Lifting my class C
I have a new-to-me Class C, a 1997 Four Winds, 23ft long. Often, when I enter a gas station or other driveway, I drag my butt on the pavement. Technically, I drag the hitch (see pic below). I'm afraid this will get worse when I'm towing my 7x14 trailer that will carry my motorcycle. I also want to go onto dirt roads and perhaps a tiny bit offroad to do some boondocking. This picture shows the problem: And how low the hitch has been placed is making it worse: My options seem to be: add castor wheels raise the vehicle permanently with a lift kit; I've identified one for $2k (installation extra) that will do the job raise the vehicle on-demand with air bags raise the hitch a combination of the above I'm sorting through the options and, as this is my first RV, I'm learning fast. A few notes and tips I've learned from others: the lift kit will bring up the entire rig by 5", front and back the geometry of this type of vehicle does not allow for many good options (agreed! who designed this with so much cabin behind the rear wheel?); the person who mentioned this to me stressed getting castor wheels no matter what else I do like the castor wheels, I've been advised to add airbags no matter what as this helps firm up the rear when loaded with the trailer; this person also suggested foregoing the lift kit and just going with the castor wheels and air bags because lifting the entire rig will make the steering less safe. This makes sense to me and I'm leaning toward this (castor wheels plus air bags, no lift kit). But the problem is made much worse with the hitch placement. My question to the folks here is whether the hitch can be raised in some way. The visible part appears to be attached to a long bar that appears, in turn, to be attached to the frame. Is there a hitch design that isn't so low? It looks like that alone would give me four more precious inches. Then again, with the wheels and airbags, maybe lifting the hitch isn't necessary. Perhaps I should spend only a bit of time and money since I expect this to be my training rig to be upgraded within 24 months. Thoughts? Edit: got the pictures in21KViews1like79Comments
Owner manuals 1981 Ford Chateau Scamper Class C Motorhome
I have been searching for a copy of the owners manual for my motorhome to no avail. Does anybody have a cutaway motorhome with a Ford 400 engine. There are so many unmarked controls, switches, and togglesuperstore we don't know what operates what. The appliances are straight forward, it's the other unamed stuff we are having issues with. Anyone with a like type Class C cutaway motorhome that has manuals, give or take a few years, could you share via scanning. It would be a very appreciated gesture. Happy camping! Empty-nester21.2KViews1like2CommentsFront Seat That Swivels Upgrade W/Pic
I really missed having seats that swiveled like I had on my old Class A.Now that I have a smaller Class C. So I looked around and found only one place that sold an aftermarket swivel and found out that another RV.NET poster had done it,thanks scroller95969, so I ordered it and installed it. This is how it went. First you remove the seat to expose the seat base. Then you install the Swivel,This thing is not light.It weighs over 34 lbs.It is made out of 1/8in steel and very sturdy. One note here,some of the holes don't line up and have to be reamed out a little to fit. I suggest that this is done on a bench and is test fitted before install it is too heavy to be messing with any other way. The Bolts that are supplied are Grade 8 with NyLock nuts,this thing is not going any where!! Also in the in the pic you will notice the lift bar that lets you pull up to swivel the seat.It came straight,it is about 5 inches long and I thought it may pose a hazard so I heated it and bent it 90 degrees so it will tuck under the seat somewhat. I then installed the seat and this is how it looked before. And after, giving me more room,an extra seat, and opening up the whole thing. This is it turned and pushed against the dash with the back upright. This is it in the full recline position,it may be adjusted to any angle you want of course. Just move it on the slider as you would when it is in it's forward position. It works both ways for which ever way you want and still swivels to give you as much room that you want. This mod was for the stock seats but they also make ones for after market and for different brands of RV chassis. It should be noted that it also raised the seat about 2 inches. I bought this at Shop 4 Seats They also sell swivel bases for other seats They are made to order,they are not off the shelf items.So if you order make sure that all your measurements are right.They are quite helpful on the phone. It takes about 3 weeks to get them,they are about 15 miles from me so I had them on will call and saved the shipping. It worked out very well and the seat swivels just great. It is easier to open the door and do the swivel and it misses the dog house and everything just fine. If you do this Mod, post a picture of yours, so we all can see! Like This one from loweryfarris on page 488KViews1like84Comments
Toyota Motorhome Modifications and additions FYI
Hello. I thought it might be helpful if I list a bunch of things I've added or modified to my RV here to help anybody out who might be wanting to do similar things to their RV and has questions about any of the brands I've used or how-to's. I'm new to forums like this, so if this post is annoying or awful please tell me, I'll take it down. 1992 Toyota Motorhome- Itasca Spirit - 3VZE V6 3.0L 105,447 miles Everything works. This RV is setup for boondocking. The only thing I have never even attempted to use is the hot water heater. I've never wanted or needed warm water to come out of the faucet. I've owned this RV since 52,000 miles on the odometer (6 years-third owner). I've driven across the US 4 times in it. I lived more than a year straight in it in California, so when I say everything works and nothing leaks, I mean it. I never get less than 11.9 MPG and the highest I've gotten with a full load including a motorcycle on the rack is 15.7 MPG on the highway. Anybody who tells you they get better than that in one of these Toyota motorhomes is probably full of ****. OR really smart and I'm interested in hearing what they've done (driving under 55mph does not count) There's an inside and outside shower. I use the inside shower for storage. I'm just going to list everything I've repaired or added or changed to the original RV: First off, I just finished tearing apart and rebuilding my entire roof/ceiling. I posted pics of that in another topic. If you're interested in that, check it out. -new Dicor Diflex ii TPO roof- This gets installed texture side UP. If you're like me and bought the material and then had no way of telling which way to install it, after calling dicor I got an answer and hopefully they'll amend their website installation instructions. -new O2 sensor (denso OEM) -new fuel injectors (denso OEM) -new valves and timing belt etc. #6 valve was out of spec and knowing that the timing belt could be changed and the head gaskets, i had it all done at once less than a year ago around 95,000 miles on the odometer. 2 year / 20,000 mile warranty on the repair work. Best mechanic I've ever had. -height marker lights are all bright LED bulbs -Taillights and reverse lights are LED bulbs -all of the interior lights are LED bulbs -the two roof vents are new. -the holding tank vent tops are new -the roof top AC is a brand new Dometic 13500 BTU duo therm brisk 2 (installed in may to save weight and replace older coleman AC) -rear leaf springs recurved and springs added by Deaver Springs in California. They are the best suspension company in the US. this motorhome drives like a car. -all new brakes, calipers on rear and new brake lines and new caliper on front left. -hankook tires with good tread left, 8 ply for heavier weight than this motorhome would ever carry -removed the 2k generator and replaced with 2 deep cycle 6volt Vmax Tanks 235 Amp Hour for solar power -3 Renogy 100 Watt solar panels (the solar system powers everything except the A/C. it would turn the A/C on and run for a bit, but you can see the battery losing power on the charge controller screen. i keep the fridge on Gas setting unless I've plugged into shore power, which is 30 Amp) -8020.net Aluminum grid built on roof so none of the solar panels penetrate the rooftop. Nice to have a grid to install components onto and yes, I mounted it to the roof, but I will never change where it's mounted. Beats putting 20+ screws into the roof for the solar panels alone. -1000 Watt AIMS inverter/charger True Sine Wave, best for computers and sensitive electronics. -top of the line Renogy Charge Controller. I've never killed the batteries completely. This charge controller is great -WIFI rear video camera (turns on / off with a little switch and transmits signal to my iPhone or Android phone up front in the cab) -replaced the cooling component of the Dometic fridge with one refurbished by Amish through eBay. I keep it at 4 or 5 on the dial and have to be careful because it will freeze eggs at that temp. it stays below 40 degrees no problem on electric or propane. I've left town and kept the fridge running for as long as 25 days without refilling propane tank. -this RV has its own WIFI network using a Bullet M2 Titanium with 8.5 DBI antenna and a WIFI router. All of this turns on with the flick of a little switch and then I use my laptop to choose and login to a WIFI network. It can reach unto 2000 feet with clear line of sight. I would go to the beach along the california coast and have no problem repeating WIFI signal from hundreds of feet away. google this setup and you'll find other people reporting using the Bullet to do the same thing. I love having it. -battery on/off switch for Solar Bank -battery selector switch between the 2 6volt batteries connected to Solar Power system or the 12 volt Deep cycle marine battery that charges off the Toyota's alternator. switch has batt 1, batt 2, or OFF selection. -bilstein shock absorbers for Toyota Motorhome -replaced the original airbags on the rear axle with the same type. they are helper bags, not necessarily weight bearing. I keep 40 PSI in both regularly. Maybe 50 with the motorcycle on the rear rack. -carpet removed and bamboo flooring installed. one of the best things I could've ever done. -front upper window was replaced after original tempered glass one shattered on the highway. replaced with a plexiglass one. it's been great. -dinette table was replaced with a custom tempered glass top. I keep a nautical chart under the glass, but it's easily removed with 4 screws and anything could be laid under the glass, photos, maps, etc. -fridge vent fan with automatic thermal sensor for on/off function. also switches on/off with e little switch. this helps the induction fridge about 5 degrees cooler under operation. -new ceramic Dometic toilet, not that cheap plastic one like so many others have -all new plastic blinds in coach windows -rear bumper is reinforced with steel plate and rectangular channel to carry the extra weight of motorcycle. -11.5 foot long Carefree Awning. This awning is custom made and so awesome. the easiest awning I've ever tried. everything is self-contained when put away. very smart design. and color matches the blue colors on the outside of the RV. -CD player/radio/USB port -exhaust -trailer tongue crank for taking pressure off the rear suspension and stabilizing the RV when I'm camping. This has proven to be handy on several occasions. When the motorcycle is on the back, I like to take the weight off of the suspension. it's very handy. -new impeller blades on the heater, which works great and I've used it many times. this RV is efficient at heating/cooling. -12v 6" oscillating fan. great for comfortable sleeping in full size bed over the cab. -30 Amp Relay Transfer Switch switches between solar and shore power automatically so fast nothing turns off. -front cab window cover for the inside. adds more security to the RV and allows you to enter the cab area without giving up your privacy. -MaxxAir fan with 10 speeds and MaxxAir vent cover with the speedy clips for tool-free installation and removal for access to vent. such a great fan. -I reinforced the closet walls and permanently installed wooden shelves. My Xtend & Climb telescopic ladder fits in the closet perfectly. These ladders are a must-have. Mine's about 12' tall and I've used it for all kinds of things while camping.2.5KViews1like6CommentsBuying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?
While researching these pages for my next Motor Home I saw a few threads discussing Rentals, most were Pros and Cons but very few posts from people who had purchased one. I thought it may be a good resource and helpful to hear from these people. The good, the bad, what they liked and what they didn’t. Also if they had any problems, things they changed, if they would recommend this to others or do it again. Here is my story: I am not a novice, having owned a Class A for more than 15 years and doing the camping thing with my wife and two daughters, I can say “been there done that” But life changes, and I sold everything so I have been away from this for several years. Starting over I lurked here for a while and got a lot of good insight then went looking. My criteria was: A Class C within by budget, less than 30 feet so I can keep it at home, saving storage $, a rear bed, and a lot of storage space. What fit that was Winnebago, Fleetwood and a few others, what I found mostly was Jamboree / Tioga 26Q. In the year models 2002 thru 2006. I did my home work looking at NADA and other sites to find the fair prices for the models that I was looking for. After several months of searching the internet, Craigslist, private ads and Dealerships for a Class C that suited my budget and needs, this is what I found. Of the dozen or so I inquired about.Most were upsidedown in their payments, owing more than they were worth. All were on Ford Chassis, 7 needed tires, all had the original 7 to 10 year old tires, and they all needed repair of the awning and most needed some work inside or out and the maintenance records were sketchy, but most had low mileage. The Dealerships offerings were better but they had a profit margin to maintain so I got older models within my budget or huge up sales that didn’t work for me. My next step was looking at the rental market for sales. In my area there are 2 large companies that have rental sales, Cruise America and El Monte RV,who also sell Class A RVs. First up was El Monte RV Their units are production RVs that are made by major manufactures, with TV antennas and hookups inside and out, Ducted A/C and heat, 2 house batteries, a rear ladder and parts are readily available from those manufacture’s. I looked at their web site and it detailed their warranty and what was checked and serviced by their factory trained technicians. The unit I looked at was like new inside, the upholstery on all the seats was new as was the floor mat in the driver’s area, it had a new mattress, still in plastic and a new bedspread. All of the curtains were new also. Newer (2010 mfg date) tires with 98% rubber and the mileage was ninety thousand (90,000). Then there was Cruise America: Their units that I looked at seemed to be Spartan,no TV antenna or hookups for one,non-ducted A/C,small counter space and only one battery, no rear ladder for inspection and maintenance of roof and built just for them, they were all “refreshed” their words not mine. They offered extended warranties at a huge cost. All had high mileage, one hundred and thirty thousand (130,000) or more and the price range seemed a little high. The sales staff had a take it or leave it attitude and were not very forthcoming when asked about maintenance records and service,they claim to have proprietary info in those records,It doesn't seem to be a problem for El Monte RV. At El Monte RV I took a test ride; This Unit was a 2006 Tioga 26Q on a Chevrolet Chassis it rode Drove and handled much better than the Fords that I had driven. It also had more leg room and was quieter. We got back and I asked about the service and maintenance on it, the salesman, Joey, handed me a 28 page single spaced document asked if I wanted some coffee or something to drink and said “read this and if you have any questions I will answer them”. It detailed everything that was done before and after each rental, the mileage, generator hours and hours billed. Each time it was washed and detailed inside and outside, all fluids were checked and replenished if needed, the holding tanks were washed, LP system was checked for leaks, all torque on wheel lugs were checked, brakes front and rear checked for wear and cracks, pressure in tires, all appliances, generator oil, lights inside and outside, the list goes on and on. It also listed all oil changes,coolant change,trans service,fuel injector service and cleaning,fuel filters,air filter, new brakes, all repairs and replacements all with date, mileage and time spent in complete detail from day one to when it was pulled from the rental fleet and was refurbished. I have a complete service record on this vehicle.Also the service records on the Onan Generator,all oil changes,air filter and spark plug replacement with hours and date. I negotiated a good deal with them and am very happy with my purchase. It came with a 1 yr. 12000 mile power train warranty and 30 day on all appliances. It also came with a 28 page maintenance record that detailed everything. Also the original sales packet from Fleetwood with the manual and serial numbers on all appliances,refrigerator, microwave,furnace, AC, water heater, etc. and the manual for the Chassis. I have had no problems with it so far. (ON EDIT) 5 Years and close to 14000 miles.Just Scheduled Maintenance and new tires,old ones were at the 5 year mark and I wanted new Michelin LTX M/S2s. There were a few things that it didn’t have as it was a rental and the ones from private parties did have. • Power steps, outside Stereo/CD don’t need or want them. • An Awning, this I wanted and had installed. A Swivel Seat and a new Window in The Door that I installed. • Wheel Simulators, I like the looks so I had them installed and at the same time had Tire Man valve stem kit put on. • Replaced the Chinese WFCO with a US Made converter/charger • It came with mini blinds and not the day/night that most have, these are more practical and have a lot less failure. It also came with Stainless Steel sinks,easier to maintain than the cheap plastic ones that come in the noncommercial units. I am very happy with my Rig, it suites my needs and it was in my Budget range, I think I got a good deal. So if you bought a rental please share your experience here for others to use as a resource. Or if there are any other questions that have not been covered in these pages, just ask, there are many helpful people on this thread.633KViews1like1715Comments
Electrical questions
I’ll try to get everything in some semblance of order in hopes that it might help sort things out. Recently purchased a 27.5 ft 1993 Firan Telstar (on Ford E350 chassis) with 56K miles on it that had sat for a few years. Knowing that it has sat I expect to have issues and will be working my way through them but I’d like to start with some electrical things that I have just noticed. Some of these may be normal but I have no frame of reference (first MH) so I am looking for any enlightenment that might be available. I started my probing with the generator, an Onan Microquiet 4000 with only 93 hours on the meter. The first time I attempted to start it I did not know if I should disconnect the shore power or propane or whatever so I left everything hooked up and hit the start button. As soon as I hit the button my propane detector started beeping so I shut the propane off and proceeded with the genie. It would crank but not start and occasionally it would just click but usually it would crank like crazy but not fire. I shot a little ether into the intake and it would fire but immediately shut down so I figured some kind of fuel issue and moved on (short on time and would get back to it later). Well later was about two weeks later and this time I get only the rapid click (relay?) when trying to start. It won’t crank just clicks. So now I need to check if I am getting sufficient power to the solenoid but I have a couple of issues here. First I have no multi meter (long story but it is being replaced this week) so I just want to check connections, etc. I realized that I don’t know if the generator receives power to start from the chassis battery (brand new last week) or the coach/house batteries. As I worked through this it seems that it is the house batteries. Now here is how I came to that conclusion but tell me if I missed something. If I switch the battery disconnect to the off position I get nothing at all – no click, nothing. I started the vehicle and tried the generator and still nothing. When I turn the disconnect back on I get the rapid clicking. Now I know that there are two house batteries and though they look real clean they are probably a bit old. They run everything in the MH though if I disconnect from shore power and they seem to perform really well. Here is where I discovered a bit of an electrical oddity. We have a multi speed vent fan in the rear of the coach and since we have had it home we keep it connected to shore power all the time. The fan works on all speeds but is very loud so I figured in time I’d replace it. Today when disconnected from shore power I turned the fan on and it works great at all speeds with no loudness at all – it whispers. Hooked back up to shore power and it gets loud again. Not sure if this is normal but I wouldn’t think so. OK, so I have the fan issue with the difference between shore power and battery. I have the generator no crank issue and I am unsure about whether or not it is getting sufficient juice to crank it. Also the fact that the propane sniffer beeps any time I hit the generator start button – not sure if that is normal or not. Once I get my multi meter I can check and see about the power but I am not sure exactly what to check and what to check it for. Is there a way to jump the generator from another vehicle or from the chassis battery? If I can start eliminating things one at a time I figure I can get something accomplished. I know that the house batteries are probably not new but they do seem to perform quite well when needed for other things. What is the best way to check the batteries? If they are good and I still get the click only, what is the next check? Sorry for the windy and rambling post but there are a few issues that seem to be intertwined.3.5KViews1like19Comments1993 Firan Telstar
I know this is after the fact, since I already purchased this and am picking it up today but...does anyone know much about these coaches, in general? My walk through and look over was not as in-depth as some and I'm sure I missed a lot of things but I am willing to deal with that because I know how I am. What I'm looking for here is anything that anyone knows of, or has something to offer about, the Firan Telstars. This one is a 1993, 27 1/2 ft on an E350 chassis. 55K miles and seems to be in very good condition. Clean inside and out and seems to have been garage kept for all, or most of, its life. I am new to MH ownership (selling my 35 ft TT) and won't be using this a lot but will occasionally make some short trips and one longer one (to Florida) each year. Not looking for validation, just thoughts, opinions or experiences. Thanks gang.1.9KViews1like2Comments
Motorcycle on a hitch?
So, I'm a newby here guys. My name's Rob and I haven't bought my RV yet, but it's just a very short time away, as I am getting a sizeable settlement soon. That being said, I am certainly buying one and it will MOST likely be a class C but I may explore other options. I live in a large metropolitan area and will be living in the RV full time, shortly after the acquisition. It would obviously be wise to have a secondary means of transportation to save on fuel costs and relieve myself of the difficulty of navigating a very large vehicle, through city streets on a daily basis. I plan on buying a motorcycle as my second vehicle and wish to carry it with me wherever I go... (NOTE: I won't be traveling much. I primarily plan on staying pretty close to my hometown, as it is my comfort zone and I like it here, though I may make the occasional trip several times a year for the adventure of it.) I have watched a few videos of people carrying full sized bikes on their hitches with minimal modification but have one thing that keeps popping up in my mind every time I entertain the idea or explore the concept: Do I need to or would it behoove me to strengthen my rear suspension system with a more progressive or "longer-travel" shock??? My bike will be 550lbs. That is the equivalent of two 225lb. guys in the back of the RV... Should my factory shocks be able to handle driving on a regular basis with that amount of weight welded to the tongue of my hitch? I dunno! Are there any people here that have experience (preferably not opinions) with this type of scenario? I would love to hear what you have gone through and how your actions have either helped or hurt you. Looking forward to good reading in this thread. Thanks guys and gals!6.2KViews1like14CommentsMinnie or Spirit 25B questions
I currently have a 2004 Minnie 22E and are looking to upgrade to one with a bed in the back. The 25B has the dinette on the passenger side and a jackknife sofa on the driver's side like our does. We really like this configuration. Only cons are it's built on the E-350 chassis instead of the E-450, black tank holds only 23 gallons and gray 27. Our's holds 30 and 32. Question, does only the toilet only dump into the black or is it like mine and the sink also does. Shower and kitchen sink go into the gray. On my Minnie, the batteries are in a separate exterior compartment and it appears that on the 25B they are in the step. Question, are there 2 batteries (probably group 24) and is there room for 2 Trojan 6 volt batteries when replaced? My Minnie has a 138" wheel base and the 25B has 182". That's a plus. Now the big question, my Minnie only has 660LBS of CCC, that's after water, fuel and people. Not much!. Any idea what the 25B has? 25B does have the 5 speed transmission, our is 4 speed. I would guess the MPG is going to be about the same as I am getting now on the 22E which is 8.5-10mpg. Any comments?3.9KViews1like13Comments
How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?
I'm new here, and curious. How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge _Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978 Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis. Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that would be considered "entry level" for folks like me, but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real good support group, and help each other with problems we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle. Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud of my old land yacht. Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh, Mark aka White Knight P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K1.2MViews1like8369Comments