Another tire post

NO where on a tire does it state strength.



Again you are confusion Max Load Capacity with strength. That is the problem with lightly built ST tires. They have a high load capacity and not the beef to live up to there inflated ratings. I use to debate this issue with Fasteagle all the time.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=195

Strength plays into the capablity to be a load range C, D, E, or G etc tire with the assossciated higher inflation pressure.

Have you ever heard a car or light truck manufacturer state that one of their tires looses 10 percent of its load capacity per year? Chris

Me Again wrote:

CALandLIN wrote:


The strength of the tire above is 3042# at 80 psi. Durability is not measurable.

Again you are confusing load capacity with strength. 3042 is a max load capacity at 80 psi.

"A tire's maximum load is the most weight the tire is designed to carry. Since a tire's load carrying capacity is related to the tire's size and how much inflation pressure is actually used, maximum loads are rated with the tire inflated to an industry assigned inflation pressure. ... Max Load Pressure."

" Body plies give the tire structure strength. Sidewall plays an important role in strengthening of tire. Beads are inflexible and inelastic, and provide the mechanical strength to fit the tire to the wheel. Bead rubber includes additives to maximize strength and toughness of tyres. Belts give the tire strength and dent resistance while allowing it to remain flexible."

If you have ever handled a GY G614, XPS Rib or R250 and then just about any run of the mill ST tire, you know that the fore mentioned tires are built to stronger "strength" standards.

I real life out on the road the stronger tires I referred to out last the lesser ones 2 to 1 or more in service life.

A tire's maximum strength is what it's manufacturer says it is. They do that by putting it on the tire's sidewall along with the inflation pressure needed to achieve that strength.

It's really not a debatable subject because there is no other load capacity justification statements to be found.

For a longer lasting tire one can factor-in durability and materials but they cannot be confused with casing strength ability that has been certified by the tire manufacturer and displayed where everyone can see the bottom line.

CALandLIN wrote:


The strength of the tire above is 3042# at 80 psi. Durability is not measurable.

Again you are confusing load capacity with strength. 3042 is a max load capacity at 80 psi.

"A tire's maximum load is the most weight the tire is designed to carry. Since a tire's load carrying capacity is related to the tire's size and how much inflation pressure is actually used, maximum loads are rated with the tire inflated to an industry assigned inflation pressure. ... Max Load Pressure."

" Body plies give the tire structure strength. Sidewall plays an important role in strengthening of tire. Beads are inflexible and inelastic, and provide the mechanical strength to fit the tire to the wheel. Bead rubber includes additives to maximize strength and toughness of tyres. Belts give the tire strength and dent resistance while allowing it to remain flexible."

If you have ever handled a GY G614, XPS Rib or R250 and then just about any run of the mill ST tire, you know that the fore mentioned tires are built to stronger "strength" standards.

I real life out on the road the stronger tires I referred to out last the lesser ones 2 to 1 or more in service life.

Me Again wrote:

CALandLIN wrote:


The load capacity of a tire is provided by the inflation pressure, so, insure you are inflating them to a value that exceeds what they have to carry.

I believe that is a miss statement. Inflation pressure determines capacity. Strength of a tire would be related to construction, plies, and ply material etc.

The strength of a Michelin XPS Rib LT235/85R16E at 80 lbs inflation is a a lot higher than a typical 34 pound ST235/80R16E. Hit a freeway aligator, frost heave or pot hole with each and see which holds up better. Chris

You're right. I corrected it to load capacity. Older people like me often times have brain f--ts or brain clouds...LOL.

The strength of the tire above is 3042# at 80 psi. Durability is not measurable.

CALandLIN wrote:


The strength of a tire is provided by the inflation pressure, so, insure you are inflating them to a value that exceeds what they have to carry.

I believe that is a miss statement. Inflation pressure determines capacity. Strength of a tire would be related to construction, plies, and ply material etc.

The strength of a Michelin XPS Rib LT235/85R16E at 80 lbs inflation is a a lot higher than a typical 34 pound ST235/80R16E. Hit a freeway aligator, frost heave or pot hole with each and see which holds up better. Chris

tkd01 wrote:
(quote Cummins12V98) Know your actual weights and inflate per Weight/Inflation chart plus 5psi. Most likely 85-90 psi will do the trick. 110 will most likely give a rough ride.
This is what I did. I had a blowout and cost about $2,500.00. Luckily insurance paid for it. I went to a pro trailer company that deals mainly with construction trailers, and those people are very particular what goes on their trailers to haul their heavy expensive equipment around. Anyway, they advised me to go with a G rated 14 ply tire that they have yet to hear anyone have a blowout with. Punctures, of course is another story. So, I agreed even though my CC Silverback is only rated for max 14K pounds and had E rated tires. Wheels are rated for 3052 pounds with 6K axles. I was also concerned about the PSI requirements, and hey told me to worry more about the weight rating of the wheel and that will dictate the PSI you should be using for any tire. Even though the tire is rated for 110 PSI max we are using between 85 and 90 for the max load that I could put on my trailer anyway. If I seen any abnormal tire wear I could adjust the tire pressure accordingly. Just remember your wheel is rated for certain pounds not so much PSI. The max weight rating dictates the PSI you need. I guess that makes sense. Also, I was kind of worried about the size of the G rated tires since I had to go 85 instead of 80. Luckily I had at least the 1 inch of clearance between the tires that is recommended. Close though, the tread pattern on these are really different from the usual tires I see, but they do seen to ride very good in the last 1K miles I put on them so far. Very thick and hard to put on tires. Hope I don't have anymore blow outs. Can't remember the name of these but they are radial ST tires. I believe they are almost all made in China.

When using a replacement tire with a higher load capacity than the OE tires provided, the industry standard is to use an inflation pressure in the replacement tire that will cause it to equal or exceed the load capacity the OE tire provided. Usually the reason for the stronger tire is for it to provide more load capacity reserves. So, increased inflation pressure will do that with the higher rated tire.

The load capacity of a tire is provided by the inflation pressure, so, insure you are inflating them to a value that exceeds what they have to carry.

Just a note: Sometimes those that provide commercial tires use the wrong set of instructions about inflation. The Federal Motor Carrier Administration’s standards are not interchangeable with the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards which are the standards for all RV trailers.

CALandLIN wrote:
The 16" LRG steel cased tires have a single approved rim width. Their manufacturer's are so serious about it they put it right on the tire's sidewall.

Click here for a look see.

Hey FastEagle, Oops CALandLIN, that misleading photo could have come from anywhere. How about posting something that everyone can understand, not a bunch of lawyer speak!?

Keith

The Sailun S367 is the best known chinese LRG trailer tire. Gladiator QR-35-TR AS is another. Westlake WL410 Lionshead LRG along with a few others. These are all steel ply tires similar to the GY G614 LRG, Michelin XPS Rib LRE and Bridgestone Duravis R250 LRE. which are highly regarded. These tires are all heavy, weighting in the high 50 to low 60 pound range. Chris

(quote Cummins12V98) Know your actual weights and inflate per Weight/Inflation chart plus 5psi. Most likely 85-90 psi will do the trick. 110 will most likely give a rough ride.
This is what I did. I had a blowout and cost about $2,500.00. Luckily insurance paid for it. I went to a pro trailer company that deals mainly with construction trailers, and those people are very particular what goes on their trailers to haul their heavy expensive equipment around. Anyway, they advised me to go with a G rated 14 ply tire that they have yet to hear anyone have a blowout with. Punctures, of course is another story. So, I agreed even though my CC Silverback is only rated for max 14K pounds and had E rated tires. Wheels are rated for 3052 pounds with 6K axles. I was also concerned about the PSI requirements, and hey told me to worry more about the weight rating of the wheel and that will dictate the PSI you should be using for any tire. Even though the tire is rated for 110 PSI max we are using between 85 and 90 for the max load that I could put on my trailer anyway. If I seen any abnormal tire wear I could adjust the tire pressure accordingly. Just remember your wheel is rated for certain pounds not so much PSI. The max weight rating dictates the PSI you need. I guess that makes sense. Also, I was kind of worried about the size of the G rated tires since I had to go 85 instead of 80. Luckily I had at least the 1 inch of clearance between the tires that is recommended. Close though, the tread pattern on these are really different from the usual tires I see, but they do seen to ride very good in the last 1K miles I put on them so far. Very thick and hard to put on tires. Hope I don't have anymore blow outs. Can't remember the name of these but they are radial ST tires. I believe they are almost all made in China.

The 16" LRG steel cased tires have a single approved rim width. Their manufacturer's are so serious about it they put it right on the tire's sidewall.

Click here for a look see.