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Dutch_12078's avatar
Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Dec 04, 2015

Residential refrigerator travel lock

Over the Thanksgiving weekend, I pulled out the 14 year old 7.5 cu ft fridge in our coach that was becoming less than reliable. I replaced it with a 10 cu ft residential fridge that was a near perfect fit in the space. Once it was in, anchored, and trimmed out, I began researching ways of securing the fridge and freezer doors for travel since I really hate it when the leftover meatloaf goes flying across the coach in a tight turn.

After perusing a variety of options that other folks have used, I ruled out bungee cords and baby latches as too ugly and/or awkward to use. We wanted a latch system that could allow normal door use when parked on a site, and eventually I turned to window sash latches to see if I could find a solution. The latches I finally chose were a whopping $3.28 each at Home Depot, and only needed a minor modification to fit my purpose.

The latch assembly as show on the Home Depot site:


For my intended use, the little tab seen in the center of the keeper needed to be ground off as the keeper would be installed reversed from its normal position. A few minutes with a Dremel tool took care of that.

One latch installed on the trim:


The keeper installed on the freezer door:


The latches in travel position:


The latches in normal use position:


For those that store their RV, putting the latches in the travel position with the doors open creates a spacer for keeping them open a bit to prevent odor buildup.
  • I would advise that no one put a screw in any part of the frame a Hot gas bypass is routed around the frame. Hit that and you just ruined your refer. I would not do it even if you have a plumbing dia. This tubing can shift a little during the foaming in process.
  • Ivylog wrote:
    Child lock... $2

    I saw that style at Walmart I think, but they wouldn't work for my installation since there's no sidewall exposed to attach them to.
  • Golden_HVAC wrote:
    It is a good thing that you did not drill into the refrigerator framework. There can be freon lines right next to the door, to prevent condensation on the door and freezer gaskets, and prevent them from freezing shut.

    In the past, designers would install electric heaters near the freezer door, and they would run all the time, keeping the door gasket warm, but using a small amount of power 24/7. Even 10 watts adds up to 87 KW a year, adding significantly to the cost of running a refrigerator each year. Now they use hot freon gas from the compressor, and it is easy to drill into the freon tubing while installing a door lock.

    Great job on your installation!

    Fred.

    That's good advice, Fred, and something I was aware of in figuring out a latch setup that only attached anything directly to the fridge at the edge of doors. Thanks!
  • It is a good thing that you did not drill into the refrigerator framework. There can be freon lines right next to the door, to prevent condensation on the door and freezer gaskets, and prevent them from freezing shut.

    In the past, designers would install electric heaters near the freezer door, and they would run all the time, keeping the door gasket warm, but using a small amount of power 24/7. Even 10 watts adds up to 87 KW a year, adding significantly to the cost of running a refrigerator each year. Now they use hot freon gas from the compressor, and it is easy to drill into the freon tubing while installing a door lock.

    Great job on your installation!

    Fred.
  • I like it too....I'll have to see if I can do the same. Tired of the straps I use to keep it closed!