Forum Discussion
- BillzoExplorerRegarding the pump failing to not prime. I had the same problem when I tried for the first time to winterize my trailer. I installed the Camco winterizing kit which is a T setup with a hose that goes to the gallon container. I had to pour antifreeze into the tube and have it run down to the pump. Eventually the pump membrane caught some fluid and it began to pump on its own.
- KKELLER14KExplorer IIThe lines and unions are usually pretty tough...it is the hard plastic fixtures that will fail...they just can't flex enough...
- djousmaExplorerI hope you don't have any other freeze damage....this could be the tip of the iceberg so to speak. The worst will be if there are split water lines inside a wall somewhere. Your upcoming trip questionable.....you may have many more surprises awaiting you. If it were me, after your trip, get your trailer to a RV dealer, and have them warm it up, and test everything for you, then properly winterize it, and then you will be good until spring.
- barchetta1Explorer
KKELLER14K wrote:
I just caught that fact...crossing my fingers for you...lol...but seriously don't run on your batteries if you don't have to. Those faucets are cheap fixes...the toilet valve not so much...but yes be prepared. Do you have a wet bath? not so bad but water on a dry bath floor is a nightmare...ask me how I know...not so lol. Just Google it.. look up that heater buddy you will see what I mean...not to expensive a fix for your situation. Pay very close attention to that outside shower valve because if it breaks behind it... it can flood your interior compartment space..no place for the water to go just be ready to shut the pump off. When my valves broke they at least they leaked into the sinks and not underneath. The toilet...another story.
I just went and shutdown the furnace. I agree on the outdoor shower. I have learned a lot thru this little episode.
Im planning for the worst when we hook the water up (thursday).. I have a really nice water regulator so I can bring up the pressure slowly and keep inspecting the faucets.. Im a little worried about compression connections.. going to investigate cures for that as well..
I think an emergency plumbing kit is a great idea to have. - KKELLER14KExplorer III just caught that fact...crossing my fingers for you...lol...but seriously don't run on your batteries if you don't have to. Those faucets are cheap fixes...the toilet valve not so much...but yes be prepared. Do you have a wet bath? not so bad but water on a dry bath floor is a nightmare...ask me how I know...not so lol. Just Google it.. look up that heater buddy you will see what I mean...not to expensive a fix for your situation. Pay very close attention to that outside shower valve because if it breaks behind it... it can flood your interior compartment space..no place for the water to go just be ready to shut the pump off. When my valves broke they at least they leaked into the sinks and not underneath. The toilet...another story.
- barchetta1Explorer
KKELLER14K wrote:
What a bummer...do the best you can. Only the spring will tell as you get everything up and running. Here is another possible thing you could do since you don't have shore power (I will probably get thrown under the bus here but it beats breaking something)....just buy one of those little buddy heaters and hook it up in the middle of the floor, connect to a lp tank, slightly crack your roof vents and run it. No one is inside just disable your co detector so it doesn't go off, and visit each day. IMHO anything to get some heat in there... and since you have no power these little guys put out a lot of heat and use no power...just a thought.
Furnace is running now and we leave for a 4 day trip thursday... so it wont be until spring :)
I have another post about replacing the toilet... and Im probably order the shower, bath sink, kitchen sink and outside shower faucets..
I should be covered. - KKELLER14KExplorer IIWhat a bummer...do the best you can. Only the spring will tell as you get everything up and running. Here is another possible thing you could do since you don't have shore power, you don't want to kill your batteries running a fan. (I will probably get thrown under the bus here but it beats breaking something)....just buy one of those little buddy heaters and hook it up in the middle of the floor, connect to a lp tank, slightly crack your roof vents and run it. No one is inside just disable your co detector so it doesn't go off, and visit each day. IMHO anything to get some heat in there... and since you have no power these little guys put out a lot of heat and use no power...just a thought.
- barchetta1Explorer
2oldman wrote:
barchetta1 wrote:
Are you running it now? That's about your only hope at this point. Get that sucker warmed up.
EDIT: why I didnt run the lp heater is beyond me.. I guess I was thinking it would be dangerous but thats silly.
Yes.. its running. been on for almost 3 hours. its not supposed to get freezing tonight..
Im going to try and use the pump to pull anifreeze thru the drain tubes but I seriously doubt it will prime. It seems my unit is designed to do this via the tank.
I did press the toilet valve and I could actually hear water move.. good sign I guess.
Already some damage though.. went to pull the sink sprayer out and it came right off the fitting. I pressed it back on and it stayed. also tried to blow into the hose.. nothing.. with the sink on of course.
not good...
Already determined which toilet valve I have :) - 2oldmanExplorer II
barchetta1 wrote:
Are you running it now? That's about your only hope at this point. Get that sucker warmed up.
EDIT: why I didnt run the lp heater is beyond me.. I guess I was thinking it would be dangerous but thats silly. - artmanExplorer
RAS43 wrote:
barchetta1 wrote:
Drains are no where long enough to get into a jug of anti freeze.. I need an adapter.. and why there are two I dont know.. they are right below the outdoor shower.. maybe they are just for the shower.. I dont know.
There should be 1 drain for the cold line and 1 for hot.
Like RAS43 said two drains but you don't need to get a jug of anti freeze close to them.
Might want to level the trailer also so these two drains are at a low point.
Most likely you have a valve that switches the pump from using the tank to a hose that goes nowhere.
Close all the faucets and drain vales.
Turn on the water heater bypass valve ( no reason to put anti freeze in it since you have drained it).
Put the hose in the jug and run the pump.
Run each faucet and drain until you see anti freeze.
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