I am going to do this mod on my ac's and i have read a ton of different forum discussions. but most are from 2-5 years ago and there are still some unanswered questions. hoping someone on here has gone down this path before and can helpmost people say use the spp6E but when i look it up, there are 3 different choices, all with different uf ratings, i bought the 1/2 hp to 3 hp one,,,88uf-106uf,however, why not buy the size up with 130uf-156ufs? is this too much for the unit? i have 2 units, one a 15k and the other a 13,500also, the volt range on the spp6E is from 170 to 277, obviously my ac unit is 120 volts. does this make a difference?they also now offer a spp6TD with a break on delay built into it, which seems nice.the smaller spp6 seems to be rated from 120 to 288 vac. which one is the question?are rv air conditions my ac's draw about 24amps and 21 amps for the start, then drop down to 8-11 amps running in 75 degree weather.what sort of starting amp drop will i see?thanks for looking at my post and for any help, kevin

I am not fully up on this currently. But, I added the spp6 (no "E") to my 13,5 AC. I chose that one after reading the voltage ratings and how it worked about the E on the manufacturers web site. It seemed to me you may never reach the proper voltage to open the capaicitor using the "E".The one I added, made it easier to start with my 2400 genny.Others swear by the "E". Sorry, I don't remember the ampeage readings and I no longer have that trailer. I also added a fan start time delay to shift the fan motor starting load.

Your meter can't read the real startup load, it's not fast enoughIf you look on the compressor, very likely you will see an LRA of about 50 ampsLock Rotor Amps, this is the true high pressure restart valueIt's unlikely you will see much drop off the startup load on your meterWhat you will notice is less lugging of the generator when the compressor starts

Mr Wizard is correct.As for voltage both are in the range.For microfarad (uf), IFRC it should be within 10%.

another odd question, looking at the instructions for the spp6E, it say for CISR motors to hook it straight to the compressor, yet EVERYONE on all these forums say to hook it up to the run capicitor. perhaps i am wrong, i read that almost all rv ac units were NOT the PSC type but were the CISR type, does anyone know for sure?altern, could you be more specific? are you saying that the sp66e will open/work just fine with the 110 vac?

Many opinions... I went the mfg. recommendation. Here's a letter posted on Rv Upgrades:1. Jim Berry (July 13th, 2011 at 7:22 am)If you are adding a hardstart to your RV A/C unit, use the SPP6 (no E). The SPP6E is not designed for 120VAC applications, The “E” series is also an instant restart unit, this does not allow the generator sufficient time to rampup to full power. The SPP6 has the preferred PTC relay and allows a longer ramp up time. The SPP6 is rated for 120VAC usage.Remember for every thousand feet above sea level you generator drops 3% of output. On hotter days the A/C drops in efficiency as well. Check with your A/C manufacturer on the correct generator size for your unit. As far as I know there is not a manufacturer that will reccomend a 2000 watt generator to run a 13,500 BTU A/C unit.If you have any questions about the SPP6 or any other Supco part, please contact us at 1-800-333-9125 ext. 261 our Tech Support will be glad to assist you.Thanks,Jim BerryDirector Product ManagementSealed Unit Parts Co., Inc.

hard start capacitor supco spp6E or spp6 ac unit revisited

Unyalli
Explorer
May 11, 2014
Interesting.

13.500 A/C __________ Cooling amps _ Power
Dometic Brisk II ______ 15.1 _________ 1736 watts @ 115vac
Dometic HP Series ___ 15.4 _________ 1771 watts @ 115vac
Coleman Mach 3 + ___ 15.3 _________ 1759 watts @ 115vac
Coleman Mach 3 PS __ 10.0 _________ 1150 watts @ 115vac
Atwood Air Command _ 12.5 _________ 1437 watts @ 115vac

-Jeff
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
May 11, 2014
Unyalli wrote:
steveh27 wrote:
No need with Dometic's high efficiency AC, which I got when I replaced the original AC. Anyone considering using a genny to run AC should have the High Efficiency model.

Where on Dometics RV A/C page can we see the "high efficiency" models?

-Jeff

They are under Dometic HP (for high performance). Of course, the standard Briskair II draws less current.
Unyalli
Explorer
May 11, 2014
steveh27 wrote:
No need with Dometic's high efficiency AC, which I got when I replaced the original AC. Anyone considering using a genny to run AC should have the High Efficiency model.

Where on Dometics RV A/C page can we see the "high efficiency" models?

-Jeff
steveh27
Explorer
May 11, 2014
No need with Dometic's high efficiency AC, which I got when I replaced the original AC. Anyone considering using a genny to run AC should have the High Efficiency model.
AH64ID
Explorer
May 08, 2014
I am using the SPP6E on my 13.5K BTU A/C and it made a noticeable difference in startup, it's the only model I have used on my last 2 A/C's so I cannot compare it to any others.
TurnThePage
Explorer
May 08, 2014
I don't think the SPP6e has a polarity setting, thus it doesn't matter which way it connected. It's been years since I installed mine and I'm not climbing on the roof to check, but I remember making a bigger deal out of it than necessary too. It's worked perfectly for my setup, on shore power or generator. I never checked amp draw, but I did note that voltage drop was much less and much shorter. The compressor comes on line almost instantly now. Before there was a definite lag, and you could literally hear the strain.

I'm very satisfied with my setup, however I can see why people are so hesitant to go that route in this current landscape.
ksg5000
Explorer
May 08, 2014
When I replaced the capacitors on my 92 13.5 AC I upgraded to Supco 6 (no E) - their tech support was very helpful/prompt and walked me through the installation. I was happy with the upgrade and since the install the compressor starts up every time.
seaeagle2
Explorer
May 06, 2014
We used to use the supco's on residential 240V units, we found that if you pop off the cover, there's a circuit board with a fuse. About 1/3 of the time we inspect them, the fuse is blown.........
rockwind1
Explorer II
May 02, 2014
another issue is that the stock start capacitor has a very clear red and white wire, making it idiot proof, to some degree,,,,,,,yet the spp6e just has to black wires, one with "double" spade connector

my stock capacitor is a RICHEY rated at 250 volts and 43-53 uf's. the uf's on the spp6 is way higher at 130-156uf's while the spp6e i have is only 88-106 uf's, hmmmm, what a mystery.

also, i asked this before, the spp6e instructions clearly show that for a CSIR motor the wires being directly connected to the compressor, vs. bridging them onto the run capacitor, has anyone done this?

my unit is a 13,500 duo therm, apparently 1/5 horsepower, from what i could tell from the label.

does it matter where the wires go as far as (+) and (-_ terminals?
is it the microfarads, uf's, that measure how much boost it provides?
MrWizard
Moderator
May 02, 2014
the cap has too charge, then it supplies boost to the compressor
the real "proof" is how smooth is the startup, when using a generator for power
The start process has slowed down by a few micro seconds, letting your meter get a truer reading

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