Los Barriles - The Gringo Paradise
All down the Baja I kept running into folks headed for Los Barriles. From the description in both the Moon book and the Churches book it sounded like a nice sleepy little place. This is my first time to this part of the Baja. When I was first coming here you had to fly into this place. People raved about LB.
Many of those same folks sang the praises of East Cape RV Park.
So it was with some anticipation that I left La Paz and headed for Los Barriles.
The drive is nice and becomes beautiful the closer you get to LB. A nice easy drive from La Paz.
As we drove down the main street from the highway toward the “beach road” we noticed first of all that most of the signs were in English. The Real Estate companies outnumber almost any other business. At restaurants menus are all in English with things like Club Sandwiches. There are Bakeries not Panaderias.
This little town has everything one could need for sure and much more.
The setting is beautiful and the beach is gorgeous. But it can be a bit difficult to get to unless you own one of the large houses that dominate the waterfront or stay at the Hotel.
I am ensconced at Martin Verdugos and generally like it, with some reservations. The people who run it are wonderful…I wish I could say the same for some of the guests. Most are friendly and welcoming but since most are here to do one thing, and that is Sailboard or Kite Boarding (ok that’s two things but they are both sails, small boards and water) there is little to talk about unless this is your sport of choice. I have to say it is encouraging to see so many of my fellow Sexagenarians keeping fit and active. ( Note to moderator: that is the Official term please see the dictionary)
There is a lot to like here but somehow it’s missing something. I feel more like I am in a Southern California beach town than Baja.
Our first foray into Los Barriles dining was a bit disappointing. We first went to what must be the only restaurant in Mexico that does not serve beer, Calebs Café. We were hot and tired, hungry and we wanted lunch and a cold beer. Almost everything on the menu could have come from a Denny’s lunch menu. We ended up at a place down the street called La Vieja. Well at least they had beer, the food was OK. And every table was full of, old white men and their wives from North America. Not a single Mexican in the place except for staff. The menu was all in English. So far the best food we’ve eaten are the Tamales a young woman sells out of a street stall across from Chapitos Grocery store.
Now this was unusual for all of our previous journey, often we were the only North Americans in a place. Generally food has been excellent and cheap. We never saw a menu in ALL English. Yes some had translations some did not. But Spanish was always the predominate menu language. And I always greet the staff in Spanish and order in Spanish and speak in Spanish...yet I still keep getting those English Menus.
Later I had asked at the office for a place to eat that was more “typical” more Local and got some suggestions. When we went to one of them we were of course given menus in English. I asked for the menu in Spanish. When it came the prices were the same but some of the choices differed…they were more typically Mexican.
We spent two days here driving around and walking around to orient ourselves and see what we could find on the back streets. There have been a few pleasant surprises up the back lanes. The locals are very friendly and ALL seem to speak near perfect English.
I think this is a great place for those that don’t want to speak Spanish to anyone, or simply cant even order a beer in Spanish. It is also great place if you are looking to buy a house in the $200k to $900K range. Some are stunning and many right on the water. It is also a great place for water/wind sports. Many are here full time or for the season. Some are just old Baja Rat,s a species well known to anyone like me who grew up in So. Cal and came here often.
The much touted East Cape RV Park I toured driving my new Dodge Pickup. I sensed an immediate hostility from those who stood by watching me go past. Not a smile not a wave just hard looks. I felt like I was driving Jed Clampets pick up and dressed like a hillbilly instead of a $50 thousand dollar Ram Pickup. I was being sure to drive slowly as that seems to be their main concern given the 10 signs you see in the first 100 feet after entering.
This park is beautiful with its trees and shrubs and quaint little casitas all drooping with bougainvillea. But where I asked, are the RV spaces? The trailers are so cleverly hidden behind walls and coverings that you’d never know you were in an RV Park. I found only a few spaces that might have been available. I left (slowly) shaking my head and wondering what was so special. I liked Martin Verdugos better. At least you have direct access to the beach even if the spaces are very tight. And some people wave and smile and actually say “Hello”.
All in all I am very conflicted about Los Barriles. There are parts I like, it’s setting, it’s beach and it’s friendliness (at least among the locals) but there is something off kilter here. It’s too North American-Centric. Too concerned with being “Gringo User Friendly”. And it takes itself a bit too seriously.
Yesterday I headed down the coast to La Ribera and Cabo Pulmo and found some of what I was thinking LB might be more like. I will be moving down there soon.
Many of those same folks sang the praises of East Cape RV Park.
So it was with some anticipation that I left La Paz and headed for Los Barriles.
The drive is nice and becomes beautiful the closer you get to LB. A nice easy drive from La Paz.
As we drove down the main street from the highway toward the “beach road” we noticed first of all that most of the signs were in English. The Real Estate companies outnumber almost any other business. At restaurants menus are all in English with things like Club Sandwiches. There are Bakeries not Panaderias.
This little town has everything one could need for sure and much more.
The setting is beautiful and the beach is gorgeous. But it can be a bit difficult to get to unless you own one of the large houses that dominate the waterfront or stay at the Hotel.
I am ensconced at Martin Verdugos and generally like it, with some reservations. The people who run it are wonderful…I wish I could say the same for some of the guests. Most are friendly and welcoming but since most are here to do one thing, and that is Sailboard or Kite Boarding (ok that’s two things but they are both sails, small boards and water) there is little to talk about unless this is your sport of choice. I have to say it is encouraging to see so many of my fellow Sexagenarians keeping fit and active. ( Note to moderator: that is the Official term please see the dictionary)
There is a lot to like here but somehow it’s missing something. I feel more like I am in a Southern California beach town than Baja.
Our first foray into Los Barriles dining was a bit disappointing. We first went to what must be the only restaurant in Mexico that does not serve beer, Calebs Café. We were hot and tired, hungry and we wanted lunch and a cold beer. Almost everything on the menu could have come from a Denny’s lunch menu. We ended up at a place down the street called La Vieja. Well at least they had beer, the food was OK. And every table was full of, old white men and their wives from North America. Not a single Mexican in the place except for staff. The menu was all in English. So far the best food we’ve eaten are the Tamales a young woman sells out of a street stall across from Chapitos Grocery store.
Now this was unusual for all of our previous journey, often we were the only North Americans in a place. Generally food has been excellent and cheap. We never saw a menu in ALL English. Yes some had translations some did not. But Spanish was always the predominate menu language. And I always greet the staff in Spanish and order in Spanish and speak in Spanish...yet I still keep getting those English Menus.
Later I had asked at the office for a place to eat that was more “typical” more Local and got some suggestions. When we went to one of them we were of course given menus in English. I asked for the menu in Spanish. When it came the prices were the same but some of the choices differed…they were more typically Mexican.
We spent two days here driving around and walking around to orient ourselves and see what we could find on the back streets. There have been a few pleasant surprises up the back lanes. The locals are very friendly and ALL seem to speak near perfect English.
I think this is a great place for those that don’t want to speak Spanish to anyone, or simply cant even order a beer in Spanish. It is also great place if you are looking to buy a house in the $200k to $900K range. Some are stunning and many right on the water. It is also a great place for water/wind sports. Many are here full time or for the season. Some are just old Baja Rat,s a species well known to anyone like me who grew up in So. Cal and came here often.
The much touted East Cape RV Park I toured driving my new Dodge Pickup. I sensed an immediate hostility from those who stood by watching me go past. Not a smile not a wave just hard looks. I felt like I was driving Jed Clampets pick up and dressed like a hillbilly instead of a $50 thousand dollar Ram Pickup. I was being sure to drive slowly as that seems to be their main concern given the 10 signs you see in the first 100 feet after entering.
This park is beautiful with its trees and shrubs and quaint little casitas all drooping with bougainvillea. But where I asked, are the RV spaces? The trailers are so cleverly hidden behind walls and coverings that you’d never know you were in an RV Park. I found only a few spaces that might have been available. I left (slowly) shaking my head and wondering what was so special. I liked Martin Verdugos better. At least you have direct access to the beach even if the spaces are very tight. And some people wave and smile and actually say “Hello”.
All in all I am very conflicted about Los Barriles. There are parts I like, it’s setting, it’s beach and it’s friendliness (at least among the locals) but there is something off kilter here. It’s too North American-Centric. Too concerned with being “Gringo User Friendly”. And it takes itself a bit too seriously.
Yesterday I headed down the coast to La Ribera and Cabo Pulmo and found some of what I was thinking LB might be more like. I will be moving down there soon.
