Electric water heater not very hot

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Suburban electric and propane use the same temp t-stats.
Separate sets of t-stats BUT same temp range
Normal temp t-stat (one that controls heating cycles) 130*F
High temp t-stat (shuts down heating if normal fails) 180*F

Electric and propane use completely different controls/power
Electric uses 120V AC from a circuit breaker to the ON/OFF switch to the Hi temp/Normal temp t-stats to the element
Elements either get HOT or they don't work---no in between warm
ON/OFF switch (in outside compartment) fail due to exposure to environment
Hi Temp trips....has to be MANUALLY reset (push to rest cover above gas valve---left side electric/right side propane)

Voltmeter...
With 120V AC CB closed...turn switch ON and then check that you have 120V AC at the element connections
With 120V AC CB opened....test element continuity across the black/white terminals. S/B continuity (No continuity---element BAD)
Test white terminal to element flange. S/B no continuity (Continuity...element shorted)





Here is the Propane 12V DC wiring

Can the electric T -Stat lose its' cut out point over time? Is it possible the stat is not touching the tank any longer, although this may cause a very hot tank.

man o' man would our suburban get hot on electric. we could both take our showers in the morning and still had enough hot water to wash dishes with.

If you are in a campground where the incoming water is much colder than usual, the electric only, may not keep up as well as the gas function of the heater. However, the electric should still start out hot, if electric side thermostat is working correctly.

Jerry

Are your outside shower knobs on with the head turned off?
Hot and cold mix there resulting in lukewarm shower.

OP'er, it would help greatly if you would state what type of HW heater you have. My Atwood will burn you on the electric if your not careful.

Suburban electric and propane use the same temp t-stats.
Separate sets of t-stats BUT same temp range
Normal temp t-stat (one that controls heating cycles) 130*F
High temp t-stat (shuts down heating if normal fails) 180*F

Electric and propane use completely different controls/power
Electric uses 120V AC from a circuit breaker to the ON/OFF switch to the Hi temp/Normal temp t-stats to the element
Elements either get HOT or they don't work---no in between warm
ON/OFF switch (in outside compartment) fail due to exposure to environment
Hi Temp trips....has to be MANUALLY reset (push to rest cover above gas valve---left side electric/right side propane)

Voltmeter...
With 120V AC CB closed...turn switch ON and then check that you have 120V AC at the element connections
With 120V AC CB opened....test element continuity across the black/white terminals. S/B continuity (No continuity---element BAD)
Test white terminal to element flange. S/B no continuity (Continuity...element shorted)





Here is the Propane 12V DC wiring

did you change the thermastat as well?