Forum Discussion

RobWNY's avatar
RobWNY
Explorer
May 05, 2018

Fresh Water Fill new 5th Wheel Questions

On my new 5th wheel, there isn't a gravity fill. It only has the type of connection that a garden hose needs to be attached in order to fill the tank. I can't find any overfill or vent safeguard so how am I supposed to know when the tank is full? Going back and forth between the fill area and the inside monitor doesn't seem right and those monitors aren't all that accurate anyway. Or does the water just stop going in the tank when it's full. Also, How would you fill the tanks using containers if you are boondocking? Do I need to get some sort of pump and do a mod? Here's a picture of what the connection looks like. Thanks in advance!

  • I found the overflow tube. The fill is in the front on the street side of the camper and the overflow tube is near the rear of the camper on the curb side but I still have no idea where the vent would be. I am noticing that the overflow continues to drip and it's been 30 minutes since I've been done filling the tank. I've read that some people will put a cap on that tube but I'm afraid I will forget to remove it and then have a real problem if I over fill the tank. Anyone have any idea about that? It's not a fast drip. I mean I'm not worried at the rate of the drip that I would lose all my water that way but I can see where it will always be wet under there while camping.
  • I think it would have to have a vent somewhere to keep the tank from creating a vacuum when using your pump.
    Look on the outside of the trailer near the tank. May be a small almost square protrusion. Mine slips off by pushing it upward. Then slips back on when I'm finished sanitizing.
    Turn the water on with a low volume and see where it comes out.
  • Thanks everyone. There must be an overflow hose or valve somewhere. Maybe under the 5th wheel. I read that on some campers there's a piece of braided hose sticking out under there. I'll have to crawl under it and take a look. I see Harborfreight sells a 12V pump for around $40. Cheap enough to give that a try. I had bought one of those drill pumps for $10 for when we boondock but that isn't going to work. It took 30 minutes to put 20 gallons of water into the tank and it used up the entire 20v battery. I guess my first mod is happening this weekend! I don't want to spend an hour filling a water tank!
  • Toolguy5 wrote:
    Mine had an overflow that I could not find either. But the first time I filled it I found as water started coming out.

    On my 5th wheel Heartland, I have the same fresh water filler. When the fresh water tank is full, water will just will just start coming out onto the ground. The fresh water tank will not over fill inside the dRV. If you wanted a more u way to determine/measure how long it will take to fill your tank, get an empty gallon containter and time how long it takes to fill it. Multiply that by how many gallons your fresh water tank capacity. With my 70 gallon tank, it usually takes 10 to 15 min. to fill it up. The water just start gurgling out to the ground when the tank is full.
  • Someone with similar system will have the answer, but for water to go in, air must go out. There has to be a vent, or overflow somewhere. I use a 12 volt RV water pump (a spare) to fill from containers to my gravity fill. I have a small jump starter type battery pack to power it. I put one short hose in container, and another in the fill. This would work for you when boondocking, you'd just need your longer hose to have the threaded end.

    Jerry
  • Mine had an overflow that I could not find either. But the first time I filled it I found as water started coming out.
  • Our trailer does not have gravity fill either. However it does have a "country fill" setting in the valve arrangement where it uses the onboard water pump to pump water into your tank. While it does work it is a real pain in the rear and I feel a ridiculous process to go through. At least on our trailer I have to clear out whatever I have in the storage area so that I can remove the bulkhead wall to get to the valve assemblies turn them the right way and then pump away then reverse the process to put it all back together.
    Takes what should be a simple 5 minute job into significantly longer. To in essence save nothing in costs on the trailer but it did add to user aggravation though