Electric Water Heater

don't have directions for an Atwood but if it is an Atwood I believe you have the incorrect plug in it. It should be nylon type plug. If that's a brass plug it may be fine. Whoever tells you how to change the element should be able to tell you about plug.

On the atwood the element is in the rear of the heater. Not knowing the type of trailer you have I don't know exactly where you will access it.

And yes you are suppose to use a nylon plug instead of the metal plug because your tank is aluminum and the metal plugs are not compatable.

Could be under the dining bench seat or under the sink. Just look from inside behind where the water heater is from outside. If it's a 5r then maybe behind the storage compartment.

Lots of youtube videos on how to replace the element depending on the maker of your water heater. Not hard at all.

Here is the basics>>>>>LINK CLICKY

Disregard.
Your gas is working.

Yikes if the element is at the back that might be a PITA. It's under the sink behind some drawers but maybe if I yank the drawers I can get to it without too much trouble. The plug appears to be brass. Is that ok with the tank? It's an older camper so I don't know if it's original but it's what came with it when I bought it.

IdaD wrote:
Yikes if the element is at the back that might be a PITA. It's under the sink behind some drawers but maybe if I yank the drawers I can get to it without too much trouble. The plug appears to be brass. Is that ok with the tank? It's an older camper so I don't know if it's original but it's what came with it when I bought it.

Supposedly, according to google anyway, the aluminum is corrosive when in contact with brass. I had an atwood previously and used the plastic as recommended but boy they are a pain if tightend to tight and then the head breaks off when you try to loosen it. I'm sure that's why some switch to a brass plug. Just not sure how long it would actually take to corrode the threads.

And also, once you pull the old element out you can purchase a new one at any hardware store. Just match the wattage to the old one. If you don't have a wrench for the element you may have to get that at the hardware store in advance.

The heating element is either behind that shield in the upper left or behind the gas line. I go with door #1.

Brass plug has got to go. The tank is aluminum and combined with brass plug, electrolytic corrosion of the tank will ensue. IE, the brass plug causes the water to eat away the aluminum, so the tank metal will get thinner. Eventually it will burst, probably around the brass plug.

You have a 2003 or previous Atwood water heater. (probably a G6A-8E model)

The electric element is under a protective cover on rear bottom of water heater tank

Element has 120V AC directly via a 120V Circuit Breaker (turn it OFF)
Element has it's own set of t-stats on rear of tank and an ON/OFF switch back there (OEM)---RV Mfg added an additional in series ON/OFF switch (thank them cause the OEM at back of tank is a PITA)

Drain tank......get NEW NYLON plug (they come in 2 set)
NYLON has HIGH temp rating (400*F) and is softer then the aluminum so it's threads will be damaged vs the aluminum drain hole threads.

Element size is a 1 1/2" ----use a thin walled 6 point socket with extension.
Those 'element tools work IF you have ROOM and don't need to crank on it to loosen element.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You have a 2003 or previous Atwood water heater. (probably a G6A-8E model)

The electric element is under a protective cover on rear bottom of water heater tank

Element has 120V AC directly via a 120V Circuit Breaker (turn it OFF)
Element has it's own set of t-stats on rear of tank and an ON/OFF switch back there (OEM)---RV Mfg added an additional in series ON/OFF switch (thank them cause the OEM at back of tank is a PITA)

Drain tank......get NEW NYLON plug (they come in 2 set)
NYLON has HIGH temp rating (400*F) and is softer then the aluminum so it's threads will be damaged vs the aluminum drain hole threads.

Element size is a 1 1/2" ----use a thin walled 6 point socket with extension.
Those 'element tools work IF you have ROOM and don't need to crank on it to loosen element.

Although I figured it may be on back side, I did know for sure, WHO would know the answer!

To prevent this happening again, line up the kids, ask which one was fooling with that switch!! NOPE, wasn't one of them!!:B

Jerry