Change 12v switch to illuminated
I have a trailer with a 12v non-illuminated switch to turn on the electric element for the water heater. I want to swap it out to an illuminated switch. The current switch has 2 wires coming to it, bu...
Forum Discussion
OK. Here is my solution.
The wiring all has 3/16" spade connectors on 12g wire.
I took a 1" length of 12g wire, stripped both ends, and put a male connector on one end.
I took a 4" long piece of 18g wire and stripped both ends, then put one end in a female connector with the other end of the 12g wire.
I had a light beside the switch to signal a propane burner failure for the water heater. I turned off the propane, turned on the propane heater, and waited for the light to light up. After it did, I determined the polarity and pulled the ground wire off. I put the female connector on the light, and the wire on the male end of the jumper I made.
Then I turned on the electric element (unplugged from shore power) to determine polarity on the electric heater switch.
I then pulled the hot wire from the old switch and put it on the hot terminal of the lighted switch, moved the load wire from the old switch to the lighted switch, and put a female connector on the other end of the 18g wire and put it on the switch's light terminal.
Works like a champ. Now my electric water heater switch lights up if turned on.
Now, I just need to decide if I want to do the same thing for the switches for the scare light and the awning light.
The wiring all has 3/16" spade connectors on 12g wire.
I took a 1" length of 12g wire, stripped both ends, and put a male connector on one end.
I took a 4" long piece of 18g wire and stripped both ends, then put one end in a female connector with the other end of the 12g wire.
I had a light beside the switch to signal a propane burner failure for the water heater. I turned off the propane, turned on the propane heater, and waited for the light to light up. After it did, I determined the polarity and pulled the ground wire off. I put the female connector on the light, and the wire on the male end of the jumper I made.
Then I turned on the electric element (unplugged from shore power) to determine polarity on the electric heater switch.
I then pulled the hot wire from the old switch and put it on the hot terminal of the lighted switch, moved the load wire from the old switch to the lighted switch, and put a female connector on the other end of the 18g wire and put it on the switch's light terminal.
Works like a champ. Now my electric water heater switch lights up if turned on.
Now, I just need to decide if I want to do the same thing for the switches for the scare light and the awning light.
