollar stuff? I left it in the tanks and toilet but will drain if it's no good. https://m.lowes.com/pd/Zecol-1-Gallon-Antifreeze/3431862Re: Help with winterizing Sunnybrook harmony thxAll set. Found bypass under the bed. Quesrion....do you guys leave the drained antifreeze in the gray holding tank or do you drain it? Also,do you leave the system pressurized when complete or do you relieve the pressure by opening up a sink valve then done?Re: Help with winterizing Sunnybrook harmony thxI pulled the valves up on the red and white pex and apparently those are drains. Water started draining from a red and white people under the camper. I suppose this is to drain all the water from the system before doing antifreeze? Or maybe to remove antifreeze come summer? Still need to find the hot water bypass.Re: Help with winterizing Sunnybrook harmony thxThanks jerry. I think I have the hoses figured out that go into and out of the pimp. My dilemma is how to bypass the hot water tank. In the lower right you will see tow white tabs on the hot and cold line, they pull out. The second pic is a zoom shot of those valve tabs. I am thinking that my be the bypass somehow but I'm not sure. Otherwise maybe the bypass is under that bed board which is the third pic. If those white tabs are not a byoass, question is what are they? ThanksHelp with winterizing Sunnybrook harmony thxHello. I went to winterize out new to us 2010 harmony thx toy hauler by Sunnybrook and it seems my setup is different than what I have been watching videos for. I will add some pictures of the flow jet. So far I cannot see how to access the back of the water heater to bypass it. The only place is maybe under the bed there is a bolted down board. Could it be under there? What a nightmare if so as it will be hard to get at that with the bed and bed platform struts. Under the sink where the floor jet is, I have added a picture. I have these two little petcock to the right of the flow jet that may be what I am looking for but I am not sure. Per the pic they are circled in red. Not sure what those do. The blue seems to run the cut hose for dipping into rv antifreeze, and the orange is the water line coming from the water storage tank I believe. Any help woupdate be great. Sitting here staring at it now. I also see two blue tabs on the in and out line physically on the pump. Am I suppose to pull those out for anything? Thanks again . Re: GEL Coat options on new to us camper B.O. Plenty wrote: You can buff til the Cows come home. It will last about 2-3 months. Best cure is a quality base coat/ clear coat paint job. All the major manufacturers are doing this as they have had nothing but problems with gel coat caps fading. Look at any five to ten year old rig with a full body paint job and you can see how it holds up. Any big truck bodyshop will be able to do this. They will have a big enough paint booth. B.O. Why will it only last for 2-3 months? This will occur even if I seal it with a quality sealant/wax and store it under a roof?Re: GEL Coat options on new to us camperI noticed this as well, after the detailing was done there was some chaulky white residue on the concrete. He claimed that was the paint and it wouldn't do that if the gel coat was still there... I figured that could be from the roof tho running off onto the sides. Thing was probably never washed up there before. If I go to cut and polish, what goes on after to protect it? Any car sealant work or something rv specific? Thanks all
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