Brake pads for TV

Thanks for all the great information and a lot to digest.

Shrek51 wrote:
When you put ceramic pads on you need to replace rotors with drilled and slotted rotor upgrade or they will over heat and warp the stock rotors.

TO add to that , if you have the cash, replace with new calipers when you upgrade.

http://www.powerstop.com/

That whole drilled and slotted rotor thing is a farce also... Those are just to look cool, and the high end cars use them becuase people are misimformed.

People think it means performance so the car makers add them for sales thats all..

Just look at what the racing industry uses and youll get your answer.
Here is a rotor on an F1 formula car..



Here is what happens to drilled rotors from the heat..



Drilled and slotted rotors were used years ago for old technology pads ( aspestos)to release the gas coming off the pads to prolong the life of those pads.. Thats it.

We have come a long way since then. Drilled rotors today often crack because the holes promote cool/hot spots on a rotor.

Slots on rotors and thier use are for brake dust. This is already built into the pad hence the slot in the pad...

Dont buy into the hype...

Just my opinion.. Google it if you dont believe and make your own assumptions..

I use Hawk Performance LTS pads on my F250 and the difference in stopping power was amazing.

I use brown box Ford pads, not Motorcraft. My truck stops, and the pads last a long time.

I do believe you can get 3rd party pads that stop faster, but only at the expense of life span. Not what I need on this truck, but I can understand those who do.

OEM direct from my Chevrolet parts department. You get what you pay for.

B.O.

Ceramic pads are well known to fade when towing. They are fine if you don't tow or on a passenger car. I prefer semi-metallic pads for my tow vehicle. That's just been my experience in over 20 years of towing.

That said I've been happiest with the premium line of pads from NAPA. They have always outperformed OEM pads that I've had. Granted they do not last as long as OEM, but my goal is better performance, not how long they last. If I change them every 30k or 40k I'm not concerned.

Currently my truck has a set of Adaptive One pads which are a hybrid of semi-metallic and ceramic. After one year I can say they are simply excellent. My only nit is that they claim they are dust free. Not true. Low dust, but not dust free.

Original OEM should be fine. But, if you do "a lot" of mountain driving and tend to use your brakes "a lot", you "may" consider a pad that is more "fade" resistant. You may want to consider a semi-metallic or a ceramic! memtb

OEM here

ScottG wrote:

lawrosa wrote:
Stock AC delco here,,

If ya all buy into those brake claims then I have some volcano insurance to sell you ...:E


Stick with OEM...

Has nothing to do with claims (what claims?). Has everything to do with actually trying something else and gaining some experience.
Like everything else on vehicles, the brake pads are built for a price and then performance. Going to a specialty company that has no such limitations nets a better product but at a higher price - which is well worth it.
Another thing, when you go to the dealer to get "OEM", you are not getting what came on the truck. You are getting a cheaper substitute that makes them even more money. This goes for all of the big three.
Not only do premium pads take less pressure to stop the vehicle, they will stop a loaded rig faster than the stock parts.
In a panic situation, the feet you save can make all the difference.

Perhaps your experience is different from mine, but when I buy OEM pads for my truck I get the original quality pads, not Motorcraft.

Look up brake pads for your vehicle at RockAuto.com. They will have a section for towing/heavy duty applications. This should give you an idea of the best options for pads for your circumstances.