Fiberglass restoration questions

I used mop and glow on my 2000 hurricane and it made it look great. Make sure that a) you get it really clean, and B) watch out for runs. Others will use ZEP which is supposed to be better but I went with the mop and glow. It is not a once and done as you will need to reapply every now then. You can extend the time by applying a spray on uv protection like Areospace 303. Overall I was very pleased with the results.

Hi--have used ZEP wet look floor finish (from Home Depot/Lowes) for the past five years and have recommended it to others. Prepping for application is the hardest part, but the ZEP holds up quite well for about two years then you have to strip it off (with floor wax remover--not a bad job but takes time) then re-apply. Lots of folks out there swear by it.

I use Jasco conditioner or phosphoric acid (diluted) on surfaces to remove oxidation. There is no scrubbing involved. Both will degloss the surface so if you want your RV shiny, apply a sealing wax after.

I have also started using liquid Parfe wax on surfaces (haven't hit the RV yet but will). It is also a no-work-involved treatment. Dilute some in a garden sprayer and spray it on--done. It has made my snowblowers--nonstick.

Once you restore it. You have to protect it with wax. If not. It just goes back to where it was. So after you do in again. Put some good wax on it. You would want to wax it twice a year now that it has been restored. Pretty easy to do.

At one time it was my job to restore fiberglass / gelcoat. A good paste wax after compounding, or water sanding is always the best thing to do, and if you keep it waxed. Not only will the shine stay, But it will be easier to wax every time.

Had good results with Sea Power cleaner wax. Used it on a sailboat for years and now on the 5th wheel. A 6" Ryobi random orbital buffer makes quick work of application and buffing.

Poly Glo is another gelcoat/fiberglass products that works well. Cleaning the surface is the hardest part of the application. Once that is done just apply the Poly Glo with a sponge pad in alternating vertical and horizontal applications. Then once a year apply one coat to keep it good.

The 3m restorer I used had wax in it, but, I guess I needed to do a better job of maintaining it. (wax more often) Just looking for a better way. What would be the best wax to use ?

I have used an acrylic polish on my old fiberglass boat for years - it is a 1990 model, and the original gelcoat gloss was totally oxidized beyond buffing out, and I started using the "specialized" acrylic polishes (Newglas, Polyglo, etc.). They have the same active ingredient as the ZEP, but supposedly also include UV protection and other stuff to make them suitable for outdoor use and better protection of fiberglas. The problem with my boat is that it spends its life in salt water, the the horizon surfaces (the deck) take a real beating. While the topsides of the hull hold the shine well, the deck takes direct sun, and the coating needs to be renewed every spring. A few years ago, I started using ZEP on the deck instead of the high priced spread. Actually, it works out better on the deck than the pricey ones as it doesn't last as long. I have to renew it every spring no matter what I use, and the ZEP scrubs off much easier when I redo it. Our trailer is new enough that a good coat of quality wax once a year keeps it looking good, but when it finally oxidizes to the point that I give up waxing, I will probably go with one of the premium polishes to make sure it holds up the longest.

It really depends upon how oxidized the surface is. For a 2008 in your signature I would use a compound then a good paste wax to bring back the surface. I did this on mine until it was 16 years old and it would no longer hold a shine, then I went to the Zeps and has held up for about 4 years. I have redone the front cap because of the bug removal but the sides have held up with a good shine for 4 years and no yellowing or peeling. The Zeps will not adhere well and will peel off a shiny surface but adhere well to a oxidized surface. If you a young enough with good shoulders I would use a buffing machine and compound and wax to try to restore the surface first before using the Zeps.

OK, so, if you don't use Zep until the oxidation is really bad then what does the surface look like then ?

hellbird503 wrote:
OK, so, if you don't use Zep until the oxidation is really bad then what does the surface look like then ?

The surface will be dull and chalky if it is white gel coat and not full body paint. When you wash the surface the water should not form beads on the surface.