Cant get hitched-Trying to leave

Wackum wrote:
On the Reese web site for the new 16-18-25K elite fifth wheel hitch . It says to open jaws and back in to hitch with king pin 1/2 to 1 inch below level and have king pin plate slide up the hitch. When pin is latched jaws will close , pull test a little , put in lock pin and ready to go. The older models you can back in to with jaws closed. Hope this clears up a little confusion on the Reese hitch

Correct on the need to have the hitch in the open position when hitching. This is because it has a single jaw and would have no way to open it during the hitching process.

On the Reese web site for the new 16-18-25K elite fifth wheel hitch . It says to open jaws and back in to hitch with king pin 1/2 to 1 inch below level and have king pin plate slide up the hitch. When pin is latched jaws will close , pull test a little , put in lock pin and ready to go. The older models you can back in to with jaws closed. Hope this clears up a little confusion on the Reese hitch

ChopperBill, I didn't say that the jaws have to be closed, I just said that that was the way I did it to be able to see the handle move indicating that the jaws had come open and then closed. Thanks to azjeffh for the note from the Reese manual. I don't remember reading this, just started doing this in 1993 when we bought our first FW and have done it ever since.

davidaf wrote:


So I've been doing it wrong for 10+ years. Oh well, if it works don't fix it.

And I've done it right for 11 :) Just stating what the instructions say.

Some hitches were not meant for using a lub disk. I think you may have one. The distance the lub plate adds causes the trailer pin to not line up with the tab others have mentioned hence your jaws do not close.

davidaf wrote:

azjeffh wrote:


4. With handle in the closed position (See Fig. 10), back truck slowly into trailer. As the trailer king pin enters the hitch it will push the hitch jaws open and extend the handle (See Fig. 11). As king pin completely enters head, jaws will spring closed around king pin and handle will return to the closed position.

So I've been doing it wrong for 10+ years. Oh well, if it works don't fix it.

Maybe not wrong, just not per instructions! If done per instructions you. An do the pull test as soon as you have backed into the hitch, as the jaws are shut and the pin is locked! Latching the handle can happen when you get out of the cab.

azjeffh wrote:


4. With handle in the closed position (See Fig. 10), back truck slowly into trailer. As the trailer king pin enters the hitch it will push the hitch jaws open and extend the handle (See Fig. 11). As king pin completely enters head, jaws will spring closed around king pin and handle will return to the closed position.

So I've been doing it wrong for 10+ years. Oh well, if it works don't fix it.

Well, just as an update. Had trouble again today, however only once.

I backed into the hitch today, same problem. I drove out of the hitch, my lube plate fell into my truck bed. Some of the teeth that grip the king pin, were a bit smashed up, no clue how it happened.

Anyhow, i didnt change a thing, backed back up and it went with no issues.

Going to buy a new lube plate before we travel again, however, the one i had was 10", do i need to go to 12"? Wondering if this is my problem. I was talking to a fellow here at the campground, he thought perhaps the plate was on upside down?

Glad you got hitched and back on the road.

This is where maintenance is also important. Keep everything clean and oiled and/or greased to keep it working well. We had trouble with all the rain this spring and had to give our hitch an emergency dose of WD-40 to coax it to close.

ReneeG wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

ReneeG wrote:
Although we have a Hensley TrailerSaver hitch, I found this conversation very interesting. Glad the OP got it figured out. There are similarities in that the TS requires the handle of the head to be in a certain position when hitching. Upon hitching you will know it because the jaws will be visibly clamped and the handle will be in the locked position. If neither is done, it won't hitch correctly. Also, we found that if our Teflon plate is warped, it won't lock, so we keep spares. Thanks for the information.

FYI if you did not know Hensley makes a 1/8" slip plate. I use one on my B&W. It makes it easier to tell when the weight has been removed so the handle can be opened and drive off.

That's what we have.

.I had a Hensley before it broke the second year, price was about $25 shipped if I recall.I hogged one out of the bottom of a five gallon pail. Been on about five years still working fine. Price zero