Forum Discussion

profdant139's avatar
profdant139
Explorer II
Apr 26, 2018

Underbelly project: tanks hang below frame members . . .

Other folks must have encountered this problem, but I have not found any discussions of it. My tanks (fresh/black/gray) all hang down about six inches below the bottom of the steel beams that make up the frame of my trailer's chassis.

I had intended to use coroplast to enclose the underbelly and the insulation that I will be adding. But although coroplast is semi-flexible, it is not infinitely flexible -- I doubt it would clamp to the exterior beam flanges and still bend down around the tanks without breaking.

I see two possibilities: use a heavy plastic fabric instead of coroplast. That would be pretty simple -- it would just bend around the bottoms of the tanks. But I would not be able to glue the insulating foam panels to the top side of the fabric because the fabric would not be flat.

Or a more expensive and tricky solution: bolt some sort of downward extension to the beams -- maybe aluminum I beams -- so that the bottom of the "add-on" beams would be below the level of the tanks, so that the coroplast would not have to bend. I would also add thin aluminum cross-bars under the coroplast to support it. (And I would probably glue the waterproof styrofoam insulating panels to the top side of the coroplast.)

Fortunately, I have a lot of extra ground clearance, so I have plenty of room to add additional "sidewalls" underneath the trailer.

Your thoughts and advice, as always, will be greatly appreciated!
  • Beam clamps are available at Lowe’s or Home Depot along with uninstrut channel. I would sandwich a section of coroplast between the sagging tank and at least 2 equally spaced pieces of unistrut between the frame rails. You could fasten the unistrut to the frame rails with unistrut beam clamps( may vibrate loose on a trailer) , or drill and bolt the unistrut to the I beam flange. The coroplast between the tank and unistrut would insulate the tank from chafing on the unistrut (unlikely because unistrut is smooth with radius corners), and if you cut and install the coroplast it as a separate section (overlap the edges) it will be easier to service the tank later if needed. It should install relatively easy with empty tanks.
    After posting, I re-read your first post to make sure that I understood. If insulating the tanks is the objective you could still use the unistrut to support the sagging tank, and sandwich closed cell foam board between the tank and the coroplast. You would just need longer bolts to fasten the unistrut to the i beam flanges (beam clamps would not work in this case). Also, this would be a good opportunity to install an electric tank heater pad.
  • You need some Beam clamps and a material to make up the drop of the tanks relating to the frame. Your description as to what you would do with the area beneath the tanks is exactly how I'd handle it. I'd use aluminum too. I'd also attach a piece of flat rubber as a gasket between steel and aluminum mating surfaces.

    Most larger cities have a steel and metals distributor. I use Discount Steel , as an example. DS will cut and ship if that's a necessity.
  • As kt said, cut the coroplast around the tanks and insulate above it, and then you could either insulate the tanks with something like a spray on foam insulation or glue on panels and then use some sort of fabric to close them in for waterproofing and road hazard protection. Rubber roof membrane comes to mind as a possibility.
  • Unless you really want the tanks insulated, why not just cut the coreplast to have an opening for the tanks, and insulate in the empty spaces?

About DIY Maintenance

RV projects you can tackle on your own with a few friendly pointers.4,352 PostsLatest Activity: Jan 20, 2025