All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Norcold Fridge - Freezer cold, fridge notIt was the thermistor. Flame was strong and blue, couldn't find anything that looked wrong. Decided to test the thermistor by unplugging and letting the fridge run overnight - my bottle of water was slushy in the morning. Bought and installed a new $20 thermistor and tested again overnight, new bottle of water is nice and cold! Thanks all for the tips/pointers!Re: Norcold Fridge - Freezer cold, fridge not mchero wrote: Check the BACKSIDE of the fridge. Are the fan(s) running? My Norcold 4 door did EXACT same thing when one if the 2 rear fans failed. Was told MANY times it was the cooling unit.....NOT! Will definitely check the fan(s), thank you!Re: Norcold Fridge - Freezer cold, fridge not dougrainer wrote: VetPartTimer wrote: Appreciate all the info everyone, thank you kindly! I spoke to Norcold Customer Service, they were very nice and provided much of the same advice that you all have suggested. I'm going to start by unplugging the thermostat and letting it run overnight on the propane to see if that is potentially the problem because it is the easiest. Given that the refrig seems to work fine on AC power, I doubt it's the thermostat (but you never know). Next will be to check for a good blue flame, maybe the valve is dirty. Hope to get to this over the weekend, will certainly update you all on my findings. Thanks again! You are not the only one that thinks the Thermister may possibly be at fault. BUT, that is nonsense. THINK about what you are thinking. The refer operates fine on 120. You have a problem on LP. The refer cooling unit and Thermister has no way of knowing WHAT heat source is ON. ALL it does is respond to the HEAT source. The Thermister is on the Evap fins. HOW would it know what heat source is operating the refer? It does not. Thermister's rarely fail and they never fail over different heat sources. Until you check the LP pressure AT the refer, you will never know what the problem is and you will just be wasting your time. Doug Yes, I totally understand what you are saying.Re: Norcold Fridge - Freezer cold, fridge notAppreciate all the info everyone, thank you kindly! I spoke to Norcold Customer Service, they were very nice and provided much of the same advice that you all have suggested. I'm going to start by unplugging the thermostat and letting it run overnight on the propane to see if that is potentially the problem because it is the easiest. Given that the refrig seems to work fine on AC power, I doubt it's the thermostat (but you never know). Next will be to check for a good blue flame, maybe the valve is dirty. Hope to get to this over the weekend, will certainly update you all on my findings. Thanks again!Norcold Fridge - Freezer cold, fridge not2.5 year old Norcold N611FLT in a 2016 Class A Was dry camping all week at the beach, running the fridge on propane, on the last morning I noticed the milk was not as cold as usual. Drove home, fridge still seemed a little warmer than it should be. Freezer seemed good and cold as usual. Plugged into electric, checked the next day both fridge and freezer are good and cold. Switched it back to propane, checked after another day and freezer was good and cold but fridge is not. I'm level. Was level all week dry camping. Any ideas on what to check?Re: Trading in a Fifth Wheel for a Class AWent from a 40Ft 5th wheel toyhauler / 3500 Crew Cab Dually Diesel to a 31 Ft Class A gasser. Water capacity was probably the biggest adjustment for us. Went from 130 gal to 60 gal (most of our camping is dry camping). Battery power was another - our Class A doesn't have the space (without some major modification) to hold 4 6V batteries. As others have said, the sway and general instability of the Class A takes some getting used to. Towing is quite the chore in the Class A. Lot's of downshifing, engine noise and general slow going on grades. There is usually less sleeping capacity in Class A's. It is definitely easier to maneuver the Class A and I can get into a lot more parks due to the decreased size. Setup in camp is way easier in the Class A. If I had to do it all over again, I would likely step up to the Diesel Class A on the Freightliner frame. Lot's of extra $$ for that though. Also, I have never actually driven a Diesel Class A on the Freightliner frame, am taking everyone's word for it that they are much more stable and powerful. Hope that helps you some . . .Re: Safe method of financial transaction at sale time hoosiermark wrote: Treat it the same as the sale of real estate. Hire a closing attorney/company to handle the transaction and prepare a bill of sale (along with the title) showing the terms-as is where is, no responsibility if something breaks, no warranty, etc. Let the closing agent take care of the money, it can be wired into their account just like a real estate deal. Then the agent can give you a check to deposit into your account. easy and simple. It may cost you a few hundred dollars but could save you thousands. So what companies/attorneys do these escrows? The various big banks said they do not. I couldn't find an escrow attorney. Real Estate escrow companies? I like this idea, just need to be able to find someone reputable that does this for RVs and Boats. Thanks!Re: LA to South Lake Tahoe towing a boatThanks for the awesome info everyone!!!LA to South Lake Tahoe towing a boatHow is the grade going up I-50 from Sacramento to South Lake Tahoe? I've never been on that highway so I have no idea how steep it is or how tight the curves are. I'd like to tow my boat up there with my 31Ft Class A. If it's sketchy I might have to pass on that idea . . . Thanks for the inputRe: Triton V-10 timmac wrote: It works great, every V-10 with the 5 speed needs 5 star, my shift points are so much better and the motor seems stronger as well, I tow 6000 lbs like its 2000 lbs.. Check my profile and see what I tow up the mountains without a issue, note I also have the Banks Power Pack system as well.. How is the V10 with the 6-speed?
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