pianotuna wrote:
Gdetrailer,
I used to believe in stand alone inverters, and stand alone chargers. There is no question that is cheaper. However, I do love having "load support" on my inverter/charger.
When I had limited shore power (10 amps) I would often do "dual conversion" where only the converter was plugged into shore power. I ran the RV from a 2500 watt Cobra inverter, rated to run motors.
If I were in a "do over" situation I would get a Victron inverter/charger, with their version of "load support" (which is NOT voltage support).
The ability to limit shore power demand is important when one does not have access to the shore power breaker box, especially at -25 C (-13 f).
I live in reality, things break, when they break, it is often when you need them the most and when you put all of your "eggs" into one basket you tend to lose all the eggs when the basket handle breaks.. Keeping my separate inverter/converter/ATS was a very cost effective way to build my RV by keeping upfront costs lower, makes servicing and replacing down the road far easier and less expensive by only replacing the bad item. Troubleshooting is very easy since none of the systems are interconnected or controlled by a single common control board.
I can while camping go find any inverter at any local store and limp on, if the converter quits a simple battery charger can be easily fixed in place, and my ATS is a simple $5 DPDT toggle switch for my fridge. Cheap, simple and very effective.
I have no need for "load support", I often am hooked up to a 15A outlet at my Cousins home which what it may be shared with I have no idea.. But, as of yet, I have never tripped their breaker for that circuit.
My 26ft TT, I have TWO, yes TWO A/C units, a 11K BTU for the main part and a 6.5K BTU A/C for our separate bedroom. These are not roof air units, they are higher efficiency window shakers. Combined they can draw 15A at 100F outdoor temps (yes, I have measured the A/C units draw at those temps). If I were limited to 10A, I can limp along on the 11K BTU A/C.. My TT I also have increased the insulation R factor from standard R2-3 to R7 by gutting the trailer and replacing the fiberglass bat insulation with high performance Poly Polyisocyanurate in the walls which makes a difference.
But personally, if shore power limitations like 10A is a constant threat to me. I would be rethinking my camping plans to move on to places that can better serve my needs instead of spending tons of money on batteries and inverters to "support" someone else's weak infrastructure or finding mods which REDUCE my power needs (reducing power usage is always cheaper than more batteries and bigger inverters)..
My goal in life is not to see how much money I can spend on mods and camping, instead, the goal was to spend the least I could on a RV, repairing, replacing, upgrading only what was needed for our needs without taking out loans or spending more on a RV than my sticks and bricks cost (and it was also a cheap fixer upper).. Being cost conscience I was able to retire at age 55 with house paid off, vehicles paid off (last two new vehicles we paid cash, no loan at all), we have no loans at all while currently putting my DD through College and she will have a debt free headstart to life once out of College with a 4yr degree.
I also carry a 4Kw gen with me for those times when I need to overnight while traveling just to cool down the trailer a bit but we rarely need to use it.
I am also a fair weather camper, I have no cares or wants to camp in extreme cold temps as I suspect many folks here are a bit more like this. I would rather be camped in my sticks and bricks tossing another log in the wood burner at -13F than trying to live in what is essentially the same as a cardboard box on the sidewalk in the middle of winter.
I have to give you guys that do that props, but it is not my lifestyle.
