My experience with LEDs (warning: long, but lots of info)
I dry camp alot, so the LED threads have kept my interest for some time. My Class C has a very open layout, which means lots of space to illuminate, and unfortunately that means lots of lights/fixtures. My interior lighting consisted of 7 double bulb fixtures and 4 single bulb fixtures, all using #1141 BA15s bulbs (measured current: 1.41A @ 12.6VDC) and having opaque lenses. Of course there are also a few additional bulbs; porch light & step light, stove hood light, wall sconce, etc. With that much space and that many bulbs, it’s easy to get the imaginary meter spinning, yet I was never really happy with the illumination provided. So my goal was not just LESS current, but MORE light as well. That seemed to be a tall order. But with the prices on LEDs decreasing and the variety and styles increasing, now was the time to try.
Now, personally, I dislike the yellowish “warm white” that many seem to prefer (both in LEDs and incandescents). Especially with an older MH like mine, they just seem dim and dingy to me. But I similarly dislike the cold bluish tint of the “cool white” LEDs. What I was looking for was something in the middle, something that mimics the daylight sun, with true color rendering, and lots of it. I learned that what I was looking for is about the 5000K–6000K temperature range; any higher starts to look blue, lower starts looking yellow. This “middle of the road” color is sometimes referred to as “pure white” or “bright white”, and as a plus it puts out more lumens and actually “looks” brighter than either the warm or cool colors. But you have to be careful; unless the actual color temp (in Kelvin (K)) is listed by the distributor, you can’t be sure what actual color you’re getting.
I started with outdoor lighting. I was using a 120VAC rope light hanging from hooks on the awning roller, but it was really more of yellowish “accent” lighting than anything else, and of course could only be used with the genset or hookups. There was also the hassle of putting it up and taking it down every trip, or if the wind came up. Surely today’s LED technology would allow me to do better. So I purchased a 5 meter (16.4’) LED strip light, containing 300 LEDs. These strips are 12VDC, thin, flexible, waterproof (the one I bought is inside a robust silicone rectangular tube), and can be cut to length (more on that later). The 5 meter length was perfect for my application; it is glued (silicone) to the awning roller and rolls up inside. No hanging or installation/removal necessary; once the awning is unrolled, I simply plug it in, and my entire campsite area under the awning is brightly illuminated. Measured current: just 0.91A @ 12.6VDC. It was such an unqualified success, that I decided to jump in with both feet. I read everything I could on these and other forums and websites, and then I bought a few of these, a few of those, tried them here, tried them there...and here’s what I ended up with (and why):
-All ceiling fixtures in the main living area as well as the bathroom, entry, and closet got the(flat) panel style LEDs in the 48-5050 configuration (I first tried the 48-3528 panels, but wasn’t satisfied with the light output). The 48-5050s put out a similar amount of light to the 1141 bulbs they replaced, at only 1/4 the current. Measured current:0.37A @ 12.6VDC (74% less than the 1141 incandescent).
-In the overhead bunk, I used the 48-3528 panels (first ones purchased, originally intended for the living area. While they were deemed insufficient (IMO) for that larger area, they work fine for the smaller bunk area). Measured current: 0.21A (86% savings).
-For the 4 under cabinet 2-bulb fixtures (couch, chairs, dinette, kitchen), I chose a different route entirely. Here, I purchased another (5 meter) LED strip light, this one with 600 high output LEDs. I cut it into 4 sections of just over 4’ each, and attached them under the front edge of the cabinets with silicone, installing a rocker switch for each and removing the 2- bulb fixtures in those locations entirely. IMO, this is what makes the whole setup work so well. The light output is nothing short of amazing, yet the measured current of each 4’ section is just 0.78A (72% savings over the 2-bulb fixture each replaces).
-Porch light: First I tried a 36-5050 panel in the porch light, but it’s “eye-level” location (porch light/grab handle combo) blinded you as you approached the door! So instead I went with a 13-5050 “bulb style” replacement. It’s still quite bright when approaching, but bearable, and still produces a usable amount of light. I may still change this out to a yellow/amber one later as a “bug” light. Measured current: 0.28A (45% savings over the #89 bulb it replaced).
-The interior step light (tied into the porch light circuit) got a small green 5-5050 bulb style. Measured current: 0.05A (55% savings over the small #53 incandescent it replaced).
-I used the 36-5050 panel (remember the porch light?) to replace the 2 wedge type bulbs (0.91A ea.) in the stove hood. Not quite as much light through the thick opaque lens, but still sufficient. I may swap this out for a brighter 48-5050 in the future. Measured current: 0.2A (89% savings).
-Finally, although it doesn't run off the house batteries, I replaced my #57 incandescent dome light in the cab with a white 5-5050 bulb style. Measured current: 0.05A (79% savings).
Overall current savings? IF EVERY LIGHT in my RV were now used all at once; the ceiling, under cabinets, o/h bunk, bathroom, entry, closet, stove hood, porch/step lights (25 lights!)… the current is equivalent to just 5 of the original 1141 bulbs (2 ½ fixtures)! And the illumination would literally drive you from the RV and/or blind you! More light AND less current? Mission accomplished on both counts.
A more typical evening use, inside & out, would look something like this:
Old incandescents: Couch fixture, dinette fixture, 1 ceiling fixture, porchlight = 9A
New LEDs: Couch strip, dinette strip, 1 ceiling fixture, awning strip =3A (with significantly more illumination, especially outside).
And what did I spend? Using Amazon and eBay, the 300 LED strip for the awning was $22, the panels (48-3528, 48-5050, 36-5050) were all about $4 - $5 each, the 13-5050 and green 5-5050 bulb styles were about $2 each, and the 600 LED strip was $33 (all prices include shipping). Add in 4 small rocker switches @ $2.50 each for the under cabinet strips, and the grand total was less than $125.
Now, personally, I dislike the yellowish “warm white” that many seem to prefer (both in LEDs and incandescents). Especially with an older MH like mine, they just seem dim and dingy to me. But I similarly dislike the cold bluish tint of the “cool white” LEDs. What I was looking for was something in the middle, something that mimics the daylight sun, with true color rendering, and lots of it. I learned that what I was looking for is about the 5000K–6000K temperature range; any higher starts to look blue, lower starts looking yellow. This “middle of the road” color is sometimes referred to as “pure white” or “bright white”, and as a plus it puts out more lumens and actually “looks” brighter than either the warm or cool colors. But you have to be careful; unless the actual color temp (in Kelvin (K)) is listed by the distributor, you can’t be sure what actual color you’re getting.
I started with outdoor lighting. I was using a 120VAC rope light hanging from hooks on the awning roller, but it was really more of yellowish “accent” lighting than anything else, and of course could only be used with the genset or hookups. There was also the hassle of putting it up and taking it down every trip, or if the wind came up. Surely today’s LED technology would allow me to do better. So I purchased a 5 meter (16.4’) LED strip light, containing 300 LEDs. These strips are 12VDC, thin, flexible, waterproof (the one I bought is inside a robust silicone rectangular tube), and can be cut to length (more on that later). The 5 meter length was perfect for my application; it is glued (silicone) to the awning roller and rolls up inside. No hanging or installation/removal necessary; once the awning is unrolled, I simply plug it in, and my entire campsite area under the awning is brightly illuminated. Measured current: just 0.91A @ 12.6VDC. It was such an unqualified success, that I decided to jump in with both feet. I read everything I could on these and other forums and websites, and then I bought a few of these, a few of those, tried them here, tried them there...and here’s what I ended up with (and why):
-All ceiling fixtures in the main living area as well as the bathroom, entry, and closet got the(flat) panel style LEDs in the 48-5050 configuration (I first tried the 48-3528 panels, but wasn’t satisfied with the light output). The 48-5050s put out a similar amount of light to the 1141 bulbs they replaced, at only 1/4 the current. Measured current:0.37A @ 12.6VDC (74% less than the 1141 incandescent).
-In the overhead bunk, I used the 48-3528 panels (first ones purchased, originally intended for the living area. While they were deemed insufficient (IMO) for that larger area, they work fine for the smaller bunk area). Measured current: 0.21A (86% savings).
-For the 4 under cabinet 2-bulb fixtures (couch, chairs, dinette, kitchen), I chose a different route entirely. Here, I purchased another (5 meter) LED strip light, this one with 600 high output LEDs. I cut it into 4 sections of just over 4’ each, and attached them under the front edge of the cabinets with silicone, installing a rocker switch for each and removing the 2- bulb fixtures in those locations entirely. IMO, this is what makes the whole setup work so well. The light output is nothing short of amazing, yet the measured current of each 4’ section is just 0.78A (72% savings over the 2-bulb fixture each replaces).
-Porch light: First I tried a 36-5050 panel in the porch light, but it’s “eye-level” location (porch light/grab handle combo) blinded you as you approached the door! So instead I went with a 13-5050 “bulb style” replacement. It’s still quite bright when approaching, but bearable, and still produces a usable amount of light. I may still change this out to a yellow/amber one later as a “bug” light. Measured current: 0.28A (45% savings over the #89 bulb it replaced).
-The interior step light (tied into the porch light circuit) got a small green 5-5050 bulb style. Measured current: 0.05A (55% savings over the small #53 incandescent it replaced).
-I used the 36-5050 panel (remember the porch light?) to replace the 2 wedge type bulbs (0.91A ea.) in the stove hood. Not quite as much light through the thick opaque lens, but still sufficient. I may swap this out for a brighter 48-5050 in the future. Measured current: 0.2A (89% savings).
-Finally, although it doesn't run off the house batteries, I replaced my #57 incandescent dome light in the cab with a white 5-5050 bulb style. Measured current: 0.05A (79% savings).
Overall current savings? IF EVERY LIGHT in my RV were now used all at once; the ceiling, under cabinets, o/h bunk, bathroom, entry, closet, stove hood, porch/step lights (25 lights!)… the current is equivalent to just 5 of the original 1141 bulbs (2 ½ fixtures)! And the illumination would literally drive you from the RV and/or blind you! More light AND less current? Mission accomplished on both counts.
A more typical evening use, inside & out, would look something like this:
Old incandescents: Couch fixture, dinette fixture, 1 ceiling fixture, porchlight = 9A
New LEDs: Couch strip, dinette strip, 1 ceiling fixture, awning strip =3A (with significantly more illumination, especially outside).
And what did I spend? Using Amazon and eBay, the 300 LED strip for the awning was $22, the panels (48-3528, 48-5050, 36-5050) were all about $4 - $5 each, the 13-5050 and green 5-5050 bulb styles were about $2 each, and the 600 LED strip was $33 (all prices include shipping). Add in 4 small rocker switches @ $2.50 each for the under cabinet strips, and the grand total was less than $125.
