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profdant139's avatar
profdant139
Explorer II
Nov 22, 2015

Idea for simplified water tank heating -- need your advice

This stems from a brilliant project posted by SteveAE over on the boondocking forum, to keep the tank from freezing. His project involved a solenoid that controlled the flow of hot water into the outlet pipe of the tank.

My idea is much more crude (and much easier for the non-technical person). Imagine a tee coming off the hot water line that runs to the sink. Imagine a hand-controlled valve at that tee. From the tee, run a line to the cold water intake filler pipe, which is just a gravity feed tube down to the tank.

In the late evening on a cold night, turn on the water heater (if it is not already on). Once the water is hot, open the valve at the tee and run several gallons of hot water into the fresh water tank. (The tank should be insulated -- I have reflectix over it, but I think I will add more insulation.)

This crude solution warms the tank. The downside is that it is a one-shot deal before bedtime -- nobody is going to get up and do this in the middle of the night. Steve's solution is temperature-controlled -- no human needs to lift a finger.

So that is my question -- what do you think of this amateurish work-around? I wanted to get your thoughts, both pro and con, before I cut into my water lines!

Obviously, this is not going to work for sub-zero temps -- the tank will freeze no matter what. But we have discovered that our water lines don't freeze in the 20 degree range, although they will freeze at 11 degrees. Please don't ask how I discovered this threshold.

I look forward to your comments!

(By the way, this is for boondocking -- if we had hookups, I would just install heat tape and be done with it.)
  • That manual valve would be nice when boondocking to preheat the water lines--so there would be less waste water. Go for it!
  • WyoTraveler wrote:
    How about the theory that cooling hot water freezes quicker than cooling cold water?


    that is true for systems where evaporation helps to cool the water faster than just conduction and radiation losses. as hot vapor leaves the surface of the water, it takes heat with it... so hot water in the ice cube tray freezes faster than cold, but only a little.

    rv plumbing system is a closed loop more or less, I guess you would have some evap in the holding tank, but OP states the tank is insulated, so the heat would be retained in the air inside the tank and not lost from the system completely.
  • WyoTraveler wrote:
    How about the theory that cooling hot water freezes quicker than cooling cold water?


    That theory has been proven to be bogus.

    It is true that hot water initially loses heat faster than cold water, because the rate of heat loss depends on the temperature differential between the water and its surroundings. BUT the hot water still has much more total heat to lose before it gets down to the same temp as its surroundings, so it is less likely than the cold water to freeze in the same amount of time.

    I think this is a good simple idea and wouldn't cost much to try out.

    The lines & pump will be full of warm water. Plus the warm water in the tank will radiate some heat into the area of the pump uptake line. If you could wrap Reflectix all around the tank & uptake line, that would be helpful. (I'm assuming you are talking about an exterior tank with an uptake line to the pump inside the trailer.)
  • How about the theory that cooling hot water freezes quicker than cooling cold water?

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