Fiberglass siding question (updated 12-30-15)
Well once again I come to the experts for some insights and advise. Before I start I want to say this question is for specific insights into the problem I'm having. I need specific suggestions for ...
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Y-Guy thanks for asking. I was affair my post above was too long to add that information, but since you ask – here goes.
My Weekend Warrior is listed as a 2006 FSC2800 (with almost all options) but I’ve always considered it as a 2005 build. Jim explained that it was a common practice to build the floor about a foot wider than the outriggers of the stock frame (this was true of all manufactures). Over the years this unsupported area will sag down and this bows the flooring into an arc. The interior of the unit will show signs of this arcing at the wheel wells and cabinets by pulling away from their mountings. This is seen as gaps between the floor and wheel wells or space between the cabinets and walls. (I didn’t see this in my unit).
In my unit I found my main entry door would sometimes stick. You could see the flooring roll downward from about a foot inside the door to the edge of the doorway floor trim. My forward pass through doors were also sticking. None of these issues rose to the level of causing a concern as I believed they just needed to be adjusted after 10 years of lots of road use. The front passenger/front cap separation was due to the downward shift of the floor.
The repairs consisted of jacking up the frame into proper alignment and re-enforcing it as needed. Re-position the flooring back to the proper height (Frame to floor relationship) and then building new out riggers to support the outside edge of the floors around the whole perimeter of the trailer. We also doubled checked the axle alignment while the frame was in the frame jig.
The split seam that caused me to seek help in the first place was found to be dry and the wood still good. The seam was re-enforced, glued, and screwed back into place. The trim was cleaned and re-installed.
The interior had the wheel wells and cabinets removed. The cabinet frames were re-enforced and re-secured to the walls. The wheel wells were also done the same way. The main door and front cabinets were adjusted and the trim re-secured as needed. The whole frame was repainted and I had my whole roof resealed.
One vent cap was replaced and a handful of trim and cosmetic issues were corrected (these were routine wear & tear from age).
I know the real question is “What did all that cost?” I won’t list that here. If you want that answer send me a PM and I’ll reply.
My Weekend Warrior is listed as a 2006 FSC2800 (with almost all options) but I’ve always considered it as a 2005 build. Jim explained that it was a common practice to build the floor about a foot wider than the outriggers of the stock frame (this was true of all manufactures). Over the years this unsupported area will sag down and this bows the flooring into an arc. The interior of the unit will show signs of this arcing at the wheel wells and cabinets by pulling away from their mountings. This is seen as gaps between the floor and wheel wells or space between the cabinets and walls. (I didn’t see this in my unit).
In my unit I found my main entry door would sometimes stick. You could see the flooring roll downward from about a foot inside the door to the edge of the doorway floor trim. My forward pass through doors were also sticking. None of these issues rose to the level of causing a concern as I believed they just needed to be adjusted after 10 years of lots of road use. The front passenger/front cap separation was due to the downward shift of the floor.
The repairs consisted of jacking up the frame into proper alignment and re-enforcing it as needed. Re-position the flooring back to the proper height (Frame to floor relationship) and then building new out riggers to support the outside edge of the floors around the whole perimeter of the trailer. We also doubled checked the axle alignment while the frame was in the frame jig.
The split seam that caused me to seek help in the first place was found to be dry and the wood still good. The seam was re-enforced, glued, and screwed back into place. The trim was cleaned and re-installed.
The interior had the wheel wells and cabinets removed. The cabinet frames were re-enforced and re-secured to the walls. The wheel wells were also done the same way. The main door and front cabinets were adjusted and the trim re-secured as needed. The whole frame was repainted and I had my whole roof resealed.
One vent cap was replaced and a handful of trim and cosmetic issues were corrected (these were routine wear & tear from age).
I know the real question is “What did all that cost?” I won’t list that here. If you want that answer send me a PM and I’ll reply.
