Shower Drain Fix (5er Storage issue)

gregirish1954 wrote:
Nice fix! It's annoying that the manufacture's consistently opt for quick and cheap rather than well-thought-out and only slightly more expensive.

I've always been puzzled as to why waterless traps, which are pretty common in Europe, have not caught on here in the states and Canada. Seems like they would be a no-brainer for RV's, don't require much vertical space and are already winterized.

waterless trap

Several RV manufacturers use the waterless traps...

Nice work, Russ. I’m fortunate on ours that the P Trap is off to one side but do have plum I gotta vent lines and the 3” pipe from the toilet to the take taking up space in an area that was blocked off. When I expanded the battery back to 4 AGMS for the solar I worked them around the vent lines in this area.

I will say the biggest plus to this is the shower drains way better! Before the fix with a shorter drain run, nearly flat, the shower pan would start to fill with water and you would need to tap the drain with a foot to get the flow started.
Now the water drains easily on its own, even though the drain line is longer, but no longer flat, nicely sloped.

ROBERTSUNRUS wrote:
:) Hi, great job; Makes you wonder what the heck they were thinking, or not thinking, when they built this.

What they were thinking? Saving a buck like all the manufactures, it's not about customer needs.

mobeewan wrote:
I did something similar under my kitchen sink in the TT. My sink has a large bowl on the left side and a smaller Bowl on the right side that was about half the size of the left. The P-trap was on the left side of the cabinet. The drain line then ran straight to the left to a T with the air admittance valve on top of the T. The line then ran down and turned under the stove to run to the tank. This created a loss of about 30% of the storage capacity under the sink.

I completely removed the short radius elbow where the pipe turned under the stove and cut the pipe between the P-trap and the T. I then moved the portion of pipe with the T and air admittance valve to the left rear corner under the cabinet at the same height with the horizontal portion of pipe running against the wall. I disconnected the piping from the drains under the sink and flipped it 180 degrees with the P-trap on the right side under the small sink bowl. I then turned the P-trap so it went towards the wall and ran along the side of the cabinet drawers. I then installed two pieces of pipe, a long radius elbow and two couplings to reconnect the P-trap to the T and air admittance valve horizontal pipe. I then reconnected the vertical pipe below the T and air admittance valve to the pipe under the stove with a necessary pipe and elbows.

Had to plant a seed in my mind didn't you! :B :S

I need to replace counter top and back panel of our sink peninsula due to our episode of MerMutts! I was looking at space under the corner of the counter, that opens up more possibility's

gregirish1954 wrote:
Nice fix! It's annoying that the manufacture's consistently opt for quick and cheap rather than well-thought-out and only slightly more expensive.

I've always been puzzled as to why waterless traps, which are pretty common in Europe, have not caught on here in the states and Canada. Seems like they would be a no-brainer for RV's, don't require much vertical space and are already winterized.

waterless trap

I see two reasons, one is cost $30 compared to about $7 for a standard trap. The other would be if anything get stuck in the lips of the trap order can get through.

Nice fix! It's annoying that the manufacture's consistently opt for quick and cheap rather than well-thought-out and only slightly more expensive.

I've always been puzzled as to why waterless traps, which are pretty common in Europe, have not caught on here in the states and Canada. Seems like they would be a no-brainer for RV's, don't require much vertical space and are already winterized.

waterless trap

I did something similar under my kitchen sink in the TT. My sink has a large bowl on the left side and a smaller Bowl on the right side that was about half the size of the left. The P-trap was on the left side of the cabinet. The drain line then ran straight to the left to a T with the air admittance valve on top of the T. The line then ran down and turned under the stove to run to the tank. This created a loss of about 30% of the storage capacity under the sink.

I completely removed the short radius elbow where the pipe turned under the stove and cut the pipe between the P-trap and the T. I then moved the portion of pipe with the T and air admittance valve to the left rear corner under the cabinet at the same height with the horizontal portion of pipe running against the wall. I disconnected the piping from the drains under the sink and flipped it 180 degrees with the P-trap on the right side under the small sink bowl. I then turned the P-trap so it went towards the wall and ran along the side of the cabinet drawers. I then installed two pieces of pipe, a long radius elbow and two couplings to reconnect the P-trap to the T and air admittance valve horizontal pipe. I then reconnected the vertical pipe below the T and air admittance valve to the pipe under the stove with a necessary pipe and elbows.

:) Hi, great job; Makes you wonder what the heck they were thinking, or not thinking, when they built this.

Great job...much smarter.
Just make sure it doesn't leak onto that electrical box that is right beneath it.