30 amp for duel AC

Device looks very similar to Progressive Dynamics cheater box. It specifically says no GFCI and receptacles must be on separate circuits.
Cheater box

avvidclif1 wrote:
I see nothing there that states it will work with GFCI and the layout doesn't either. Besides it's just a switch to select using an extension cord to run the second AC or to use the 50a service. Those are available for less than $30 rated to carry 20a.

It is a manual transfer switch but it is more than that.
There are circuits in the box that allow the unit to work with GFI circuits. I have used the unit on GFI outlets and nothing tripped.
If you click the link I posted prior the diagram specifically show the switch being used with GFI outlets. The unit is UL listed which means there are lots of standard that had to be met working on GFI outlets is one of them. Trust me it works.
The developer of the box is a member of the Open Range forum.
He introduced me to his contraption. I am here to say it works well especially on GFI outlets. It is a real game changer.
The avg.RV can pull into 95 per cent of 30 amp sites (those with an additional 20 amp outlet) and run both ACs without issue.
Anyone truly interested can PM me and I will put you in touch with the developer who can confirm how and why the device works on GFI circuits.

I see nothing there that states it will work with GFCI and the layout doesn't either. Besides it's just a switch to select using an extension cord to run the second AC or to use the 50a service. Those are available for less than $30 rated to carry 20a.

The neutrals fed by the 30 amp and 15/20 amp will be tied together or should be in the box. The GFCI will see this and trip.

Coach-man wrote:

Lantley wrote:

Grady23 wrote:
Anyone ever install a separate circuit on a remote breaker box for a 110 service? This was a recommendation from a mechanic working at a well known camping center. Then the bedroom A/C would be on its own 110 circuit and plugged in to the 30 Amp for the main 5th and a sep heavy duty extention on the post

This ^^^^ is a very viable idea.
THe gadget below is designed to do just that it will allow you to run both AC's on a 30 amp site


Check it out

I have an RV SafePower Switch. It allows me to run both AC's on a 30 amp site. Work like a champ

The problem with that, is most 20 amp outlets are GFCI, which will immediately blow if you try and connect that box!

Not true the box is specifically designed to work on GFCI outlets

See Here

westernrvparkowner wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

Mandalay Parr wrote:
I can run both of mine on 30. They draw about 27-28 total. One is a 15 and the other 13.5.

Keep in mind a 30amp is really only rated for 25amps continuous. Drawing continuous 27-28 amps is a good way to burn out equipment. If you are lucky it just trips the circuit breaker.

You may or may not be able to get both units going but it's really a not a good idea.

Huh? What gets damaged drawing 27 amps? A breaker only has two positions, on or off. If it is on, the power being delivered will be 120 volts +/- 5 percent per NEC. If it is tripped to off, the power being delivered will be zero volts +/- an infinite percent (zero times anything is still zero). Where things get damaged is when voltage fluctuates high or low. The only possible damage would be if something gets harmed by the power suddenly cutting out due to a breaker tripping. Almost all appliances are built with that potential in mind so they aren't going to be damaged. The biggest threat would be if something got harmed because the appliance stopped working. Pets might overheat if the AC quits and the Chicken Fried Steak is going to be mighty greasy should the electric frying pan cut out in mid fry, but the skillet and the AC unit will almost assuredly continue to work once power is restored.

I agree.. Only thing I can figure is valhalla is assuming an 80 percent of total for safety margin. From what I just read online, this is probably how he comes up with his rationale.

The 1996 NEC recognizes that overcurrent protective devices will be affected by heat in the system. As such, it defines the concept of continuous loads and the 80% rule to try and offset the effects of heat in the system when sizing a CB.

A CB either carries a standard rating (80 percent) or a 100 percent rating. CBs that are 100%-rated are permitted to be loaded continuously at their full rating as long as the assembly is listed and conductors are properly connected.

But, I assume that if the CB was incapable of sustaining 100 percent, then it would trip. So, if one was using 27 amps continuously, and it was incapable of keeping up with that, it trips, and then you go to zero. Not sure where the equipment damage comes into play. You are still going to draw 27 amps, even if the CB is rated for 80 percent continuous. It's not like the CB is a smart system and can throttle the output.

Mike

valhalla360 wrote:

Mandalay Parr wrote:
I can run both of mine on 30. They draw about 27-28 total. One is a 15 and the other 13.5.

Keep in mind a 30amp is really only rated for 25amps continuous. Drawing continuous 27-28 amps is a good way to burn out equipment. If you are lucky it just trips the circuit breaker.

You may or may not be able to get both units going but it's really a not a good idea.

Huh? What gets damaged drawing 27 amps? A breaker only has two positions, on or off. If it is on, the power being delivered will be 120 volts +/- 5 percent per NEC. If it is tripped to off, the power being delivered will be zero volts +/- an infinite percent (zero times anything is still zero). Where things get damaged is when voltage fluctuates high or low. The only possible damage would be if something gets harmed by the power suddenly cutting out due to a breaker tripping. Almost all appliances are built with that potential in mind so they aren't going to be damaged. The biggest threat would be if something got harmed because the appliance stopped working. Pets might overheat if the AC quits and the Chicken Fried Steak is going to be mighty greasy should the electric frying pan cut out in mid fry, but the skillet and the AC unit will almost assuredly continue to work once power is restored.

OP??

OP??

You people are talking to yourselves. The OP went missing.

Lantley wrote:

Grady23 wrote:
Anyone ever install a separate circuit on a remote breaker box for a 110 service? This was a recommendation from a mechanic working at a well known camping center. Then the bedroom A/C would be on its own 110 circuit and plugged in to the 30 Amp for the main 5th and a sep heavy duty extention on the post

This ^^^^ is a very viable idea.
THe gadget below is designed to do just that it will allow you to run both AC's on a 30 amp site


Check it out

I have an RV SafePower Switch. It allows me to run both AC's on a 30 amp site. Work like a champ

The problem with that, is most 20 amp outlets are GFCI, which will immediately blow if you try and connect that box!

Lantley wrote:

Grady23 wrote:
Anyone ever install a separate circuit on a remote breaker box for a 110 service? This was a recommendation from a mechanic working at a well known camping center. Then the bedroom A/C would be on its own 110 circuit and plugged in to the 30 Amp for the main 5th and a sep heavy duty extention on the post

This ^^^^ is a very viable idea.
THe gadget below is designed to do just that it will allow you to run both AC's on a 30 amp site


Check it out

I have an RV SafePower Switch. It allows me to run both AC's on a 30 amp site. Work like a champ

How does it hook up? It looks like a manual transfer switch that's very expensive.

They make a dongle that plugs into the 30a connection and also the 20a on a regular power pole but from what I have heard if the pole has a GFIC they don't work. OR if the pole only has 30a going to it.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55025-PowerGrip-Maximizer-Adapter/dp/B0024E70L2