97 Ford 460 issues
I have a 97 Fleetwood pace arrow vision on the Ford F53 chassis with the 460 v8 gas engine. 33k miles on rig. New aluminum 80 gallon fuel tank and FoMoCo sourced fuel pump. After driving for roughly 2 hours I lose power and can't get over 2k rpms without the engine bucking and shaking, if I continue the check engine light will come on. If I shut off the engine for a minute or more all is normal again after restart though for how long varies. I did have a problem with the distributer bolt being loose and the timing getting messed up which I set as well as I could as due to the design of the dog house I can't get anywhere near seeing the timing marks without putting my face into a spinning fan blade. If anyone has a suggestion on how to fix that issue also I'd appreciate it. Oh before anyone asks the rig is OBD1 even though it's a 97 so pulling a code without the check engine light on doesn't work
2024 Sandpiper 4002FB grey tank issue
Hi everyone, I have a new leftover Forest River Sandpiper 4002FB. It has 2 grey tanks, 2 black tanks and a galley tank. In the front compartment where the water comes in is the valve for the black and galley drain, in the rear on left side behind tires is a black water for rear bathroom and a grey water drain. My grey water #1 is showing full on the gauge but I don’t see a drain for it and camping world has not been any help. I am traveling in Texas and it’s supposed to get down to 13 one night this next week and I’m not sure if tanks are all drained or one is full. Just wondering if anyone else has this model. Hoping it’s just a sensor. ThanksSuburban water heater issue
My brand new suburban sw12del water heater will not work off electric. I didnt know when i turned the switch on in the camper that the rod was out until a few hours later. Installed it and still not working on electric side but will work off propane. I have also flip breaker and reset it but i do not have an outside switch. What could be the problem? Thanks.
Shower Drain Hepvo Valve
Well, I did it this time... I didn't realize my shower was protected by a Hepvo valve, and I used a wire to clear a hair clog. And, I tore the whole valve out of the pipe. Problem is that there is no room to replace it under the shower. There's only 3/4 inch space between the floor and valve, and same between the shower floor and valve. Can't fit a strap wrench on it, there's no way to turn it even if I could. Had an RV repair guy look at it, and he confirmed that I'd have to remove the entire shower to replace this piece. With this valve missing, the smell is terrible while showering. Question: Is there any other type of valve that I could install at the top of the shower drain? Maybe in the catch basket before the water goes down the pipe? Anyone have a suggestion?Windshield continuously pops out.
I bought a used 2000 Fleetwood Bounder 39Z. the previous owner and friend of mine noticed the gasket had come loose on the passenger side top corner. So he had a glass guy reset the glass, so it wasn't leaking. I had it out driving it around and having some minor work done and it was leaking air again. so, I took it to a guy who got it pushed back into place again. it has now come out for a third time and I'm hearing from some other glass companies this is a common issue, but no one seems to know how to fix it or what needs corrected so it doesn't continue to happen. Has anyone had this issue and know of a solution?
Atwood 7920 Furnace Issues - Electrode not sparking
Hi there, I am having issues getting my furnace's electrode to spark. Initial symptom was the furnace powering up the fan, attempting to ignite, and failing. It is in a '96 Elkhorn truck camper, furnace is an Atwood 7920-ii Hydroflame. I took the furnace out and gave it a thorough cleaning - had dust bunnies all around sail switch and a few dead bugs in the burner head/around the propane orifice. Tried again after cleaning and same issue. Determined issue was likely the electrode and went from there. While purchasing a new electrode I also purchased and changed the sail switch and high-limit temp switch; still no fix. My old circuit board was not giving the proper 3-blink error code after going into lockout. It would also make a strange ticking sound during the period where the high-voltage line to the electrode would be receiving power. Replaced the circuit board with a new one. The ticking sound is gone and the board displays the proper 3-blink error code after "ignition lockout mode". Through testing with a multimeter, there is 12V everywhere it should be/when it should be there (relay, high-limit switch, circuit board connections, propane solenoids). I noticed there is about 20 ohms resistance between the coils on the propane valve - several places say this is normal but the Atwood troubleshooting manual says they should be above 30ohms. I would return to this as a potential issue if the electrode was firing. I have read every post I could find on several forums and talked to a couple RV techs on the phone, and everyone suggests that this issue is either circuit board or electrode. My only guess at this point is that the circuit board arrived DOA. My assumption now is that the issue was always the circuit board, and the new one is defective also (I bought a $50 cheapy board). I have now ordered a Dinosaur Board and sent up a couple prayers. No heat in the winter in Canada is less than ideal! Any help would be appreciated.
Refrigerator works not-level only
I have been playing around with my refrigerator for 2 years, it only seems to work with the RV slightly higher in the front. I have been using my Bodega cooker in my RV because the refrigerator never works at a camp site that is level. I just got home and was unloading the RV, I always turn on the unit to see if it wants to cool. Sure enough the rv is off in the front, I look at my thermostat I keep in the unit and it’s cold now. Picture of my level below, using the door as a reference
Hissing noise
Hey so I recently got displaced cause the hurricane and I got put into this small camper with my German Shepherd it's a jayco brand but that's all I know. It has a pop up tent like feature on the front of it. And this runs off a generator also but the noise is coming from the breaker box and when I turn the stove light on it gets quieter... Same as the sink light and radio either way when I turn something on the noise gets quieter what can I do to fix this?? Please email me at bubba88lusk@gmail.com or reply here
