Over the years, I have stayed at many campgrounds. It seems that I have experienced low voltage AC power more times than not. This year we are at a seasonal site and was experiencing low voltage on weekends (107 to 110 volt) without running Air conditioning or electric water heater. The highest voltage I could achieve during the week was 114v. I know that in time this will place a strain on my appliances. I couldn't even make decent toast and the electric griddle would take forever to heat up. decided to research and looked into voltage regulators (aka Autoformers). I decided to give one a try. I bought a 50 amp Hughes Autoformer factory direct on eBay shipped for $489 (no tax). CW wanted around $600.I will say this thing is amazing. It weighs about 48lbs and about the size of 2 bricks. Before plugging it in, I got 114 volts at a wall outlet with nothing running and 110 with AC running. After plugging in the Autoformer, I got 122 with nothing running and 117 with air conditioning running. I realize this thing is pricey but so is a new fridge or AC, TV, etc. I highly recommend this for those who experience low voltage issues. Eventually, I will hard wire the unit inside the rig because I I don't like it at the power pedestal. It is locked up but still, this thing is expensive.

Hi Steve,Does it have any surge protection built in?

Hi, Yes the Hughes Autoformer is the solution for many. I built my own with a 12 volt 500 watt (40 amp) transformer. Just about as expensive once I bought all the wiring and fittings. One time I was at a race track in Bowling Green with about 100' of extension cord, and was getting 108 volts after the 12 volt boost. So you still need to keep checking the voltage just not as often. 105 volts is fine for running the air conditioner, it will still draw a normal amperage, but lower than that, I would shut it off and suffer. CHanging the refrigerator on hot days will help by reducing your amperage into the RV by 3 amps, sometimes increasing the voltage by 2 volts. Also the refrigerator will have about 30% - 40% more cooling capacity on gas than on electric. This is due to a larger capacity burner, than the electric heat element heat output.The gas/electric heating element will actually last longer and put out less wattage on a lower voltage. At 122 volts, then the amperage will increase (compared to 117 volts) and is more likely to be damaged over the long time, due to increased amperage through the heater, making it run hotter. When I was using my voltage booster and ran the refrigerator all summer long in one place, I plugged in the refrigerator via a small 120 volt extension cord under the RV into the outside vent of the refrigerator. This allowed it to run on 108- 118 volts while I ran my A/C at the boosted voltage.Fred.

You need to make sure that campgrounds will allow you to use it. Many will not because it "steals current" from others. Just make sure.

Leeblev wrote:You need to make sure that campgrounds will allow you to use it. Many will not because it "steals current" from others. Just make sure.It doesn't "Steal current". You pedestal will still trip at 30 amps. Only difference, you will have less amperage available to the trailer.There is still the Frank's Autoformer, also.

The campground knows I have it and all I know is that it works and I am now protected. Plus I can make my bacon :)

Low voltage at campgrounds? I found the solution.

ChooChooMan74
Explorer
Jul 20, 2014
Leeblev wrote:
You need to make sure that campgrounds will allow you to use it. Many will not because it "steals current" from others. Just make sure.
It doesn't "Steal current". You pedestal will still trip at 30 amps. Only difference, you will have less amperage available to the trailer.

There is still the Frank's Autoformer, also.
Leeblev
Explorer
Jul 20, 2014
You need to make sure that campgrounds will allow you to use it. Many will not because it "steals current" from others. Just make sure.
Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Jul 20, 2014
Hi,

Yes the Hughes Autoformer is the solution for many. I built my own with a 12 volt 500 watt (40 amp) transformer. Just about as expensive once I bought all the wiring and fittings.

One time I was at a race track in Bowling Green with about 100' of extension cord, and was getting 108 volts after the 12 volt boost. So you still need to keep checking the voltage just not as often.

105 volts is fine for running the air conditioner, it will still draw a normal amperage, but lower than that, I would shut it off and suffer.

CHanging the refrigerator on hot days will help by reducing your amperage into the RV by 3 amps, sometimes increasing the voltage by 2 volts. Also the refrigerator will have about 30% - 40% more cooling capacity on gas than on electric. This is due to a larger capacity burner, than the electric heat element heat output.

The gas/electric heating element will actually last longer and put out less wattage on a lower voltage. At 122 volts, then the amperage will increase (compared to 117 volts) and is more likely to be damaged over the long time, due to increased amperage through the heater, making it run hotter.

When I was using my voltage booster and ran the refrigerator all summer long in one place, I plugged in the refrigerator via a small 120 volt extension cord under the RV into the outside vent of the refrigerator. This allowed it to run on 108- 118 volts while I ran my A/C at the boosted voltage.

Fred.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jul 20, 2014
Hi Steve,

Does it have any surge protection built in?

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Low voltage at campgrounds? I found the solution.

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