Changing flat tire

tim1970 wrote:
16.5 is the total height at full extension. So, it looks like my only option is to place the jack under the axle. I guess I could use a small piece of 2x4 to spread the weight out some on the axle.
Why does the manual say not to do this? Is this just a CYA tactic for when somebody that doesn't know any better puts the jack under the axle in the center of the trailer?

You got it in one. If they didn't say anything some yahoo would jack in the center of the axle and then sue because "Nobody said I couldn't jack under the axle".

When the rig is sitting on a solid surface the jack can be placed under the spring or under the axle tube very close to the spring. The problem you may have is that the other tire may be sunk into the ground. If so you may need to lift too far on the axle which has the flat which would be like trying to lift all the weight of that side of the rig with one axle.

When on hard surfaces and lifting under one axle the dog bone will pivot as that axle rises and the tire has clearance to fit on the studs. Do you picture what I'm saying? If the other tire is sunk in, you may need to lift equally under both axles or at the frame in front of the axles. Just thought I'd mention it since it's common when sitting in yards instead of driveways.

I like RR ties for a really stable base for the bottle jack. Also put a board on top of the jack to spread the load on the frame.

MFL wrote:


I also carry a trailer-aid, for quick change while traveling.

Jerry

I read that a trailer-aid would not really work on any modern RV's because of the type of suspension. Are you able to get the tire off the ground with this?

rhagfo wrote:
Well any time I need to jack up a wheel, I place the bottle jack under the axle directly under the spring. Many feel better placing the jack under the "U" bolt, but I put it on the tube its self. You state your jack goes up 16.5", but didn't say if that was the total lift, or total height at full extension. If you lift on the frame, you need to lift the distance of the tire side wall, flat correct, and the spring travel, likely close to 16". Lifting on the axle you only need to lift the height of the side wall and about another inch.
Jack is sitting on the ground or single layer of 2X6 or what ever, not a wobbly stack 10" tall.
Easier and safer.

16.5 is the total height at full extension. So, it looks like my only option is to place the jack under the axle. I guess I could use a small piece of 2x4 to spread the weight out some on the axle.
Why does the manual say not to do this? Is this just a CYA tactic for when somebody that doesn't know any better puts the jack under the axle in the center of the trailer?

I cut a groove in a short piece of 2x4 hardwood. The groove cups the u-bolt while using bottle jack under hardwood. Works for me, although my manual also says to use the frame. IMO, kind of silly to lift whole side of trailer a bunch, when you only need to lift the axle an inch. YMMV

I also carry a trailer-aid, for quick change while traveling.

Jerry

Well any time I need to jack up a wheel, I place the bottle jack under the axle directly under the spring. Many feel better placing the jack under the "U" bolt, but I put it on the tube its self. You state your jack goes up 16.5", but didn't say if that was the total lift, or total height at full extension. If you lift on the frame, you need to lift the distance of the tire side wall, flat correct, and the spring travel, likely close to 16". Lifting on the axle you only need to lift the height of the side wall and about another inch.
Jack is sitting on the ground or single layer of 2X6 or what ever, not a wobbly stack 10" tall.
Easier and safer.

I put some scrap pieces of wood down. Worked just fine.

Not sure but smart to "dry run" a tire change in your backyard.

I would suggest getting a 4x4 fence post and cutting it into 15 or 20 inch lengths.

Stack them like Lincoln Logs. The footprint of the bottle jack just might crush the leggos.