inverter wiring diagram

Test fit of the major components in the dinette seat storage area. I need to add plywood under and hold-down bracing around the batteries, and of course a lot of wiring to do yet.

Gordon,

If your coach is like so many others, you do not want that chassis ground at the battery. At the other side of the shunt it will see even those things that were installed wrong and are grounded to the chassis.

When your Grp 31's start going bad, get ready to replace them with golf cart batteries in series/parallel and with isolator fuses. Lead acid batteries do not play well with others.

Matt

I leave mine plugged in all the time and the monitor says floating charge or complete charge when fully charged. I also have solar but put a disconnect switch on so when plugged into shore power it is off.
PJD

The manual switch between the batteries and inverter is also useful for ensuring ALL phantom loads stop when you flip the switch. My rig still pulls some power even when the main switch is turned off, so I added a 1000W manual switch that will stop it all.

This may be less important if you have an automatic way to maintain your batteries while in storage, like solar.

Which brings me to a question. The Magnums are also 3-stage chargers. Does that mean it's ok to leave the rig plugged in long-term during storage, or is it still better to disconnect the batteries entirely and maintain them manually. (Assuming no solar yet, and AGM batteries so no worry about water.)

GordonThree wrote:

PJDuramax wrote:
I just hooked mine up about one month ago. All circuts are covered works well. I was amased at the 4/0 wire required for the battery. I have pics on my photo bucket I will send you the link when I figure out how to LOL PJD

Very clean looking install. Are you not worried about the unguarded cables getting nicked / damaged under your rig? My problem, I get obsessed worrying about even the smallest detail.

No not at all as there are plastic buckets that hold items. Key here being carefull PJD

Everything looks good to me. As mentioned the line side AC breakers are not needed but won't hurt either.

I'd make a few changes though......

1.) I'd install a battery switch on the incoming 12 VDC hot lead prior to the inverter. I did and REALLY glad I did so now that I been using the system for awhile now. This allows you to easily disconnect the inverter from the batttery bank. Even when the inverter is turned off it still leaks power.

2) I'd isolate the load side neutral. This way you can disconnect the AC load side of the inverter allowing you to back feed the AC from another inverter (smaller more efficient one) without damaging the 2812.

Thank you for the advice on the fuse. It is a class T from bluesea, I will track down a 300 amp and keep the 400 as a spare.

GordonThree wrote:
I went with 400a as recommended by Magnum for the peak surge current of the MS2812, which is documented at 360 amps.

ANL or Class T? ANL is quick so you are fine. Class T is slow so I would go smaller.

Note Class T can pass 200% rating for about 60 seconds. So 225 amp rating will easily pass 450 amps for 20 second surge. For reference my microwave pulls 160 to 175 amps with little to no surge.



ANL is much quicker to open although both will go 300% for 1 second.



http://www.bluesea.com/products/category/Fuses

2oldman wrote:
If it doesn't have breakers, does it at least have surge/sag protection?

It does have line voltage monitoring, and will disconnect itself if the AC input goes beyond set points. I also have a surge protector that connects in-line with the 30A shore power cord.

Thanks everyone for the great questions and feedback!

smkettner wrote:
The auxiliary circuit protection probably should be after the inverter fuse or you are at 500a rating on the battery cable. Might skip the inverter switch, just remove the fuse for long term not in use.

Where is the solar?

I wish I could afford a solar setup at this point ... maybe a year or two down the road :) There is plenty of room on the roof for maybe 3 or 4 panels.

I went with 400a as recommended by Magnum for the peak surge current of the MS2812, which is documented at 360 amps.

I tapped the two aux circuits before the inverter fuse for two reasons. Firstly, if for some reason the inverter blows that big arse fuse, my coach lights, water pump, DSI fridge/hot water will still work until I can get another big fuse bolted in. Secondly, to stay away from any electrical noise that the inverter will dump on the DC bus (not sure it's a valid concern, my experience with switching noise is at the microelectronic level not 100s of amps.)