Assume My Dump Valve is Closed and Won't Open !

Why don't you worry about a front wheel coming off
as you go down a steep hill?

Also, you could worry that as the wheel flies off,
it takes out your brake lines and power steering!

> Assume My Dump Valve is Closed and Won't Open !


Why don't we all just assume it's open and working fine? another beer?

fcooper wrote:
This is a solution that dougrainer posted last year for the problem of a broken pull handle. I hope I never have to do this, but here's the solution:

dougrainer wrote:
IF you have the standard 3 inch valve with the pull handle. The pull handle has BROKEN loose from the knife valve. NOTHING you do externally will open it. What you have to do is, connect your dump hose and install in sewer drain. On the opposite side of that pull rod on the valve body, you drill a 1/4 inch hole thru the plastic valve body and then insert a 1/4 inch rod (most phillip screwdrivers are 1/4 inch or sl;ifghtly smaller) and shove the internal plastic knife valve open. LEAVE that screwdriver IN or you will get a little sewage out that hole and have the 1/4 rod avaiable immediately after drill that hole to prevent excess waste from coming out that hole. Then replace the complete valve after flushing out the system. Doug

Fred

...........Thanks for your suggestion Fred ! That is very helpful . , jf

westernrvparkowner wrote:
The most cost effective solution will be a septic pumping service, you will be able to save a bunch of money because you can take the rig to them, saving a trip charge. To pump out sewage you are going to need a trash pump, they are big, heavy and tend to leak. Most are gasoline engine driven. You can rent them very easily at most any rental company, but that will be on nasty job. Since the valves are working but apparently are becoming sticky, change them now. They cost about twenty five bucks, and are very easy to install. Not worth waiting until the current ones cause a big problem.

............Thank You , this is basically what I've been saying all along ! All I have to do now is figure out how to remove the steel panel that Travel Supreme installed in front of the plumbing and dump valves ! , jf

This is a solution that dougrainer posted last year for the problem of a broken pull handle. I hope I never have to do this, but here's the solution:

dougrainer wrote:
IF you have the standard 3 inch valve with the pull handle. The pull handle has BROKEN loose from the knife valve. NOTHING you do externally will open it. What you have to do is, connect your dump hose and install in sewer drain. On the opposite side of that pull rod on the valve body, you drill a 1/4 inch hole thru the plastic valve body and then insert a 1/4 inch rod (most phillip screwdrivers are 1/4 inch or sl;ifghtly smaller) and shove the internal plastic knife valve open. LEAVE that screwdriver IN or you will get a little sewage out that hole and have the 1/4 rod avaiable immediately after drill that hole to prevent excess waste from coming out that hole. Then replace the complete valve after flushing out the system. Doug

Fred

jimmyfred wrote:
...........So what pump do I Need so I can run a hose down into the black tank via the commode and siphon out the contents and then replace the dump valve ? , thanks , jigger

time to trade in on a new trailer
;)

The most cost effective solution will be a septic pumping service, you will be able to save a bunch of money because you can take the rig to them, saving a trip charge. To pump out sewage you are going to need a trash pump, they are big, heavy and tend to leak. Most are gasoline engine driven. You can rent them very easily at most any rental company, but that will be on nasty job. Since the valves are working but apparently are becoming sticky, change them now. They cost about twenty five bucks, and are very easy to install. Not worth waiting until the current ones cause a big problem.

4x4ord wrote:
Just carry an extra bit of garden hose to use as a siphon. Put your lips to that hose and once you get the siphon started it should continue to get most the liquid out. Alternately you could just pull your rig off the road somewhereunscrew the valve and let er rip.

If you are going to do that ( I do not recommend it), why stop and dump...just dump while going down the road. I hope you were kidding!

Just carry an extra bit of garden hose to use as a siphon. Put your lips to that hose and once you get the siphon started it should continue to get most the liquid out. Alternately you could just pull your rig off the road somewhereunscrew the valve and let er rip.

jimmyfred wrote:

wkswenson wrote:
Most of the pumps that I have seen use the 3" pipe and macerate the contents down to a garden hose size.

Most of these pumps are $200-400 range.

.........Thanks , flojet makes several macerator pumps I just need to find the one with the most lift capacity ! , jf

I own a flo-jet.

Posters are correct - 3" sewer connection "IN".....
garden hose connection "OUT".

The flow of liquid to the pump is by gravity.

I've never tried to "draft" (suck "up") with the pump - doubtful operation with the RV model.

If you go that route, you probably want the one intended for boats.

But there still could be a glitch:
It *might* work *if* there were are *NO* bends in the toilet plumbing. Mine has an "S" bend.

As others have suggested (and assuming you have a cable operated valve) - gain access to the valve for manual operation.

If you really have to "beat up" the valve, get one of the add-on dump valves that attach to the end of your outlet. (about $15).
Now you have a way to keep the waste from draining - until you're ready.

Best of luck - it's a s****y (two t's?) job any way you look at it..:(


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