Adding a new 120 vac circuit and outlet

Mine new circuit starts with a storage area plug on a unused circuit. It has 2 drops and both are located inside of a cabinet for easy space heater use and storage. Back to the plug in the storage area where the new circuit uses a standard male plug. When I'm on a 30A pedestal and need the heater I run an extension cord to an available pedestal plug.

Here is how I did it for our trailer.
Barney

“When I'm on a 30A pedestal and need the heater I run an extension cord to an available pedestal plug.”

This is my plan.

I agree with Lwiddis. I learned the hard way not to pull everything through the 30 amp RV plug. A separate extension fished out through the slide seal and back to the pedestal solved the problem. Good job on the wiring and outlet though.

I have have found no trouble running my electric space heater from an existing outlet continuously for days on end.
Although I generally keep the fridge and water set to propane.

BarneyS wrote:
Here is how I did it for our trailer.
Barney

That's a really good idea too, then you can run it from the other outlet on the power pedestal.

I have been thinking the same thing for my class C. Then I saw This post and it does seem doable.

But my thought would be to use One of These they come in different lengths and I could put it where I wanted it.

The National Parks campground where we do most of our camping has the pedestals wired in such a way that you can't get any additional power by using the 15A receptacle. They have the 15A breaker and the 30A receptacle fed from the 30A breaker. So the total amount of power available is only what the 30A breaker will allow. I wonder how many other campgrounds are that way.

"But my thought would be to use One of These they come in different lengths and I could put it where I wanted it."

The 6' version is what I'll be installing on ours.

Gary

I appreciated the OP's video until he got to the part where he decided to scrap the RV outlet and use a standard outlet, then proceeded to connect wires to the terminal screws. Using screw connections in a vibration-prone environment is risky, since the screws can loosen. A better choice would be to use the spring-loaded speed connectors in the back of many devices, since those maintain positive pressure in all conditions.

A lot of people think RV outlets are cheap for the RV manufacture, but in fact, they are more expensive but designed and approved for that environment. When properly installed, the wires will not work loose from a self-contained device.

Now I expect a slew of comments of "Well, I had a bad experience with a self-contained outlet..." but almost always that was due to a faulty installation. You can mis-install a hospital-grade device as well. The self-contained device itself is usually very reliable and preferred in a vibration environment.