30 amp for duel AC

If a CB exceeds 80 percent on continuous load, and overheats, would it not trip? The overheat and subsequent trip doesn't hurt the equipment does it? I think that is what WRVPO was trying to say by saying it's either on, or off... If it is drawing 28 amps, and overheating, I don't THINK it is a smart CB and throttles back to reduce overheating, it logically would trip (or catch fire maybe?)?

Point being it could certainly create issues, but if the equipment is drawing 28 amps and the circuit is providing it, the equipment continues to run until the circuit trips, burns up or what have you, right? And if the circuit trips, the equipment quits and for the most part, if equipment does that, it recovers okay.

Mike

CA Traveler wrote:

westernrvparkowner wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

Mandalay Parr wrote:
I can run both of mine on 30. They draw about 27-28 total. One is a 15 and the other 13.5.

Keep in mind a 30amp is really only rated for 25amps continuous. Drawing continuous 27-28 amps is a good way to burn out equipment. If you are lucky it just trips the circuit breaker.

You may or may not be able to get both units going but it's really a not a good idea.

Huh? What gets damaged drawing 27 amps? A breaker only has two positions, on or off. If it is on, the power being delivered will be 120 volts +/- 5 percent per NEC. If it is tripped to off, the power being delivered will be zero volts +/- an infinite percent (zero times anything is still zero). Where things get damaged is when voltage fluctuates high or low. The only possible damage would be if something gets harmed by the power suddenly cutting out due to a breaker tripping. Almost all appliances are built with that potential in mind so they aren't going to be damaged. The biggest threat would be if something got harmed because the appliance stopped working. Pets might overheat if the AC quits and the Chicken Fried Steak is going to be mighty greasy should the electric frying pan cut out in mid fry, but the skillet and the AC unit will almost assuredly continue to work once power is restored.

Western... lots of very good information from you but this isn't one.

The NEC recommendation is to limit the loads to 80 percent for CONTINUOUS loads which is basically what A/Cs can represent and what he posted. The concern is not voltage or appliances but rather the heat generated at the plug with continuous loads.

Careful examination of a typical 30 amp receptacle will show it has been overheated! You almost never see a 50 amp receptacle in the same condition. This shows that overheating is a big problem with 30 amp sites!

westernrvparkowner wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

Mandalay Parr wrote:
I can run both of mine on 30. They draw about 27-28 total. One is a 15 and the other 13.5.

Keep in mind a 30amp is really only rated for 25amps continuous. Drawing continuous 27-28 amps is a good way to burn out equipment. If you are lucky it just trips the circuit breaker.

You may or may not be able to get both units going but it's really a not a good idea.

Huh? What gets damaged drawing 27 amps? A breaker only has two positions, on or off. If it is on, the power being delivered will be 120 volts +/- 5 percent per NEC. If it is tripped to off, the power being delivered will be zero volts +/- an infinite percent (zero times anything is still zero). Where things get damaged is when voltage fluctuates high or low. The only possible damage would be if something gets harmed by the power suddenly cutting out due to a breaker tripping. Almost all appliances are built with that potential in mind so they aren't going to be damaged. The biggest threat would be if something got harmed because the appliance stopped working. Pets might overheat if the AC quits and the Chicken Fried Steak is going to be mighty greasy should the electric frying pan cut out in mid fry, but the skillet and the AC unit will almost assuredly continue to work once power is restored.

Western... lots of very good information from you but this isn't one.

The NEC recommendation is to limit the loads to 80 percent for CONTINUOUS loads which is basically what A/Cs can represent and what he posted. The concern is not voltage or appliances but rather the heat generated at the plug with continuous loads.

jaycocamprs wrote:

Lantley wrote:

enblethen wrote:
Device looks very similar to Progressive Dynamics cheater box. It specifically says no GFCI and receptacles must be on separate circuits.
Cheater box

It is nothing like a cheater box. This unit is hardwired into the RV. Two different animals.

So it is a transfer switch that transfers just 1 AC unit off the main trailer power over to the dedicated 20-amp circuit. And by transferring both hot and neutral, the load thru the GFCI is the same on both hot and neutral

Yes and it works....
Once you grasp, believe,understand,trust that it really works.
You will hopefully see the game changing possibilities of the device. I did and It will change my camping destinations. OPtions always have options. Being able to use both AC's on a 30 amp sites will give me lots more options.

Attached below is a flyer from RVsafepower. They clearly advertise that it works on GFI circuits. I am here to verify it works on GFI circuits!

Lantley wrote:

enblethen wrote:
Device looks very similar to Progressive Dynamics cheater box. It specifically says no GFCI and receptacles must be on separate circuits.
Cheater box

It is nothing like a cheater box. This unit is hardwired into the RV. Two different animals.

So it is a transfer switch that transfers just 1 AC unit off the main trailer power over to the dedicated 20-amp circuit. And by transferring both hot and neutral, the load thru the GFCI is the same on both hot and neutral

It will also depend on the size of the AC units on the trailer. You did not mention the cooling capacities of the units. On my trailer, I have two AC units, one is 15,000 btus, and the other is 13,500 btus. I can and have run both units at the same time on 30 amp service. If both units were 15,000 btus, I suspect they both might not run at the same time.

I just have one question. If the wire going to the campground pedestal is sized for 30A service how are you going to get 50A? A lot of pedestals use wire to the pedestal that can support 30A service OR 20A service but not both at the same time. Sneaky trick used to save money on wire when setting up a campground.

I would need to see exactly how the interior is wired.

enblethen wrote:
Device looks very similar to Progressive Dynamics cheater box. It specifically says no GFCI and receptacles must be on separate circuits.
Cheater box

It is nothing like a cheater box. This unit is hardwired into the RV. Two different animals.
What I find interesting is you guys are making the same mistake I almost made. I was too quick to dismiss the switch as a cheater box or some other gadget that would not work on GFCI etc.
I saw it as some Rube Goldberg gimmick that would trip breakers or work sometimes and not others. Just like you guys are thinking I was wrong.
At some point I cleared my mind and actually listened!
Once I paid attention to what the maker of the device was actually saying vs. thinking I knew what he was going to say. I realized that if his device really worked as advertised it would be a real game changer.
As it turned out I was the guinea pig a bought the device.
the device works as advertised. Essentially it allows you to run your 2nd AC off of the 20 amp circuit at the pedestal. The device works on GFI circuits and non GFI circuits.
I used the device at MB state park this summer in 100 degree heat and it worked like a champ on a GFI circuit.
Simply plug in 30 amp cord as normal and then plug 2nd dedicated 20 amp cord into pedestal flip switch to pedestal mode and your set.
All circuits are UL approved and breaker protected.
This is not your grandfather's cheater box!
Last year I booked very few 30 amps sites. I avoided them like the plague because I need both AC's blowing to keep unit cool in the mid Atlantic heat and humidity. This meant I avoided lots of state parks and older places with only 30 amp service. This upcoming year will be different. I no longer have to fear 30 amp sites. I plan to put a few of my old destinations back on the itinerary now that I have the 30 amp solution!
All I can say to you doubting Thomas's is that it works! Yes even on GFI circuits