Sitting for almost 20 years...
So, I got a 1975 Terry 18' trailer for free. It needs work, and I am pretty handy. I plan to use it in the middle of nowhere, not at those pretty parks with hookups. I was surprised to pop the g...
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swimmer_spe wrote:
edit: not a PUP
PUP?
Haha. I posted something about checking the roof lifting mechanism, then realized you weren't talking about a Pop UP.
Only rubber is at the bottles. Everything else is either copper or cast.
That's usually the case, but being that old, I didn't know if they had anywhere else. Be sure to replace those rubber lines. I used 2 of these from Mr. Heater to attach an auto-switchover regulator for new dual tank setup.
Yup. This though, is not a concern of mine. Am I right this has nothing to do with safety? It is just for lighting when I am not on the grid?
Your onboard converter produces 12v and all your lighting and such should be 12v. Fridge needs 12v for controls, as does the furnace, etc. Any shorts or weak connections can build up heat, either directly or by making other components work harder.
Most importantly for the wiring part is to get an idea of how good or bad your wiring is using the voltage drop as a makeshift gauge. If it is little, probably not too much trouble. If it is a lot, best to check it out before any extensive use. Even if not a big safety issue, bad connections are hard on your (usually expensive) 12v appliances.
You also don't want bad connections to drain your (also expensive) deep cycle battery. Not only is it part of your overall electrical health, it is likely used to power your breakaway switch for your electric trailer brakes. That is a direct safety issue.
But again, it's up to you to select the things that concern you. I am simply pointing out what I would consider the priorities if in the same situation, in an effort to help out a bit.
BTW, we like pictures! ;)
