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ahamade's avatar
ahamade
Explorer
Mar 11, 2014

Magnum MSH3012M Inverter Install

Hi guys, I am working on installing an inverter into my RV and was wondering what the proper way to hook up the AC power.

My RV has 30 Amp service. It currently has a WFCO WF-8955PEC Power Center. This contains both my AC & DC circuits. My new inverter supports up to 3000 Watts & can draw from shore power & my batteries at the same time.

I have the DC side figured out as thats pretty simple. The AC side has me totally stumped. The documentation states I should install a 60 Amp single pole breaker for the AC Input to the inverter & a 60 Amp breaker for the AC Output from the inverter. My WFCO Power center can not support a breaker that large so I can't use that as the input breaker panel.

Does anyone know of a solution for my AC input to the inverter? I want my converter to work when plugged into shore power or when on generator, so should I split the input power cables that are going to my WFCO Power center to also go to the input of my inverter? This way when I am on shore/gen power both the converter and the inverter get power? This would allow me to keep my AC, Water Heater, & Fridge on the AC switch panel built into the WFCO Power center.

As for AC Output from the inverter, I would install a sub panel that has a 60 Amp Breaker for the inverter then 3 20amp breakers for Microwave, GFCI, & Receptacles. Does anyone know of a sub panel that is made for RV's that would support what I am trying to do?

Any help on this would be appreciated as the entire design is a work in progress.
  • ahamade wrote:
    Ahh ok got ya, so I would take the output from my auto switch box and put that as the 120V into my inverter then the output from my inverter would go into my current WFCO AC/DC panel. I would then disconnect the DC portion of my WFCO panel by say leaving the Converter breaker in the off position. That sound about right?


    the breaker controls the AC portion. that's probably good enough, but you will have some parasitic load from the DC portion, which connects to the FUSE panel, not the circuit breaker panel.

    It is an optional procedure, I do not think the fan draws much current... if you're not comfortable, I'd recommend leaving it closed up. Otherwise, you open the panel to where you can get at the converter circuit board, and you unplug (and tape up) the DC charge wire, as if you were removing the converter to replace it. It will be the wire going from the circuit board to the fuse block.
  • Hi Gordon,

    He could just remove the reverse polarity fuses on the wfco and store them.
  • Thanks guys for the info... if I pull the reverse polarity fuses then I dont think my DC will work at all. These fuses blew once and I had no DC power (lights would not turn on) until I replaced those 2 fuses.

    I really appreciate everyone's help!
  • I had tried the same, the reverse polarity fuse was wired in series with the DC lead coming in from the battery to the rest of the fuse block... no fuse, no power.

    I had my panel open for wiring work, so it took no extra time to just disconnect the converter. your mileage may vary and wiring surely varies from one trailer to another.

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