Hot water tank drain "valve"

You don't need to power wash the Atwood aluminum tanks that don't need an anode with a wand like you do with a Suburban WH with the anode deposits. So putting a valve in shouldn't be a problem as long as you sanitize when needed and flush with plenty of water. I put a brass ball valve in the Atwood on my first trailer. had to remove the handle on the valve to install it. After installing it I kept the handle in the silverware drawer.

A "T" fitting with a plug on the straight end and a valve on the 90 end should work OK, even with the wand, there are plastic fittings sold at hardware and marine stores if a galvanic reaction is of concern.

navegator

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You hit the nail on the head........

Atwood has a small drain opening to begin with ---1/2"

Add a valve/hose etc and you have made the drain outlet even smaller.
Yes the valve is smaller inside regardless of the large outlet.

Set up makes for quick/easy draining of WH Tank but scale/deposits reman behind.

Don't know why folks think it is so difficult to remove drain plug, power flush WH Tank and then put drain plug back in.

I 'power flush' by turning water supply back on after drain plug is out.....shoots water and debris out.
Don't even mess with one of those wands...they just get in way cause they obstruct drain hole.

The simple solution to that is to use a brass 1/4 turn ball valve instead.

A simple adapter lets you use an adapter to connect a garden hose for either drain or flush or both.

mbopp wrote:
I'd be worried about galvanic welding of the valve and tank.

That can be a concern.....drain bung is aluminum threads.
That is why the nylon drain plug is used.....also if over-tightened plug threads get damaged vs bung threads.

T&P Relief Valve is brass or bronze and although tough to remove they do not damage the aluminum threads...........unless really galled up.

As for installing the nylon drain plug.....I start it with fingers then use a socket to tighten. Threads are tapered (NPT) so they seal when just tight unless aluminum threads are pitted/galled up

I use a brass 1/2" nipple to chase threads when plug leaks. Shouldn't have to tighten very much to seal. Never had to use any sealant/tape on the nylon plug.

The pop off valve is brass. How is that different?

I'd be worried about galvanic welding of the valve and tank.

You're correct, it shouldn't be a problem to put a simple little plastic plug back in, but the last time I drained and flushed the tank, it did give me problems. Tried two different new plugs. Finally got it to stop leaking after using Teflon tape and some sort of plumbing thread sealant. I want to drain & flush in October when we pick up the MH again, so I thought I'd try the valve and maybe it will seal easier than the plastic plugs?

Bill

You hit the nail on the head........

Atwood has a small drain opening to begin with ---1/2"

Add a valve/hose etc and you have made the drain outlet even smaller.
Yes the valve is smaller inside regardless of the large outlet.

Set up makes for quick/easy draining of WH Tank but scale/deposits reman behind.

Don't know why folks think it is so difficult to remove drain plug, power flush WH Tank and then put drain plug back in.

I 'power flush' by turning water supply back on after drain plug is out.....shoots water and debris out.
Don't even mess with one of those wands...they just get in way cause they obstruct drain hole.