Forum Discussion

LarryDSLA's avatar
LarryDSLA
Explorer
Jun 03, 2013

Electric Brake Performance Issues

I recently changed the brake pads (12" X 2" 6K Axles) on my 2007 Cedar Creek Fifth Wheel trailer and adjusted as per manufacturer recommendations but the brakes are now week. Prior to the change, I could hold the manual slide and attempt to pull off and the trailer wouldn't move but now the trailer will move with some drag. I have approximately 50% of braking capacity that I had prior to the change of pads. I am using the 2011, F-250 integrated controller that came from the factory. What would you suggest I check and/or do from this point?
I tried listening for the magnets pulling into the inner drums but only heard humming at each wheel. The wheels were static and not free spinning at the time of this observation. Do the wheels need to be in rotation before hearing the magnets actually engaging with the drums or should I have heard them hit the inner surface even in a static situation?
1) I re-inspected and compared before and after photos taken in the duration of this task to verify all parts were re-installed correctly.
2) I re-adjusted the tension (more drag) on the brakes but I am not comfortable with the latest adjustment but it did increase braking slightly but not where they should be. My concern is they will run hot with the current tension.

2011 Ford Super Duty F-250
2007 Cedar Creek Fifth Wheel Travel Trailer 34RLTS

21 Replies

  • LarryDSLA's avatar
    LarryDSLA
    Explorer
    Jun 06, 2013
    Thank you. I readjusted and will check them again after my next trip.
  • Vulcaneer's avatar
    Vulcaneer
    Explorer
    Jun 05, 2013
    Larry. Now that you have your brakes fully seated to the drums, you might want to go back and re-adjust them again. Because once you have worn off the high spots on the shoes, the brake adjustment is now less than it should be for full travel. Your shoes are a bit thinner than they were on your first adjustment. So that initial break in wear needs to be compensated by adjusting out a little more.
  • LarryDSLA's avatar
    LarryDSLA
    Explorer
    Jun 05, 2013
    Update...I worked through the break-in procedure as recommended by a previous post and the Lippert recommendations were the same as described. After about 30 minutes working through this procedure, the brakes now feel normal. Thanks again for all of the responses as this proved to be very helpful.

    Larry
  • LarryDSLA's avatar
    LarryDSLA
    Explorer
    Jun 04, 2013
    Thanks to all who responded and I apologize for the confusion on the pads vs. shoes. All of my road vehichles have pads and that's what I normally work with and mis-stated pads for shoes. Very helpful information and the manufacturer recommendations were as stated in one of the posts as too adjust to a tight tension and then back off to a slight drag. I had a chance yesterday to free spin each wheel and the brake functions seem to work correctly. I also tested my voltage to the magnets from the controller as well as ohming the magnets and all checks passed and were in the correct ranges. The only thing I haven't had a chance to do is to drive the trailer and set the shoes. I will do that over the weekend and post my results. Again, very grateful for the responses and very helpful information. Still learning the electric brake systems. Thanks, Larry
  • LarryDSLA's avatar
    LarryDSLA
    Explorer
    Jun 04, 2013
    Thanks to all who responded and I apologize for the confusion on the pads vs. shoes. All of my road vehichles have pads and that's what I normally work with and mis-stated pads for shoes. Very helpful information and the manufacturer recommendations were as stated in one of the posts as too adjust to a tight tension and then back off to a slight drag. I had a chance yesterday to free spin each wheel and the brake functions seem to work correctly. I also tested my voltage to the magnets from the controller as well as ohming the magnets and all checks passed and were in the correct ranges. The only thing I haven't had a chance to do is to drive the trailer and set the shoes. I will do that over the weekend and post my results.

    Again, very grateful for the responses and very helpful information. Still learning the electric brake systems.

    Thanks,

    Larry
  • MC9's avatar
    MC9
    Explorer
    Jun 04, 2013
    You'll be surprised how hot your drums get during the breaking in process.
  • lakeside013104's avatar
    lakeside013104
    Explorer
    Jun 03, 2013
    I just recieved a new 2013 Bighorn. The manual tells how to "brake in" the new brake shoes. It says to drive 40 mph and use only the brake controler to slow the unit down to 20 mph. It says to complete this exercise about 20 times along with driving for a short distance between episodes so that the brake shoes / drums will cool corectly. The manual indicates it takes this amount of "brake in" peroid before shoes and drums mate up for 100% braking efficency. Good luck. Keep us posted.

    Lakeside
  • Charlie_D_'s avatar
    Charlie_D_
    Explorer
    Jun 03, 2013
    Had the same problem after replacing brake shoes. I was getting poor connection between the supply wires and the new magnets.
  • time2roll's avatar
    time2roll
    Nomad
    Jun 03, 2013
    5 amps would be high IMO and I would be inspecting the magnet for excessive wear or short.
  • Vulcaneer's avatar
    Vulcaneer
    Explorer
    Jun 03, 2013
    Amp spec should be 2.7 to 3.2 per wheel. Volts should be 11+ for full braking.

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