Do I have to use water regulator

There are Watts and there are Watts.

Do yourself a favor and visit rvwaterfilterstore.com and get educated about RV water filters and pressure regulators. Then get an adjustable, high flow regulator with a gauge.

I full time and every year I run into places with really high water pressure. I use a Watts 263A regulator. Rebuildable. Isn't peace of mind worth $80 ? One less thing to worry about.

* On edit. I bought one of those adjustable Valterra regulators. About a year later, it developed a crack at a joint and started leaking. I then bought a Watts, which is what I should have done in the first place.

The Valterra comes pre-set at 45 PSI.
It is the basic design as the Watts. Watts Watts are preset at 40PSI.

nomad.297 wrote:

Dano1955 wrote:
I plan on using a regulator as cheap insurance. Just bought this one from Amazon.

Better safe than sorry.

You would never be sorry.

That's an "ok" PRV and should last you a couple of seasons without too much restriction. When you buy your next one look at Watts or Wilkins.

What pressure are you going to set it to?

Bruce

Strange the Valterra comes recommended by several, just in this thread alone. Seems to be more than OK to me. The Watts and Wilkins all appear to be overkill (IMO) but if a solid brass pressure regulator is just ok, don't know why others would recommend it.

davisenvy wrote:

SDcampowneroperator wrote:
Ask the camp about the water pressure at your site, or even better use a gauge like we do. Its a simple 0-100 # gauge adapted to hose thread. Might cost you 10 bucks to make one.
If the camp pressure is less than 60 psi, skip the regulator.
You see, the problem with most regulators is that they also restrict flow, so you get a weak shower if the pressure is within acceptable range, less than 60 psi.
You could spend the money for a Watts adjustable pressure full flow regulator, but why bother and spend the money when its so simple to just check it out beforehand?
We have seen parks with pressures from 25 psi (la state park) - 110 psi ( Tx pvt.) . Our State law requires a minimum of 25 psi with a flow of 2gpm.

This is exactly what I was wanting to know. I need to get a pressure gauge. I think some of the places I camp have low pressure and the regulator just makes it worse. Thanks for the replies.

"Our state law requires a minimum of 25 psi with a flow of 2gpm".

What about a *MAXIMUM* pressure?.

Having worked with municipal water systems - the pressure can (and does) fluctuate - especially at night time when demand on the system is low. Usually it's no problem.

However........

Depending on location, the supplying system *may* be very high pressure, regulated to (usually) about 80psi.
*Anything* is subject to failure, "theirs" too!

That's why a sticks and bricks house on a *municipal* system (city, county, etc.) has an adjustable regulator at the entry point.

When connected to any system, a "quality" regulator is a good choice.
The $10 RV variety are simply "restrictors".
Better than nothing - but not by much.

"Ask the park"..:h.. - the park *may* know, and be correct - but their method of regulating may be faulty or fail.

"Check it with a gauge"..:@.. - the reading you get is only good when you take it. Do you check psi at 3 AM?

"Do without"..:R.. - kinda like electrical surge protection. The only time you *really* need it is when there is (or was) a problem...:S

Failures of either can sure cause a lot of grief and "down time"...:(

Bottom line - as others have indicated - either use your water tank, and fill as needed.......or spend the 60 bucks or so for a watts regulator (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.).

Your dice to roll........;)


.

fj12ryder wrote:

nomad.297 wrote:
I never use one. I have been a plumber for over three decades and I have seen pressures up to 400psi on systems more "fragile" than an RV's system. At my last home, my street (and house) pressure was 120psi and I kept the water hooked up and on to my RV all season long. So many people have no idea about plumbing and are just spouting what somebody they think is smarter than them said. You can feel comfortable subjecting your RV to pressures well above the 40-45psi that I so often see posted here.

Take a real shower.

Bruce

I don't want to insult you but do you think it wise to advise people to ignore the rating imposed by builder of the unit? Maybe it is completely capable of withstanding the pressure you're talking about, but will you stand behind your statements with money to repair the damage if their particular plumbing won't withstand 120 psi because the dealer only installed a part built that was only good to 60 psi? Or they have some fittings that won't leak at 80 psi, but develop a seep/drip/leak at 130 psi? Some of these units are really poorly assembled and may not stand up to very high pressures.

I had the anti-siphon device, a cheap all plastic unit, on my toyhauler pop its top off when subjected to the high pressure of the water at Fishing Bridge in Yellowstone. There was a warning about using pressure regulators because of the high water pressure. I did have one on the water inlet, but hooked up the toilet flush straight to the faucet and it cracked the glue on the anti-siphon unit. Discovered it when I notice water running out the bottom of the toyhauler.

I agree...I highly doubt the RV builders use master plumbers to do their installs!!!...it's slap it together as fast as they can and the customer gets to leak test it!

nomad.297 wrote:
You can feel comfortable subjecting your RV to pressures well above the 40-45psi that I so often see posted here.

Not me. I get leaking from plumbing under the kitchen sink when hooked to city water. I use my pump exclusively now.

nomad.297 wrote:
I never use one. I have been a plumber for over three decades and I have seen pressures up to 400psi on systems more "fragile" than an RV's system. At my last home, my street (and house) pressure was 120psi and I kept the water hooked up and on to my RV all season long. So many people have no idea about plumbing and are just spouting what somebody they think is smarter than them said. You can feel comfortable subjecting your RV to pressures well above the 40-45psi that I so often see posted here.

Take a real shower.

Bruce

I don't want to insult you but do you think it wise to advise people to ignore the rating imposed by builder of the unit? Maybe it is completely capable of withstanding the pressure you're talking about, but will you stand behind your statements with money to repair the damage if their particular plumbing won't withstand 120 psi because the dealer only installed a part built that was only good to 60 psi? Or they have some fittings that won't leak at 80 psi, but develop a seep/drip/leak at 130 psi? Some of these units are really poorly assembled and may not stand up to very high pressures.

I had the anti-siphon device, a cheap all plastic unit, on my toyhauler pop its top off when subjected to the high pressure of the water at Fishing Bridge in Yellowstone. There was a warning about using pressure regulators because of the high water pressure. I did have one on the water inlet, but hooked up the toilet flush straight to the faucet and it cracked the glue on the anti-siphon unit. Discovered it when I notice water running out the bottom of the toyhauler.

Dano1955 wrote:
I plan on using a regulator as cheap insurance. Just bought this one from Amazon.

Better safe than sorry.

You would never be sorry.

That's an "ok" PRV and should last you a couple of seasons without too much restriction. When you buy your next one look at Watts or Wilkins.

What pressure are you going to set it to?

Bruce

I plan on using a regulator as cheap insurance. Just bought this one from Amazon.

Better safe than sorry.

SDcampowneroperator, 80psi is nothing to worry about.

Bruce