Electronic Ignition for Stovetop (w/pics)
I finally got tired enough of the piezoelectric igniter on my Atwood stovetop that I decided to replace it with a battery-powered igniter unit. You know what I’m talking about. You twist the knob; bam...
Forum Discussion
I dont want to detract from original post by OP But I wanted to reply to some comments on the pilot knob position.
Ours in "PILOT ON" literaly is on-gas is flowing thru pilot-period. Thats the way its built. Its not malfunctioning. It is not a universal one size fits all-there are different controls. I can only relate ours and other simular atwoods Ive messed with. If your is different then better design, but if like ours there is potential for issues if you 'think' its different. I believe some of the knobs or panle say 'pilot on /push & hold' if it doesnt and says "PILOT ON" I would recommend verifying how it works. Older ones DO NOT require pushing in the knob to light pilot-gas IS being delivered as soon as its turned to PILOT ON.
Ours you push in the knob to allow turning it to pilot position, once in "PILOT ON" you need to push again to either turn off or set temp. When in a tempature postion, turning down it it snaps into "PILOT ON" position but wont go to off unles pushed in. (So you can turn it all the way down without inadvertently turning pilot off). Once in pilot position you must push in again to turn oven back on.
But to the point-when in "PILOT ON" position (actually more of a pilot only position) whether you let go or are still pushing in, gas is being delivered to pilot. Pushing in is only a mechanical positioning device. To either put in or take out of pilot position you must push in. Unlike say our water heater or newer stove where pilot knob must be continously depressed until thermocouple heats up for pilot to stay on. The thermal couple on ours only controls gas to main burner. Every simular (older) Atwood Ive looked at works this way. My emphasis here is for folks who may think there is no gas and leave in pilot position when in actuality there is. I dont know when they changed-one indicator would be your manual-other knob nomeclature.
Unless you actually have a push & hold - I think it may be due in part the association with other valves that require depressing button- but more in that the idea is verified by the fact when you 1st turn to pilot it doesnt light- so you depress the button and it finally lights. However its due to time air needs to be purged out of line (its open ended so fills back up with air when no gas pressure).
Just FYI.
Whether using a match, a butane lighter or electronic ignitor has no impact on function / safety (or lack thereof of oven). With ignition source ready- Turn to pilot verify its lit..
Ours in "PILOT ON" literaly is on-gas is flowing thru pilot-period. Thats the way its built. Its not malfunctioning. It is not a universal one size fits all-there are different controls. I can only relate ours and other simular atwoods Ive messed with. If your is different then better design, but if like ours there is potential for issues if you 'think' its different. I believe some of the knobs or panle say 'pilot on /push & hold' if it doesnt and says "PILOT ON" I would recommend verifying how it works. Older ones DO NOT require pushing in the knob to light pilot-gas IS being delivered as soon as its turned to PILOT ON.
Ours you push in the knob to allow turning it to pilot position, once in "PILOT ON" you need to push again to either turn off or set temp. When in a tempature postion, turning down it it snaps into "PILOT ON" position but wont go to off unles pushed in. (So you can turn it all the way down without inadvertently turning pilot off). Once in pilot position you must push in again to turn oven back on.
But to the point-when in "PILOT ON" position (actually more of a pilot only position) whether you let go or are still pushing in, gas is being delivered to pilot. Pushing in is only a mechanical positioning device. To either put in or take out of pilot position you must push in. Unlike say our water heater or newer stove where pilot knob must be continously depressed until thermocouple heats up for pilot to stay on. The thermal couple on ours only controls gas to main burner. Every simular (older) Atwood Ive looked at works this way. My emphasis here is for folks who may think there is no gas and leave in pilot position when in actuality there is. I dont know when they changed-one indicator would be your manual-other knob nomeclature.
Unless you actually have a push & hold - I think it may be due in part the association with other valves that require depressing button- but more in that the idea is verified by the fact when you 1st turn to pilot it doesnt light- so you depress the button and it finally lights. However its due to time air needs to be purged out of line (its open ended so fills back up with air when no gas pressure).
Just FYI.
Whether using a match, a butane lighter or electronic ignitor has no impact on function / safety (or lack thereof of oven). With ignition source ready- Turn to pilot verify its lit..
