There are tens of thousands of indigenous now señor Almot. Maneadero, Colonet, Colonia Guerrero, San Quintin, Vizcaino, and Cd Constitucion. Vizcaino has more than seventy old school buses hauling them from labor encampments to the fields. Truck drivers collect $50 pesos each from each migrant and one truck may have a hundred little people squeezed into it. A life's savings to get to the fields in Baja California from Oaxaca or Guerrero. Goddamned Canadians own many farms north of San Quintin, and haul a box of tomatoes or cucumbers to Canada and you folks up there know how embarrassingly cheap fruit and vegetables cost in Canada. I saw a ninety-thousand dollar BMW with Ontario plates waiting at the gate of a berry farm a couple of days ago as I passed by. Gringos are to blame as well, including snotty rich Mexicanos.
While some folks watch monster truck events on TV and belch beer suds I may be talking to an indigenous at mercado sotres, or in front of my doctor's office. It helps me to measure the pulse of la republica. In Vizcaino I purchase everything I can from sidewalk vendors. Fruit, vegetables, fish, you name it. The vendors are all indigenous. I barter gently if at all.
It is positively amazing...
A 100,000 dollar motorhome eases it's way down the street. The occupants have blinders on. They don't see you or anyone else. Nose to nose you can give a little wave and they look right through you. Obviously you are part of the exhibit and they are coming to Mexico despite the Mexicans. You really have to see and experience this to believe it. And horrible as it sounds it is not just a tiny percentage of seniors in extremely expensive rigs that act this way. I've got many many days, weeks and months of sitting in the enramada of the mother of my son-in-law Jesus, and the same thing happens. It's not that they don't look straight at you, but as the rig crawls across a tope they ignore a small friendly wave and sometimes scowl. As far as I'm concerned that breed of American can stay home. Why do folks in less opulent rigs act normal? I put on an act for the ten or so Mexican diners in the enramada a few years ago. I explained what I was about to do, and they all grinned. About a half hour or so, here comes a huge KOUNTRY KOACH. What? A hundred grand? Sure enough the woman looked straight through me, I stick my thumbs in my ears and blew her a regulation Bronx Cheer. She scowled so hard her face must have been near to cracking and falling off. The diners went nuts. One poor old gent coughed and hacked while sipping a cerveza. I got slapped on the back, and received ear-to-ear smiles and a wipe of a tear. How depressing...
Didn't want to say this but in Sn Quintin, I gave the raised clenched fist "Andele!" to the group of sign bearers and they responded with cheers and whistles.