I see where people here have problems with their plastic hot water plug. Here is how I fixed mine. I used this for 9 years on my TT and now for 4 years on my MH so it has been well tested, never had a problem.Went to Lowe's and bought a brass coupler, pipe threads on one end and male water hose on the other. Also bought a metal cap for a water hose. Use a little teflon tape and put the fitting in the HW heater (not too tight) then use the cap as needed. I only hand tighten the cap. Never had a leak and never have a problem getting the cap off, just change the washer every couple of years.Added benefit is you can put a hose on it so the water does not run down the side of you camper or you can catch it in a bucket and use the hot water if needed.There is a drop of water on the cap in the picture but I had just replaced the cap and did not wipe it off before I took the picture.

Good idea! Over the years I've replaced several plastic fittings with brass ones in various RVs but hadn't really thought of that.

:h Why haven't I thought of that. I have been using a brass plug for about 8 years. I like your idea better. Thanks

Going to pick one up now! On another twist I use the same on with a bushing reducer and a 1/4" air chuck and use it to blow out my camper water lines so pick up a couple!

What a great idea, those plastic plugs/caps are miserable! Looks like a spring project for me.

The dreaded plastic hot water plug/my fix | Good Sam Community

20 Replies

calamus
Explorer
Dec 05, 2013
They make a anode rod with a drain in it. A quick search and I found it. The relief valves are all brass. So any brass will be fine and most of us remove the plug yearly any way.
JnJnKatiebug
Explorer
Dec 03, 2013
beemerphile1 wrote:
JnJnKatiebug wrote:
...you can put a hose on it so the water does not run down the side of you camper or you can catch it in a bucket and use the hot water if needed....

I'm curious how you remove the cap and attach a hose with water in the tank without a shut off valve? Seems like you would get your shoes mighty wet before the hose was on.

I also carry and use one of these. If I think I will be needing hot water or going to drain the tank when hot I put it on beforehand. The cap or the valve can be used without tools. These valves have more volume than a gas valve. I just threw this out in case anyone wanted to use it. If you have something that works then by all means stick with it. I'm not saying my way is the best.
BillB800si
Explorer
Dec 03, 2013
quote=beemerphile1 quote=JnJnKatiebug...
I'm curious how you remove the cap and attach a hose with water in the tank without a shut off valve? Seems like you would get your shoes mighty wet before the hose was on./quote
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Not to mention that is scalding hot water in the tank.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Dec 03, 2013
JnJnKatiebug wrote:
...you can put a hose on it so the water does not run down the side of you camper or you can catch it in a bucket and use the hot water if needed....

I'm curious how you remove the cap and attach a hose with water in the tank without a shut off valve? Seems like you would get your shoes mighty wet before the hose was on.
LarryJM
Explorer II
Dec 03, 2013
rv2go wrote:
downtheroad wrote:
Good idea...and it sounds like you have tested it over time.

Somehow, somewhere I thought I read that a metal plug would cause electrolysis/rust issues with the tank...(maybe not???)

Have you ever replace your pop off valve? I bet it's brass.

Even if the relief valve is brass and not bronze the actual threads in the water heater might be manufactured to be compatible and the OEM valves from ATWOOD have thread protectors on the valves so Atwood must think there are potential issues in using even brass. Atwood uses NYLON for the drain plug for a reason and the dissimilar metal issue is definitely there when using things like brass or other metals for the drain plug. Will the plug seize or cause you issues if you use something not compatible ... WHO KNOWS so one must ask themselves "DO YOU FEEL LUCKY?".

I have also modded my drain, but went a different route than the OP and made sure I used what I considered proper and compatible materials. Below is my system and gives more details HERE with the specific parts I used in the picture captions if anyone is interested.

This mod gives what I consider a much better drain system and even allows for getting hotwater on the utility side of my trailer when camped.

Larry
pkunk
Explorer
Dec 03, 2013
glorio wrote:
Look at the plastic plug carefully and you will notice
that the wall of the plug not the threaded part is very
thin. This may be some kind of pressure release should the
pressure relief valve fail. Maybe we should check with the
OEM before we bypass this. Just my thoughts.
Thin because they're cheap :R
I use a brass bushing down to 1/4" and a brass 1/4" ball valve.
glorio
Explorer
Dec 03, 2013
Look at the plastic plug carefully and you will notice
that the wall of the plug not the threaded part is very
thin. This may be some kind of pressure release should the
pressure relief valve fail. Maybe we should check with the
OEM before we bypass this. Just my thoughts.
roy67ss
Explorer
Dec 03, 2013
My solution is a valve and a short hose.
Bandaid
Explorer
Dec 02, 2013
Same as the above post, I bought a gas line shut off valve. Used a double male pipe thread fitting to install it to the drain of the water heater. To keep the water from running down the side of the trailer, or pooling in the panel box, I carry a six inch length of brass pipe and just finger tight thread it into the shut off valve.
I've used this method on five trailers so far and never had a problem.

Bandaid
rbtglove
Explorer
Dec 02, 2013
On our 5th RV and since I like to drain the hot water tank after each use I have installed valves on all of them. Sometimes it took some looking to find one that would fit but there are manay styles available.