Battery size question

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Thermoguy wrote:
To the OP - you never say how old your batteries are other than a couple years. If they are still good, why replace them just to get something you can lift? Just disconnect and leave in the trailer - or is there a reason that is not an option? If your batteries are not very old but not charging properly anymore, why? Have you used battery power to a point where you are damaging the battery and not getting proper life out of them? If this is the case, going to a single battery will be harder on that 1 battery and damage it quicker, also possibly leaving you without power if you drain the battery to a lower state. Something to think about before you switch to a single battery. But, with the battery you are choosing, you can always add a 2nd. I went the route of 2 6v, but I like to boondock vs apartment complex camping.

My batteries died because I ASSumed that the battery disconnect switch I had the dealer install worked like the one in my previous trailer. It didn't. For whatever reason, there is a leaky parasitic drain of some sort. I store my camper off site, and because we moved last Spring, I didn't check on it for 3 months. Batteries were dead and won't hold a charge. My other camper never had that problem. The disconnect on that trailer absolutely killed all power to the batteries.

No big deal though. It was my fault for not checking the draw. I'm an experienced RV owner. Been doing this since 2009. The difference now is that we don't boondock at all anymore. The 5er is our mobile hotel. That's why I'm moving to one battery. It'll be so much easier to disconnect and remove it when need be. I'll try to post a picture of my battery box. For whatever reason, they bolted a steel shelf just above where the batteries sit, so squeezing 2 Group 27 batts in there is almost impossible. I literally cut both of my hands when trying to remove them, and connecting the wiring is almost impossible. Not worth it.

I totally hear what you're saying about 2 batteries though. If I still boondocked, I'd expand the battery box and solve the problem. I just don't use the camper like that anymore.

To the OP - you never say how old your batteries are other than a couple years. If they are still good, why replace them just to get something you can lift? Just disconnect and leave in the trailer - or is there a reason that is not an option? If your batteries are not very old but not charging properly anymore, why? Have you used battery power to a point where you are damaging the battery and not getting proper life out of them? If this is the case, going to a single battery will be harder on that 1 battery and damage it quicker, also possibly leaving you without power if you drain the battery to a lower state. Something to think about before you switch to a single battery. But, with the battery you are choosing, you can always add a 2nd. I went the route of 2 6v, but I like to boondock vs apartment complex camping.

bobbyg123,

The type of monitor you have can't be calibrated--so there is nothing you need to do except get a true deep cycle AGM battery (it will last longer).

My own personal choice would be an SiO2 which may have a lifespan of well over 10 years.

CA Traveler wrote:
For pedestal to pedestal one small battery is OK. Charger is OK, a battery monitor if equipped would need to be recalibrated.

What do you mean by battery monitor? Like the one on the main control panel that shows the tank/battery levels?

For pedestal to pedestal one small battery is OK. Charger is OK, a battery monitor if equipped would need to be recalibrated.

Thanks so much for all of the replies. After some thought, I think I'm simply going to move down to just 1 deep cycle battery. Now that I've gotten a bit older and my boys are grown, we never...and I mean NEVER dry camp anymore. Camping for us means going to RV parks or State parks with hookups or tailgaiting for football games with the generator running all night.

I feel great about this decision, because believe me, fitting (2) Group 27 batteries into my battery box is HELL!!! It's just not made for it.

My final questions for you guys. Do I need to reprogram the converter or do anything to the coach if I move down to 1 battery? I wouldn't think so, but I thought I'd ask. Also, is there any benefit to purchasing a Group 31 over a Group 27 deep cycle battery, or are the differences negligible?

Thanks again everyone!!

bobbyg123 wrote:
Hi everyone,

Long story short, I made the mistake a few years ago of purchasing the biggest batteries that I could fit into the provided box on my 5th wheel, but the spacing is so tight that it was a major pain in the arse to remove them for winter storage. The worst part of the decision is that I didn't even need the extra power that the batteries provided. Live and learn.

OK, so now I'm ready to replace the batteries, and I want to do it right. Since I'm already set up to run 2 batteries in parallel, I'll probably just go that route with (2) 24M Group Batteries. I think they're only 2" shorter in length, but that's exactly what I need to get them in/out more easily.

Is there anything else I should consider that I might be missing? Lastly, what's a good middle of the road battery brand? I've always used Interstate batteries, but the nearest dealer is too far away from me now.

Thanks.

Personally, I've run 2 6v golf cart batteries for almost 15 years, now. Get them at Sam's or Costco. Also both my old Komfort and my current KZ have factory battery disconnects. On both rigs, the switch killed =everything= but the slides and landing legs. TV's dead, stereo's dead, LP/CO detector's dead, microwave's dead. Smoke detector in both rigs used internal 9v batteries, so that's a moot point. Frankly, the easiest disconnect "switch", is to simply pull a ground wire off one of the batteries.

Lyle

I agree with Pianotuna - there's no need to remove them. Just charge them and disconnect the leads. My batteries last 7 - 8 years that way, why make life difficult and you're not getting any younger or stronger.

Bill

This is my battery monitor shunt and disconnect switch. While the house batteries are AGM (with no corroding fumes) there are nearby flooded starting batteries. I spray the shunt and the connections with a battery protector.